Chamlang | 2015 N Face (to 6000m)

A Spain expedition to Chamlang in 2015 via N Face (to 6000m), led by Alberto Inurrategi. Summit reached on 19th October 2015. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 8952
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHAM15301
Peak ID CHAM
Year 2015
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face (to 6000m)
Route 2 W Ridge
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Alberto Inurrategi
Sponsor Chamlang Spanish Expedition 2015
Success 1 False
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 6th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lukla->Kote->Khare->Mera La
Basecamp Date 2015-09-28
Summit Date 2015-10-19
Summit Time 1230
Summit Days 21
Total Days 25
Termination Date 2015-10-23
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7321
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Summited Hongku Peak (HONK-153-01) on 9 Oct
Campsites BC(28/09,5000m),C1(17/10,6100m),C2(18/10,6600m),Smt(19/10)
Route Notes BC 28/09 5000m C1 17/10 6100m C2 18/10 6600m Smt 19/10 by all 3 members. Team acclimatized by summiting Hongku peak via the SW Ridge on 9 Oct from a previous bivouac at 6200m. Checked during 2 weeks conditions on the North Face. Had a try on the east side of the face, after spending a night at 5500m on the 4 Oct the day after reached 6000m at an hanging glacier where they were stopped by bad weather and snow conditions. After that just watched the western part of the face, but considering the apparent continous long difficulties of the route with no proper places for tents, didn't try anything. This despite also considering the route being not too much exposed to potential objective dangers (no hanging seracs there). After 6 days of bad weather, the trio started to climb on the SW Ridge. 17 Oct: from base camp to C1 at 6100m. No difficulties. 18 Oct: roped all day to go on the sharp snowy ridge up to a second biv at 6600m. 19 Oct: after a night in not so good weather conditions, eventually decided to start at 8 am. Meeting some steep pitches, reached the top at 12:30 pm, then were back to sleep at their last camp at 2:30 pm. 2O Oct: all members went back to base camp, reaching it at 4 pm.
Accidents -
Achievement 2nd alpine-style ascent of the W Ridge (last one in 1992)
Agency Prestige Adventure
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2462615
Year 2015
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face (to 6000m)

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Alberto Inurrategi Iriarte M 1968 Spain Leader Aretxabaleta, Guipuzcoa, Spain Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Juan Vallejo Llanos M 1970 Spain Climber Tarragona, Vitoria, Alava, Spain Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Miguel (Mikel) Zabalza Azkona M 1970 Spain Climber Pamplona, Navarra, Spain Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHAM15301 AAJ Popier, Rodolphe - - 90:348-349 (2016) -
CHAM15301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213854/Chamlang-West-Southwest-Ridge-First-Alpine-Style-Ascent - - -
CHAM15301 - - http://www.barrabes.com/actualidad/noticias/2-9586/inurrategi_vallejo_zabalza-cima-chamlang.html - - -