Bobaye | 1996 W Face-NW Ridge-NW Face up; W Pillar-W Face down

A Slovenia expedition to Bobaye in 1996 via W Face-NW Ridge-NW Face up; W Pillar-W Face down, led by Roman Robas. Summit reached on 2nd November 1996. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1954
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID BOBA96301
Peak ID BOBA
Year 1996
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face-NW Ridge-NW Face up; W Pillar-W Face down
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Slovenia
Leaders Roman Robas
Sponsor Slovenian Three Peaks Expedition 1996 to Api, Bobaye and Nampa
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1996-10-16
Summit Date 1996-11-02
Summit Time 1300
Summit Days 17
Total Days 24
Termination Date 1996-11-09
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6808
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Api Main (APIM-963-01) and Nampa (NAMP-963-01)
Campsites BC(16/10,3650m),Smt(02/11)
Route Notes One BC for all 3 mountains, but separate depots, which were used also to study routes but not really used as ABC's - climbed 3 mountains, simultaneously after 1 week's snowfall and wind delayed attempts. Bobaye: start of climb at 4300m on West Face: 31 Oct Humar, Jernej and 2 Sherpas from BC to depot/ABC on moraine at 4300m (not same place as 4300m shown in photo). Jernej and 2 Sherpas wanted to climb couloir on south side of West Face and around to East Face but reached only 4700m at bottom of couloir when one Sherpa sick and other didn't like snow, so attempt halted since Sherpas were carrying tents etc; this was on 1 Nov. Humar alone on 1 Nov at 2:00 am started up, crossed glacier on hands & knees in deep snow here and fearful of crevasses; into small diagonal couloir when in not hurry because 80 degrees in couloir waterfall ice coming down; then traverse on West Face towards NW Ridge where wanted to biv but took too long in deep soft snow; at 3:00 pm made biv at 5500m under seracs but in ice cave; 2 Nov started 5:30 am, reached the NW Ridge and over on to NW Face's mixed terrain of ice and rock, arrived at rock band at about 6500m, then reached Col between Middle Summit and Main Summit to north of Middle Summit; finally on North Ridge for last 150 linear meters (30-40 vertical meters) to top at 1:00 pm; 2 Nov made photos and stayed 20 minutes in clear weather but wind blowing snow horizontally and very cold in descent came down West Pillar, not NW Face, across rock band and returned to West Face and slept again in 5500m biv (arrived at 4:00 pm); had taken biv tent, food for 2 days and stove up to top, not knowing how quickly could reach summit. Down to BC 3 Nov. Most difficult part was NW Face - in descent avoided waterfall's ice & sunshine so made different route in this area. His first solo climb.
Accidents -
Achievement New or unclimbed routes; 1st attempt on Bobaye
Agency Wilderness Experience
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference True
Primary ID APIM96301
Checksum 2455626
Year 1996
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face-nw ridge-nw face up; w pillar-w face down

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Tomaz Humar M 1969 Slovenia Climber Kamnik, Slovenia Electrician Details Other expeditions
Jernej Grudnik M 1972 Slovenia Climber Ljubno ob Savinji, Slovenia Student Details Other expeditions
Roman Robas M 1942 Slovenia Leader Medvode, Slovenia Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.