Chamlang | 2021 N Pillar

A France expedition to Chamlang in 2021 via N Pillar, led by Damien Tomasi. Summit reached on 11th October 2021. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10683
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHAM21302
Peak ID CHAM
Year 2021
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Pillar
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Damien Tomasi
Sponsor French Chamlang N Pillar Expedition 2021
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Phaplu by Jeep->Kharikola->Khare->Mera Peak for acclimatization->Mera La
Basecamp Date 2021-10-04
Summit Date 2021-10-11
Summit Time -
Summit Days 7
Total Days 12
Termination Date 2021-10-16
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned on 2nd day due to dangerous snow conditions and slow progress
High Point (m) 6100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Mera Peak
Campsites BC(04/10,4970m),C1(10/10,6100m),xxx(11/10,6100m+)
Route Notes Shared BC with Vedrines-Dubouloz N Face team. From Aurelien Vaissiere Facebook page: Symon Welfringer: Coming back from another trip to Nepal, feeling so grateful to have the chance to travel back to this awesome country after the crisis, for sure the future is brighter and this year was an amazing season with a lot of great ascents. Together with @aurel_vassiere, @fanny_schmutz @dam_tomasi, @charles_dubouloz and @benjaminvedrines we went to Chamlang Basecamp in the Hunku valley. Our team of 4 with Aurel, Dam and Fanny was focused on the North Pillar, an awesome line which was our main goal. Sadly, during our attempt, snow conditions were pretty complexe and tricky, and on the second day of our ascent we decided to turn back as we were too slow and thinking the conditions were too dangerous. In the meantime, the strong Duo composed by Benj and Charles made an amazing ascent opening a great climb straight in the middle of the face. This expedition wasn't a success in terms of climbing but an amazing trip together with some really good friends. On the way back, I broke my foot and had to go back to KTM by helicopter, my first flight ever. Report from Fanny Tamasi-Schmutz: Approach: Mera La, Mera Peak for acclimatization BC 04/10 4900m C1 10/10 6100m HPt 11/10 6100m+ (a little further above C1, by all members) Fixed rope: None Climb abandoned on 11 Oct due to snow conditions on Chamlang; injury on Hongku Chuli; lack of time at the end. Left BC on 16 Oct. Oxygen: Not taken, not used. Other peaks: Mera Peak for acclimatization. Details of climb: 07 Oct: the team made an attempt to make a deposit afoot of the little face giving access to the glacier plateau, the latter afoot of the North Pillar. On this day, the large amount of snow in the face made the team return to BC. On this same day, Vedrines and Dubouloz were back from their successful reconnaissance above the rimaye of Chamlang’s North Face. 10 Oct: the team reached the plateau’s C1. 11 Oct: the team went a little further up from C1 towards the attack of the North Pillar. Considering the amount of snow to be too much on the pillar for an attempt (fearing objective risks and trail to break), the team chose to abandon for trying instead Hongku Chuli’s SW Ridge on the next day. 12 Oct: as they were packing for the SW Ridge of Hongku Chuli and as he was working without gloves, Symon Welfringer seriously hurt his thumb with a carbon tent pole which suddenly broke. After some hesitations, the team eventually decided to come back down to BC. 13 Oct: the team watched Vedrines-Dubouloz’s descent final stage and their return to BC. On the last two days (14-15 Oct), as the forecast was announcing 1 meter of fresh snow at BC for the 16 Oct, in that short weather window Vedrines went for his solo on Hongku Chuli.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Pralhad Chapagain (Freelancer at Expes.com)
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2464580
Year 2021
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n pillar

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Damien Jean Tomasi M 1986 France Leader Savoie, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Fanny Louise Tomasi-Schmutz F 1987 France Climber Savoie, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Aurelien Guillaume Vaissiere M 1993 France Climber - Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Symon Gabriel Welfringer M 1993 France Climber Grenoble, Isere, France Engineer in Meteo France Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.