Chamlang | 1986 W Ridge-SW Face

A Japan expedition to Chamlang in 1986 via W Ridge-SW Face, led by Akio Shinya. Summit reached on 16th October 1986. 14 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 905
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHAM86302
Peak ID CHAM
Year 1986
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge-SW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Akio Shinya
Sponsor Japan College of Dairying Chamlang Climbing Expedition 1986
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 3rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-09-22
Summit Date 1986-10-16
Summit Time 1200
Summit Days 24
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7321
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 13
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(22/09,4750m),C1(27/09,5600m),C2(02/10,6100m),C3(09/10,6600m),Smt(16/10)
Route Notes BC at Hunku Khola C1 on moraine C2 on West Ridge C3 on West Ridge. All knife ridge from C1 to C3. Last part summit very dangerous W Face because very steep. Climbed couloir on face (were on couloir on W Face from C3 to summit). 4000m fixed rope from 5450m to C3 because beginners in Himalaya. 28-9 Sept much snowfell so all waited in BC for 2 days. Shinya sure his expedition and Koreans reached highest summit.
Accidents Ongel and Dawa Sherpa slight frostbite; nothing else
Achievement -
Agency Jai Himal Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451991
Year 1986
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge-sw face

Members

14 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Akio Kawamura M 1938 Japan Exp Doctor Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Shigeo Kita M 1960 Japan Climber Yamoto, Koriyama, Japan Salesman Details Other expeditions
Osamu Kushimi M 1961 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Student Details Other expeditions
Hidetoshi Naeki M 1949 Japan Climber Azuimura, Japan Pension (lodge) owner Details Other expeditions
Takashi Nakamura M 1956 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Veterinarian Details Other expeditions
Sinri Rinoie M 1964 Japan Climber Ebetsu, Hokkaido, Japan Student Details Other expeditions
Akio Shinya M 1947 Japan Leader Niseko, Hokkaido, Japan Ski lodge owner Details Other expeditions
Yoshiaki Shiroki M 1962 Japan Climber Ebetsu, Hokkaido, Japan Student Details Other expeditions
Kenji Suzuki M 1959 Japan Climber Yokohama, Japan Veterinarian Details Other expeditions
Takashi Tsuyama M 1957 Japan Climber Ebetsu, Hokkaido, Japan Food-packing company employee Details Other expeditions
Tatsuro Wani M 1963 Japan Climber Ebetsu, Hokkaido, Japan Student Details Other expeditions
Kiyohiro Yanagida M 1957 Japan Climber Kobe, Hyogo, Japan Travel agent Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Yuki M 1960 Japan Climber Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Salesman Details Other expeditions
Wangel (Ongel) Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHAM86302 AAJ Shinya, Akio - - 61:227 (1987) -
CHAM86302 MM - - - 114:12 (Mar 1987) -
CHAM86302 IWA - - - :269 (1987) -
CHAM86302 IWA - - - :53 (1987) -
CHAM86302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198722701/Asia-Nepal-Chamlang-West-Ridge - - -