Chako | 2007 SW Ridge

A Japan expedition to Chako in 2007 via SW Ridge, led by Tatsumine Makino. Summit reached on 24th July 2007. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 5750
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHAK07201
Peak ID CHAK
Year 2007
Season 2
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Tatsumine Makino
Sponsor Central Nepal Himalaya Expedition for Mountaineering of Kanagawa
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2007-07-09
Summit Date 2007-07-24
Summit Time 1150
Summit Days 15
Total Days 18
Termination Date 2007-07-27
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6704
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Chulu West summited on 7th Aug by Kamisaka, Kawaura, Nemoto, Omura, Watanabe, Ang Phuri and Prakash Rai
Campsites BC(09/07),C1(13/07,5500m),C2(16/07,6200m),Smt(24/07)
Route Notes Expedition left Kathmandu by bus to Besisahar on 21 June, then trekked up the Marshyangdi River to Nar Gaon and Phu Gaon, and from there continued north to make their base for attempts on Chako and Bhrikuti. They first attempted Chako, and pitched camps as follows: BC - 09 July - about 5000m C1 - 13 July - 5500m on west side on small plateau C2 - 16 July - 6200m on SW Ridge There was a rock band beginning at 6500m and from here the SW Ridge became very steep and narrow. They fixed rope all the way from 5900m to the summit. The summit was reached on 24 July at 11:50 am by Omura, Kamisaka, Ang Phuri Lama and Hari Bahadur Chaulagai. The summit party descended to C2 at 4:00 pm, but at about the same time an avalanche came down and destroyed one of the two tents at the camp. No one was hurt, but the two Nepalis had to go down to BC while the two Japanese slept that night at C2 and descended to BC the next day, the 25th. Meanwhile, Makino had left the expedition on 11 July, when he decided his climb was finished, and Tanaka, who developed pulmonary edema, left the team on 21 July. From BC on 27 July Nemoto, Kuramochi and Ang Phuri went north-northwest to the base of Bhrikuti to look for a route; they gained a little altitude to 5800m on the South Ridge but did no real climbing. They reported that there was too much danger of avalanching on Bhrikuti, so on 29 July the team left BC and retraced their steps southward to Phu Gaon and on the 30th were back in Nar Gaon. They intended now to climb Khumjung. On 1 August, Kamisaka, Omura, Ang Phuri and Prakash Rai went to look for a route and went northwest up Lapso Khola to a point due west of Phu Gaon. Here the Khola was too swollen to cross, so they retreated to Nar Gaon, and it was decided to abandon plans for Khumjung. They cleared BC and trekked to Manang's Hungde airfield on 3 Aug. Now they went to climb the trekking peak, Chulu West. On 4 August moved to Manang village from its west side. They made a new BC at 4900m. They pitched C1 at 5600m and on the 7th Kamisaka, Kawaura, Nemoto, Omura, Watanabe, Ang Phuri and Prakash Rai summited Chulu West via its west ridge and stayed on C1; they down to BC on the 8th and back in Manang village on the 9th. Their net target was Gaugiri. On 12 Aug they crossed the Thorong La to Muktinath. On the 13th from Muktinath to Chhusang village and the east side of the Kali Gandaki River, and from there arrived at Ghumethanti on the 20th. Next day to Damodar Kund lake and on 22nd reached a good campsite in a grassy area at 5300m south of Gaugiri. But by now they were quite tired so rested here for a day and made no climbing attempt. Finally they wanted to go northwest to Arniko Chuli. In Lho Manthang on the 27th, they learned that this was the harvesting season, and the local people believed that if foreigners entered the area, their crops would be ruined. So they abandoned plans for Arniko Chuli and trekked down the Kali Gandaki River to Beni for a bus to Kathmandu. Nepalese climbers: Ang Phuri Lama, sirdar - 60 years old from Beni-3 Hari Bahadur Chaulagai - 26 years old from Makalu-2 Prakash Rai, 31 years old from Makalu-6
Accidents -
Achievement Chako's 1st ascent
Agency Cosmo Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2459553
Year 2007
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kiyoshi Ishii M 1948 Japan Climber Hatano, Kanagawa, Japan Mountain lodge manager Details Other expeditions
Kazhisa Kamisaka M 1971 Japan Climber Sagamihara, Kanagawa, Japan Car factory worker Details Other expeditions
Toshihiko Kawaura M 1944 Japan Deputy Leader Yokohama, Japan Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Takehiko Kuramochi M 1967 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Visitor center staff member Details Other expeditions
Tatsumine Makino M 1944 Japan Leader Chiba-shi, Chiba, Japan Retired electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Hidetsugu Nemoto M 1975 Japan Climber Matsuda, Kanagawa, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Akio Omura M 1963 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Car parts sales engineer Details Other expeditions
Noriharu Tanaka M 1947 Japan Climber Minami-Ashigara, Kanagawa, Japan Retired engineer Details Other expeditions
Takehito Watanabe M 1971 Japan Climber Sagamihara, Kanagawa, Japan Nurse Details Other expeditions
Sawako Yokoyama F 1976 Japan Climber Ashigarakami, Kanagawa, Japan Saleswoman in mountaineering gear shop Details Other expeditions
Ang Phuri Lama M 1948 Nepal H-A Worker Beni-3, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Hari Bahadur Chaulagain M 1971 Nepal H-A Worker Gairigaon, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHAK07201 AAJ Nakamura, Tamotsu & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 82:389-390 (2008) -
CHAK07201 AAJ Griffin, Lindsay - - 83:326-327 (2009) -
CHAK07201 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200838900/Asia-Nepal-Upper-Dolpo-Damodar-Himal-Chako-First-Ascent - - -
CHAK07201 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200932602/Bhrikuti-Base-Camp-Rubbish - - -