Bhrikuti | 1982 NW Ridge-N Smt

A Austria expedition to Bhrikuti in 1982 via NW Ridge-N Smt, led by Hans Christian Unger. Summit reached on 27th September 1982. 20 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2048
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID BHRI82301
Peak ID BHRI
Year 1982
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Ridge-N Smt
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Austria
Leaders Hans Christian Unger
Sponsor Austrian-Nepalese Bhrikuti Joint Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Nepal
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1982-09-20
Summit Date 1982-09-27
Summit Time -
Summit Days 7
Total Days 9
Termination Date 1982-09-29
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6600m due to route difficulties and avalanche danger
High Point (m) 6600
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 20
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(20/09,4750m),C1(22/09,5350m),C2(23/09,5750m),N-Smt(27/09,6600m)
Route Notes Pt 6300 first climbed via a NW Ridge leading to it from Tehachang Glacier, then Axt went down and climbed N Summit of Bhrikuti, 6600m; after this peak is a higher peak, c6720m, but a lot of technical problems to go down and up, lot of snow and avalanche danger on ridge so Axt and his Nepali companion came back. 2 peaks climbed are on NW Ridge to highest peak. Approach route not the best route: via Naar Khola from south probably better than one via Muktinath which HMG required them to take; 4 days Muktinath to BC. BC 4750m - 20 Sept C1 5350m - 22 Sept at end of glacier under an iceland C2 5750m - 23 Sept 2 subsidiary summits reached on 26th Sept. Nepali members said must claim ascent of highest peak. Nepal Police cannot fail. Japanese in Spring climbed still another peak, SW of Bhrikuti (found piton in a valley). Climbers, but no Sherpas above BC. No accidents, frostbite or illness other than lady helicoptered out with altitude sickness. Hoellrigl - 1 Oct 82 Miss Gaar much better today. Sleeping in chair this am out of hospital. Mon/Tuesday and go home with group. Can't remember last 6-7 days and her English is not so fluent as before but German perfectly Ok. Hoellrigl - 1 Oct 82 By helicopter from BC: today Miss Gaar and Dr. Hoellrigl. She became sick 23 Sept and went down from C1 to BC. BC said to Dr. HHoellrigl in C2 by letter and Dr. H came to BC 26th Sept, the day he sickness really began. She spoke only few words to Dr. H., therefore had pulmonary edema; he gave oxygen and infusion and diaretic. Helicopter request sent to Jomsom by 2 policeman on 26th Sept. 27th and 28th Sept she became unconscious. 29th Sept oxygen finished (had used 2 bottles of 900 liters each) and looked as though she would die. No helicopter and no info about it. "We could only hope." Expected she would die but she didn't. Others left BC 30th Sept: in BC only Gaar, Dr. H., one other member, 1 policeman, 1 Sherpa and 2 porters today. Yesterday also infusion (2 bottles day of 500ml/bottles in 5 days used up). "Like a wonder last night she awoke at midnight and told us to take her home to Vienna quickly". Today she got first spoon of tea in 6 days, at BC and at 9 am helicopter arrived; she is in Santa Bhawan and in few days Dr. H. able to take her home. BC - established 20th Sept at 4600m - same area as Japanese: found some batteries 150m below Austrian BC C1 - 22 Sept reached by 12 members at 5350m 23 Sept 2 members went to C1 at 5850m. Axt to C2 and back to C1 while other 2 slept in C2. Gaar to BC with 2 others. 24th Sept snowing and no one moved. 25th Sept one member not well and down to C1, all others in C1 went to C2 leaving Hoellrigl in C1. 26th Sept Hoellrigl to BC. Axt and Rana went to see route to peak, long distance from C2 and returned to C2. 27th Sept Axt and Rana to summit and 4 others reached a peak on the way to Bhrikuti. The peak thought from BC to be Bhrikuti, but from this peak could see another 100m higher that is real Bhrikuti. 28th Sept all down to BC as 29th fixed for leaving BC. All should arrive KTM 11th Oct (arrive PKR 10th Oct). Lower Peak reached by 4 members and Axt and Rana on their way to main peak. Sharma, Tourism - 1 Oct 82 Scaled from south side by Nepalese Police and Austrian expedition (5 Nepalis and 15 Austrian) on 26th Sept by 1) Gupta Bahadur Rana, subinspector 2) Axt climbed Tukuche and Ganesh IV. One member, Susanne Gaar, 1944, Vienna became sick from acute high altitude sickness and came today by helicopter and admitted to Santa Bhawan. Vacating BC, established 20 Sept, after success. Other camps and BC altitude not known. Chettri, Ministry of Tourism - 1 Oct 82 Helicopter from BC with doctor. Leave BC today or tomorrow. Austrian-Nepal Bhrikuti Unger - 7 Sept 82 Hope to leave KTM 9 Sept by road to Pokhara. Want permission for same approach as Japanese in Spr 1982 and reach BC in 13 days [did not receive this permit - via Muktinath]. 7-8 days climbing for 8-10 members; others go to BC and stay there or in last village during climb. Route = West Ridge/Face, about same as Japanese Spring 1982 Plan 2 camps above BC. Axt, famous mountaineer, may skip 2nd camp; best climbing go fast and first, others after them. 3 Sherpas above BC 5 police members Medical oxygen only Laliguras on return for departure from Nepal on 14 Oct. Austrian-Nepalese Bhrikuti Joint Expedition
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450462
Year 1982
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) nw ridge-n smt

Members

20 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Wolfgang Axt M 1935 Austria Climbing Leader St. Johann, Tirol, Austria High school teacher of mathematics Details Other expeditions
Erich Bosina M 1924 Austria Climber Vienna, Austria Police official Details Other expeditions
Susanne Gaar F 1944 Austria Climber Vienna, Austria Bank clerk Details Other expeditions
Ferdinand Hoellrigl M 1953 Austria Climber Vienna, Austria Physician Details Other expeditions
Leopold Koschantsky M 1937 Austria Climber Vienna, Austria Employee Details Other expeditions
Albert Neuner M 1946 Austria Climber Vienna, Austria Insurance agent Details Other expeditions
Wolfgang Schindler M 1940 Austria Exp Doctor Vienna, Austria Physician Details Other expeditions
Kurt Schubert M 1949 Austria Climber Vienna, Austria Bank clerk Details Other expeditions
Hans Christian Unger M 1946 Austria Leader Vienna, Austria Journalist (Austrian Broadcasting Corporation) Details Other expeditions
Rudolf Weber M 1950 Austria Climber Vienna, Austria Electronics technician Details Other expeditions
Unknown M - Nepal Climber - Nepal Police Details Other expeditions
Gupta Bahadur Rana M 1945 Nepal Police Leader - Subinspector, Nepal Police Details Other expeditions
Edith Frank F 1936 Austria Member Vienna, Austria Office worker Details Other expeditions
Annemarie Kury F 1932 Austria Member Vienna, Austria Nurse Details Other expeditions
Margaretha Pokorny F 1919 Austria Member Neunkirchen, Lower Austria, Austria Retired teacher Details Other expeditions
Willibald Schneider M 1910 Austria Member Neunkirchen, Lower Austria, Austria Pensionist Details Other expeditions
Martina Wirtler-Schubert F 1959 Austria Member Vienna, Austria Office worker Details Other expeditions
Unknown M - Nepal Climber - Nepal Police Details Other expeditions
Unknown M - Nepal Climber - Nepal Police Details Other expeditions
Unknown M - Nepal Climber - Nepal Police Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
BHRI82301 AAJ Axt, Wolfgang - - 57:246 (1983) -
BHRI82301 AAJ Nyka, Jozef - - 58:252 (1984) -
BHRI82301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198425201/Asia-Nepal-Bhrikuti-Unclimbed - - -
BHRI82301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198324601/Asia-Nepal-Bhrikuti-North-Summit-Tehachang-and-P-6300-Damodar-Himal - - -