Chamlang | 1987 NE Ridge-E Summit

A USA expedition to Chamlang in 1987 via NE Ridge-E Summit, led by Richard Hartshorne. Summit reached on 2nd May 1987. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 251
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHAM87101
Peak ID CHAM
Year 1987
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge-E Summit
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Richard Hartshorne
Sponsor American Chamlang Expedition of the Juilliard Mountain Club
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Hile->Tumlingtar->Sedua->Shershon
Basecamp Date 1987-04-19
Summit Date 1987-05-02
Summit Time -
Summit Days 13
Total Days 24
Termination Date 1987-05-13
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6750m due to Deak's frostbite
High Point (m) 6750
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(19/04,4700m),C1(26/04,5600m),Biv(30/04,6500m),xxx(02/05,6750m)
Route Notes BC near Shershon C1 above major and minor icefalls where Chamlung Glacier meets Lower Barun (base of North Face) Biv in ice cave in crevasse. Took 3 carries to C1 which was difficult, dangerous and hard to find. "Incredible icefall" at gate between Chamlang and Peak 4. Between BC and C1-C2 avalanche slopes with hanging glaciers above route in this area. All climbing of N Face to ridge done on 30th April in 12 hours to small crevasse bivouac which gave protection from wind (had not carried tent, for reducing weight). Now late in afternoon and exhausted and one day from summit. Planned to eat and rehydrate on 1st May and go to top on 2nd; on afternoon of 30th spent most time sleeping and didn't eat. 3 am 2nd began ascent but weather deteriorating and Deak's toes had started freezing; at 5:30 got to 6750m, turned back in bad storm, paused at ice cave, then on down to C1. 4th went back up but Deak soon realized he could not go on: fell twice from "depletion" of strength and turned back at about 5800m. 4 days at BC but Deak could barely walk from frostbitten toes. Still went up to C1 to recover gear with some hope of continuing climb with Hartshorne. Down to BC on 11th and left BC 13th. Route made left of Scott 1985 route but essentially same.
Accidents Deak frostbitten toes (which should heal completely)
Achievement -
Agency Nepal Himalaya
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452190
Year 1987
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge-e summit

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jon Deak M 1943 USA Climber New York, New York Musician Details Other expeditions
Richard A. Hartshorne M 1943 USA Leader East Sullivan, New Hampshire Musician Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHAM87101 AAJ Hartshorne, Richard (Dobbs) - - 62:195 (1988) -
CHAM87101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198819501/Asia-Nepal-Chamlang-East-Attempt - - -