Bhrikuti | 1991 SE Ridge

A UK expedition to Bhrikuti in 1991 via SE Ridge, led by Elaine Brook. Summit reached on 22nd October 1991. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 567
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID BHRI91301
Peak ID BHRI
Year 1991
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Elaine Brook
Sponsor British Bhrikuti Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 4th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Kagbeni->Tange->Chuksam
Basecamp Date 1991-10-20
Summit Date 1991-10-22
Summit Time 0745
Summit Days 2
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6476
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 3
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(20/10,5000m),ABC(20/10,5300m),C1(21/10,6100m),Smt(22/10)
Route Notes BC just east of Damodar Kunde ABC northeast of BC C1 at steep sand/gravel dose at bottom of icefall. All foreigners except Edward Odell, the team doctor, stayed at BC throughout climb because felt effects of altitude. Team mad trekked from Pokhara 8th Oct, from Jomsom 15th Oct. 20th Lhakpa, Ang Kitar, Ang Jangbu and E Odell left BC and reached ABC at 5:30 pm. From BC to ABC terrain is wide steep sloping desert sand/gravel. 21st Oct Odell stayed at ABC while 3 Sherpas went on up and camped under icefall at 20,000 ft. Left ABC 2:30 am and reached C1 at 3:00 pm. 22nd Oct 3 Sherpas left C1 at 2:00 am and on top at 7:45 am. Climbed icefall in 2 hrs fixing rope here to top of icefall at 20,500 ft. From icefall snow and ice ridges very steep - no avalanches but very strong wind. Returned to BC at 7:00 pm. Fixed rope on final 200m to summit because it was windy on sharp rock ridges; this only rope fixed. 5 clients had thought in KTM they would climb but Sherpas were so much more energetic than they were in BC, they felt exploration was enough. BC and its lake are over two 17,000 ft passes from last camp at Gurrnatanti and very rocky taking porters as far as lake because heavy snowstorm could block passes. Bhrikuti (6364m) A British-Nepalese joint team, led by Elaine Brook and co-led by Lhakpa Sherpa, claimed that they made the first ascent of this peak by the SE Ridge on Oct 22, 1991. Three Sherpas (Lhakpa, Ang Zangbu and Ang Kitar) reportedly reached the summit at that time. However, when the HAJ (Himalayan Association of Japan) and the Tribhuvan Univ. Joint team first challenged this peak in 1982 Spring; they climbed all high peaks comprising main range. This fact is apparently denying above British claim [of 1st ascent]. The HAJ-Nepal joint team approached Bhrikuti, believed to be 6720m at that time and placed BC on NW Face via Dae village.
Accidents None on mountain (all foreigners and Ang Kitar had altitude problems)
Achievement -
Agency Sherpa Society
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453783
Year 1991
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Elaine Brook F 1949 UK Leader Peterchurch, Hereford, England Travel company director Details Other expeditions
Terrence Clarke M 1943 UK Climber Sale, Cheshire, England Company director Details Other expeditions
Peter Hartrey M 1947 UK Climber Khamis Musmayt, Saudi Arabia Physician Details Other expeditions
Edward Odell M 1957 UK Exp Doctor London, England Pathologist Details Other expeditions
Rodney Whittam M 1945 UK Climber Sale, Cheshire, England Accountant Details Other expeditions
David Wise M 1945 UK Climber Harrow-on-the-Hill, Middlesex, England Accountant Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Sherpa M 1963 Nepal Climbing Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Kitar Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Zangbu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
BHRI91301 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 66:215 (1992) -
BHRI91301 MM - - - 143:6 (Jan 1992) -
BHRI91301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199221501/Asia-Nepal-Bhirikuti-First-and-Second-Ascents - - -