Chamlang | 1981 N Face-Middle Smt

A Italy expedition to Chamlang in 1981 via N Face-Middle Smt, led by Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott. Summit reached on 26th September 1981. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field	Value
ID	1779
Imported	2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID	CHAM81301
Peak ID	CHAM
Year	1981
Season	3
Host Country	1
Route 1	N Face-Middle Smt
Route 2	-
Route 3	-
Route 4	-
Nationality	Italy
Leaders	Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott
Sponsor	Messner Himalayan Expedition to Makalu
Success 1	False
Success 2	False
Success 3	False
Success 4	False
Ascent 1	1st of Middle Smt
Ascent 2	-
Ascent 3	-
Ascent 4	-
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Countries	Nepal, Switzerland, UK
Approach	Tumlingtar->Lower Barun Glacier->Chamlang BC
Basecamp Date	1981-09-13
Summit Date	1981-09-26
Summit Time	-
Summit Days	13
Total Days	20
Termination Date	1981-10-03
Termination Reason	3
Termination Notes	-
High Point (m)	7050
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Camps	1
Fixed Rope (m)	0
Total Members	7
Summit Members	0
Member Deaths	0
Total Hired	2
Summit Hired	0
Hired Deaths	0
No Hired	False
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Taken	False
O2 Unknown	False
Other Summits	Had permit for Makalu (MAKA-813-03)
Campsites	BC(13/09,4800m),C1(23/09,5300m),ABC(24/09,6000m),Biv(25/09,6550m),MiddleSmt(26/09,7050m)
Route Notes	Messner - 7 Oct 81 Left BC 3rd Oct Climbed Chamlang from North Face to middle summit about 7000m on about 26 Sept: Ang Dorje Sirdar Pasang Doug Scott Reinhold Messner Left BC 13 Sept Arrived C1 23 Sept Arrived ABC 24 Sept Mid-summit and back to ABC - 26 Sept ABC to East Col and below 27th returned BC 28th. Doug is trying SE Ridge of Makalu starting about 15 Oct with a Sherpa or Alex MacIntyre if West Face not possible. Reinhold left BC because of unhappy letters from Nena. Ang Dorje and Nawang Tenzing came with him. With weather bad at end of Sept and acclimatization needed, wouldn't have been able to do Makalu and returned KTM before late Oct. "I have time" to try Makalu same other time. Doug Scott - 28 Aug 81 Chamlang & Makalu Chamlang: ABC 5600-5800m in Chamlang Glacier, thence alpine style with fixed rope. 4 days ABC to top and 1 day back to ABC. Depends on snow conditions, might be a bit powdery. Messner joins Chamlang climb. Arrive BC 12-13 Sept, 15,700 ft. Arrive Chamlang ABC about 15 Sept and start climb about 20 Sept. Start Makalu in early Oct from BC and climb in 12 days. BC to top by southeast and down to BC. May descend by northwest side thus doing traverse of Makalu. Messner - 28 Aug 81 Not decided about Sherpas above BC on Makalu - will see. No oxygen at all. 3 Sherpa members for Chamlang and 2 H-A Sherpa porters with expedition.
Accidents	-
Achievement	Reached a middle summit only
Agency	-
Commercial Route	-
Standard Route	-
Primary Route	False
Primary Member	False
Primary Reference	-
Primary ID	-
Checksum	2450140
Year	1981
Summit Success	False
O2 Summary	None
Route (lowercase)	n face-middle smt

Members

Field	Value
ID	4021
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	CHAM81301
Member ID	01
Peak ID	CHAM
Year	1981
Season	3
First Name	Reinhold
Last Name	Messner
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1944
Calculated Age	36
Citizenship	Italy
Status	Leader
Residence	Villnoss, Bolzano, Italy
Occupation	Alpinist & author of climbing books
Leader	True
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	7050
Summit Date 1	1981-09-26
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	Climbed to Middle Smt
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	2
HCN	0
Checksum	2429446
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	reinhold messner
Year of Birth	1944
Year	1981
Age at Expedition	37
Role	Leader

Field	Value
ID	4022
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	CHAM81301
Member ID	04
Peak ID	CHAM
Year	1981
Season	3
First Name	Douglas Keith (Doug)
Last Name	Scott
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1941
Calculated Age	40
Citizenship	UK
Status	Climber
Residence	Nottingham, E Midlands, England
Occupation	Professional alpinist
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	7050
Summit Date 1	1981-09-26
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	Climbed to Middle Smt
Necrology	(1941-2020) Died 7 Dec 2020
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	2
HCN	0
Checksum	2428242
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	douglas keith (doug) scott
Year of Birth	1941
Year	1981
Age at Expedition	40
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	28262
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	CHAM81301
Member ID	07
Peak ID	CHAM
Year	1981
Season	3
First Name	Pasang
Last Name	Sherpa
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	-
Calculated Age	0
Citizenship	Nepal
Status	Climber/Sirdar
Residence	-
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	True
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	7050
Summit Date 1	1981-09-26
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	Climbed to Middle Smt
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	2
HCN	0
Checksum	39
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	pasang sherpa
Year of Birth	-
Year	1981
Age at Expedition	-
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	28263
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	CHAM81301
Member ID	05
Peak ID	CHAM
Year	1981
Season	3
First Name	Ang Dorje
Last Name	Sherpa
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	-
Calculated Age	32
Citizenship	Nepal
Status	Climber
Residence	Thamo, Khumbu
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	True
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	7050
Summit Date 1	1981-09-26
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	Climbed to Middle Smt
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	2
HCN	0
Checksum	39
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	ang dorje sherpa
Year of Birth	-
Year	1981
Age at Expedition	-
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	28437
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	CHAM81301
Member ID	06
Peak ID	CHAM
Year	1981
Season	3
First Name	Mingma
Last Name	Sherpa
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	-
Calculated Age	0
Citizenship	Nepal
Status	Climber
Residence	-
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	True
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	7
HCN	0
Checksum	39
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	mingma sherpa
Year of Birth	-
Year	1981
Age at Expedition	-
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	28438
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	CHAM81301
Member ID	03
Peak ID	CHAM
Year	1981
Season	3
First Name	Arianne-Simone
Last Name	Giobellina
Sex	F
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1951
Calculated Age	30
Citizenship	Switzerland
Status	Member
Residence	La Citronelle, Leysin, Switzerland
Occupation	Secretary
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	True
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	17
HCN	0
Checksum	2431986
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	arianne-simone giobellina
Year of Birth	1951
Year	1981
Age at Expedition	30
Role	BC Only

Field	Value
ID	28439
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	CHAM81301
Member ID	02
Peak ID	CHAM
Year	1981
Season	3
First Name	Elaine
Last Name	Brook
Sex	F
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1949
Calculated Age	32
Citizenship	UK
Status	Member
Residence	Peterchurch, Hereford, England
Occupation	Travel company director
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	True
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	17
HCN	0
Checksum	2431150
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	elaine brook
Year of Birth	1949
Year	1981
Age at Expedition	32
Role	BC Only

7 recorded members.

Name	Sex	Year of Birth	Citizenship	Status	Residence	Occupation
Reinhold Messner	M	1944	Italy	Leader	Villnoss, Bolzano, Italy	Alpinist & author of climbing books	Details Other expeditions
Douglas Keith (Doug) Scott	M	1941	UK	Climber	Nottingham, E Midlands, England	Professional alpinist	Details Other expeditions
Pasang Sherpa	M	-	Nepal	Climber/Sirdar	-	-	Details Other expeditions
Ang Dorje Sherpa	M	-	Nepal	Climber	Thamo, Khumbu	-	Details Other expeditions
Mingma Sherpa	M	-	Nepal	Climber	-	-	Details Other expeditions
Arianne-Simone Giobellina	F	1951	Switzerland	Member	La Citronelle, Leysin, Switzerland	Secretary	Details Other expeditions
Elaine Brook	F	1949	UK	Member	Peterchurch, Hereford, England	Travel company director	Details Other expeditions

References

Field	Value
ID	1869
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	CHAM81301
Reference ID	01
Year	1981
Type	2
Journal	AAJ
Author	Scott, Douglas
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1982
Language	-
Citation	56:208-210 (1982)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	3981
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	CHAM81301
Reference ID	02
Year	1981
Type	3
Journal	MM
Author	-
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1982
Language	-
Citation	83:10 (Jan 1982)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	12857
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	CHAM81301
Reference ID	03
Year	1981
Type	5
Journal	-
Author	-
Title	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198220803/Asia-Nepal-Chamlangs-P-7010
Publisher	-
Publication Date	-
Language	-
Citation	-
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID	Journal	Author	Title	Publisher	Citation	Yak 94
CHAM81301	AAJ	Scott, Douglas	-	-	56:208-210 (1982)	-
CHAM81301	MM	-	-	-	83:10 (Jan 1982)	-
CHAM81301	-	-	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198220803/Asia-Nepal-Chamlangs-P-7010	-	-	-