Chamlang | 1984 N Face-NE Ridge-E Smt

A UK expedition to Chamlang in 1984 via N Face-NE Ridge-E Smt, led by Doug Scott. Summit reached on 16th May 1984. 15 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1563
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHAM84101
Peak ID CHAM
Year 1984
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face-NE Ridge-E Smt
Route 2 N Face-NE Ridge-Central Smt
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Doug Scott
Sponsor Makalu 1984
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st of E Smt
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries France, Ireland, Switzerland, USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1984-04-19
Summit Date 1984-05-16
Summit Time -
Summit Days 27
Total Days 31
Termination Date 1984-05-20
Termination Reason 2
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7290m due to snow and ice and far distance to main summit; East & Central Smt only
High Point (m) 7290
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 12
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Baruntse (BARU-841-02) and Shershon Northwest (SHNW-841-01), attempted Makalu (MAKA-841-03)
Campsites BC(19/04,4700m),Biv1(12/05,5600m),Biv2(14/05,6500m),Biv3(15/05,7200m),Biv4(16/05,6600m),E-Smt(16/05,7290m)
Route Notes Scott's party and another (Hall, Brooks, Mooney, Sustad and 2 Sherpas) because separated. Hall, Brookes and Sustad reached 6900m when Hall hit by ice block and they had to turn back. Did not go to main summit because it was too far away. Chamlang climb was primarily a warm up for Makalu. "Quite technical" below 3rd bivouac - snow and ice. Scott - 13 June 84 5600m 1st camp (successful team) 6500m 2nd camp 7200m 3rd camp 6600m 4th on way down Quite technical below 3rd camp. Scottish grade 2 & 3 snow and ice. Led by Michael Scott. 5-day round trip from BC at 16,000 ft to BC. Did not go to highest summit because too far away; did climb as warm up for Makalu. Brian Hall - 27 May 84 Chamlang: After rest at BC back to ABC on 12 May; from ABC on 14 May; from ABC on 14 May up ice face to 6200m (face south of Chamlang Glacier) - North Face of East Summit point 7290m by 2 teams. 1) Doug and M Scott, Afanassieff and Ang Phurba 2) Brookes, Sustad, Mooney, Hall, Pasang and Saila 15 May 2) went to 6700m (just west of point 6705m) and bivouacked while Jean to biv at about 7000m (east of pt 7290m) 16 May 1) to pt 7290m = East Summit at 8:30 am intended to traverse to point Scott and Messner reached in 1981 but Scott mistook which col for descent and went down a north face which took them to night of 17th to get off of. Extremely difficult descent and Ang Phurba did very well in such an alpine climb; as difficult as descending North Face of Eiger Doug and Jean reported. In dark of 17th returned to ABC. 2) Mooney developed snowblindness during night of 15/16 May; May 16th am was completely blind and in great pain. 2 Sherpas did not want to go on. Hall, Brookes and Sustad set off for East Summit intending not to traverse but return way they came. They reached steep part of ridge between 6800-7000m with Sustad in lead when he knocked block of ice off which hit Hall on head and knocked him out for few seconds. Hall didn't feel well and decided to go down. Sustad and Brookes helped him to biv where Mooney and Sherpas were. Then Mooney, Hall and 2 Sherpas were lowered down face on ropes to 6200m. 17 May Hall better. Mooney lowered while Hall escorted Sherpas down - got to ABC finally. 18 May all to BC. Hall, Bruce and Higgins left BC 20 May. 3 Sherpa listed on permit as members since Chamlang requires joint expeditions until first success.
Accidents Hall hit on head by ice block causing concussion; Mooney was snowblinded
Achievement Reached East and Central Summits only
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference True
Primary ID MAKA84103
Checksum 2451106
Year 1984
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face-ne ridge-e smt

Members

15 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jean Afanassieff M 1953 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Colin (Choe) Brookes M 1954 UK Climber Oldham, Lancashire, England Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Larry V. Bruce M 1951 USA Climber Aspen, Colorado Mountaineering equipment salesman Details Other expeditions
Richard Chaplin M 1963 UK Climber Nottingham, E Midlands, England Electrician Details Other expeditions
James Fullalove M 1946 UK Climber Bradford, England Builder Details Other expeditions
Arianne-Simone Giobellina F 1951 Switzerland Climber Leysin, Vaud, Switzerland Secretary Details Other expeditions
Marilyn (Molly) Higgins F 1950 USA Climber Aspen, Colorado Medical technician Details Other expeditions
Terry Mooney M 1948 Ireland Climber Belfast, Northern Ireland Barrister Details Other expeditions
Douglas Keith (Doug) Scott M 1941 UK Leader Hesket Newmarket, Cumbria, England Alpinist & writer Details Other expeditions
Michael Scott M 1963 UK Climber Hesket Newmarket, Cumbria, England Joiner (carpenter) Details Other expeditions
Stephen F. Sustad M 1960 USA Climber Edmonds, Washington Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Brian P. Hall M 1951 UK Climber Hayfield, Derbyshire, England Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ang Phurba Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker/Climber Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker/Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Phurba (Saila) Tamang M - Nepal H-A Worker/Climber - - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.