Bhrikuti | 1991 SE Ridge
A UK expedition to Bhrikuti in 1991 via SE Ridge, led by Elaine Brook. Summit reached on 22nd October 1991. 9 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 567 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | BHRI91301 |
| Peak ID | BHRI |
| Year | 1991 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | UK |
| Leaders | Elaine Brook |
| Sponsor | British Bhrikuti Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 4th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Kagbeni->Tange->Chuksam |
| Basecamp Date | 1991-10-20 |
| Summit Date | 1991-10-22 |
| Summit Time | 0745 |
| Summit Days | 2 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 6476 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 1 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 6 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 3 |
| Summit Hired | 3 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(20/10,5000m),ABC(20/10,5300m),C1(21/10,6100m),Smt(22/10) |
| Route Notes | BC just east of Damodar Kunde ABC northeast of BC C1 at steep sand/gravel dose at bottom of icefall. All foreigners except Edward Odell, the team doctor, stayed at BC throughout climb because felt effects of altitude. Team mad trekked from Pokhara 8th Oct, from Jomsom 15th Oct. 20th Lhakpa, Ang Kitar, Ang Jangbu and E Odell left BC and reached ABC at 5:30 pm. From BC to ABC terrain is wide steep sloping desert sand/gravel. 21st Oct Odell stayed at ABC while 3 Sherpas went on up and camped under icefall at 20,000 ft. Left ABC 2:30 am and reached C1 at 3:00 pm. 22nd Oct 3 Sherpas left C1 at 2:00 am and on top at 7:45 am. Climbed icefall in 2 hrs fixing rope here to top of icefall at 20,500 ft. From icefall snow and ice ridges very steep - no avalanches but very strong wind. Returned to BC at 7:00 pm. Fixed rope on final 200m to summit because it was windy on sharp rock ridges; this only rope fixed. 5 clients had thought in KTM they would climb but Sherpas were so much more energetic than they were in BC, they felt exploration was enough. BC and its lake are over two 17,000 ft passes from last camp at Gurrnatanti and very rocky taking porters as far as lake because heavy snowstorm could block passes. Bhrikuti (6364m) A British-Nepalese joint team, led by Elaine Brook and co-led by Lhakpa Sherpa, claimed that they made the first ascent of this peak by the SE Ridge on Oct 22, 1991. Three Sherpas (Lhakpa, Ang Zangbu and Ang Kitar) reportedly reached the summit at that time. However, when the HAJ (Himalayan Association of Japan) and the Tribhuvan Univ. Joint team first challenged this peak in 1982 Spring; they climbed all high peaks comprising main range. This fact is apparently denying above British claim [of 1st ascent]. The HAJ-Nepal joint team approached Bhrikuti, believed to be 6720m at that time and placed BC on NW Face via Dae village. |
| Accidents | None on mountain (all foreigners and Ang Kitar had altitude problems) |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Sherpa Society |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2453783 |
| Year | 1991 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | se ridge |
Members
9 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Elaine Brook | F | 1949 | UK | Leader | Peterchurch, Hereford, England | Travel company director | Details Other expeditions |
| Terrence Clarke | M | 1943 | UK | Climber | Sale, Cheshire, England | Company director | Details Other expeditions |
| Peter Hartrey | M | 1947 | UK | Climber | Khamis Musmayt, Saudi Arabia | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Edward Odell | M | 1957 | UK | Exp Doctor | London, England | Pathologist | Details Other expeditions |
| Rodney Whittam | M | 1945 | UK | Climber | Sale, Cheshire, England | Accountant | Details Other expeditions |
| David Wise | M | 1945 | UK | Climber | Harrow-on-the-Hill, Middlesex, England | Accountant | Details Other expeditions |
| Lhakpa Sherpa | M | 1963 | Nepal | Climbing Sirdar | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Kitar Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Zangbu Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| BHRI91301 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 66:215 (1992) | - |
| BHRI91301 | MM | - | - | - | 143:6 (Jan 1992) | - |
| BHRI91301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199221501/Asia-Nepal-Bhirikuti-First-and-Second-Ascents | - | - | - |