Chamlang | 2019 NW Face (up), S Ridge (down)

A Czech Republic expedition to Chamlang in 2019 via NW Face (up), S Ridge (down), led by Marek Holecek. Summit reached on 21st May 2019. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10161
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHAM19101
Peak ID CHAM
Year 2019
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Face (up), S Ridge (down)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Czech Republic
Leaders Marek Holecek
Sponsor Czech Chamlang Expedition 2019
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 7th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lukla->Namche->Chhukung->Amphu Labtsa->Mera Peak->BC
Basecamp Date 2019-05-10
Summit Date 2019-05-21
Summit Time 1000
Summit Days 11
Total Days 14
Termination Date 2019-05-24
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7321
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Mera Peak (8 May)
Campsites BC(10-16/05,4800m),Biv1(17/05,5600m),Biv2(18/05,6000m),Biv3(19/05,6700m),Biv4(20/05,7250m),Smt(21/05),Biv5(21/05,7000m),Biv6(22/05,6000m)
Route Notes Approach: Flight to Lukla on 29/04, trekking via Namche, Chhukung, Amphu Laptsa Pass, Mera Peak. 10/05-16/05: Base camp at approximately 4800m 16/05: Advanced base camp at 5200m 17/05: Bivy I at 5600m 18/05: Bivy II at 6000m 19/05: Bivy III at 6700m 20/05: Bivy IV at 7250m 21/05: Summit at 10am by both members. Traverse and down to Bivy V at 7000m 22/05: Bivy VI at 6000m 23/05: Back to base camp (4800m) Holecek same day to Khare; Hak stayed at BC. They both met again in Khare on 24/05. 25/05: Trek to Kote 26/05: Trek to Lukla 27/05: Flight to KTM Alpine-style ascent. Found old rusty piton and carabiner near summit at 7000m. Probably from 1962 first ascent. They only took one rope 80m, 7mm. Northwest face mostly 70°, some parts 90°. Some parts good, some parts horrible. First part of NW Face problematic because of rockfall. High objective danger. Second half of face some danger because of seracs. Strong winds coming every day after noon. They only climbed to noon, after that no visibility and too windy. Passage between 6000m and 6700m most difficult. Mixed ground. After that totally committed, no way back. Very sharp summit ridge for 1 km, problematic. Bivy IV located on summit ridge, only 1 hour to summit from there. They started from bivy IV at 9 am. On summit at 10 am. Beautiful view from the summit, very cold. Descent via South Ridge (classic route 1962). Many rappels down, more difficult than expected. Climbing route: Ascent North Face/Northwest Face; descent via South Ridge Oxygen: Not taken, not used. Other peaks: Mera Peak on 08/05.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Green Horizon
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2463839
Year 2019
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw face (up), s ridge (down)

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Marek Holecek M 1974 Czech Republic Leader Prague, Czech Republic Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Zdenek Hak M 1980 Czech Republic Climber Rokytnice nad Jizerou, Czech Republic Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

9 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHAM19101 - - https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/chamlang-ufo-line-marek-holecek-reports-alpine-style-first-ascent-nepal.html - - -
CHAM19101 - - http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web19c/newswire-fa-ufo-chamlang - - -
CHAM19101 - - https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/interview-marek-holecek-on-the-first-ascent-of-the-northwest-face-of-chamlang/ - - -
CHAM19101 - - https://explorersweb.com/2019/06/04/holecek-hak-the-inside-story-of-their-new-route-on-chamlang/ - - -
CHAM19101 - - https://abenteuer-berg.de/en/the-almost-forgotten-chamlang-expedition - - -
CHAM19101 AAJ Hak, Zdenek Chamlang, A Coveted North Face in Finally Climbed - 94:36-43 (2020) -
CHAM19101 - Hak, Zdenek http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215504 - - -
CHAM19101 HJ Holecek, Marek North West Face of Chamlang - 76:232-237 (2021) -
CHAM19101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/76/15/expeditions-explorations/ - - -