Chamlang | 2012 W Ridge-N Face of Chamlang

A UK expedition to Chamlang in 2012 via W Ridge-N Face of Chamlang, led by Nick Bullock. Summit reached on 26th October 2012. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 7804
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHAM12301
Peak ID CHAM
Year 2012
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge-N Face of Chamlang
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Nick Bullock
Sponsor Chamlang North Face Expedition 2012
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lukla->Mera La->Hunku Valley
Basecamp Date 2012-10-12
Summit Date 2012-10-26
Summit Time -
Summit Days 14
Total Days 34
Termination Date 2012-11-15
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6000m due to strong wind forecast
High Point (m) 6200
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Hunku (HUNK-123-02)
Campsites BC(12/10,5000m),High-Pt.W-Ridge(26/10,6200m),xxx.N-Face(04/11,5700m)
Route Notes The two Britons goal was to make the first ascent of Chamlang's North Face, but first they climbed several heights in the area to acclimatize. They moved as far west as the West Col of Baruntse on 18 October, and even were on the West Ridge of Chamlang itseft from 24 to 26 October. They went 6200m on the ridge. Finally they returned to their BC for their attempt on the North Face on 2 November. They started up the face on 3 November and made their first, and as it turned out, their only bivouac on the face. The next day they reached 5700m on the face, but now fierce wind drove them back to their bivvy for the night and off the mountain the following day, the fifth, as they returned to BC. They actually had not achieved the altitude they had gained on the West Ridge. From the same BC they turned their attention to Mt. Hunku and on the 11th of November, accomplished the first ascent of its East Face from BC to top to BC in a single day, covering 400m of scree and the last 600m of snow and ice to the 6119m summit. They checked the weather forecast on the 12th. It predicted that the strong winds already blowing would increase as they continued to blow. And these were cold winds: -10 degrees Celsius every morning at BC. The team left BC on the 15th.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Loben Expeditions
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2461524
Year 2012
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge-n face of chamlang

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Nicholas Ivor (Nick) Bullock M 1965 UK Leader Wheathampstead, Hertford, England Writer & alpinist Details Other expeditions
Andrew William (Andy) Houseman M 1981 UK Climber Harrogate, N Yorkshire, England Truck driver Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHAM12301 AAJ - - - 87:337-338 (2013) -
CHAM12301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212255/Hunku-6119m-possible-first-ascent-Chamlang-7321m-north-face-attempt - - -