Baudha | 1970 E Face

A Japan expedition to Baudha in 1970 via E Face, led by Yasuhiko Iso. Summit reached on 2nd May 1970. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2480
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID BAUD70101
Peak ID BAUD
Year 1970
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Yasuhiko Iso
Sponsor Keio University Baudha Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date -
Summit Date 1970-05-02
Summit Time 1045
Summit Days 0
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6672
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(3800m),C1,C2,C3(6150m),Smt(02/05)
Route Notes Iso - 17 May 70 Iso and Okabe arrive today; other 4 leave today from Auraghat and arrive KTM about 20-21st May [actually arrived KTM 19 May]. Inoue is now well and Iso can now eat but will want more attention in Japan. Koje Chujjo (Itaya's full brother) to meet Iso and return Japanese about 20th together. This brother also climber but has not climbed in Himalayas; lives in Tokyo, father and mother live in Ichikawa. Very steep ice slope. 23rd April tried reach summit, but at about 6000m slipped 150m to West Face - ice hard and very steep. Itaya lost footing and pulled other 2 am same rope and all fell 150m at 10:00 am. All 3 injured with Itaya alive and conscious, but badly squeezed by rope 6000m summit slip. C3 6150m on east side and slipped on west side so needed climb up to reach camp on other face. 23rd April 3 climbed 40 meters by 3 pm and stayed night there. Iso lost one crampon, Inoue lost his ice axe and also very tired and in shock. Spent night in ice cave without sleeping bad but had bivouac tent. 24th 7:00 started climb, reached 6095m Itaya again slipped (again tied to other 2, this time with 2 ropes) and his ropes came untied and Itaya fell 100m into crevasse and dead. Iso and Inoue very tired and could not go down to him; 3:00 pm he fell and other could not see him. Iso and Inoue to C3 at 7:00 pm to tell others; weather bad so other party to search only on 30th. 2nd May summit reached 10:45 am. Left C3 at 5:00 am and used same route via north summit and returned to C3. Noordyk - 4 May 1970 3 members on 23rd and 1 slipped and pulled all 3. Stayed in hole in snow for night and next morning tried to reach 3 but again all 3 fell, 1 rope caught on ice gendarme and 1 fell out of rope and disappeared; other 2 hurt (leader Iso 1 severe frostbite and other breastbone fracture). Will come via Trisuli next week. Had only 3 Sherpas and 7 members, so half expedition out of action and Dutch lent 5 Sherpas. Shah of MFA - 7 April 70 Keio University expedition reached Jagat safely with 4 days more to reach base camp, according to message dated 2 April. Iso, Keio Expedition All 7 members now in KTM; Iso and 4 on today. Leave KTM 25 March by truck to Trisuli Bazar and thence 2 weeks to base camp Chuling Khola about 3800m. Not same route as British which was South Face; ours is east side with 40 meter icefall and steep snow slope requiring 800m fixed rope. Summit by 10th May via 3 camps above base. Inoue - 15 March Keio University. 2 members Toyoabi Inoue, Kiyoyasu Shibata arrive 14 March leader 16 - TG 311 +2 Yashiko Iso Leave KTM 23-5 March by truck to Trisuli Bazaar.
Accidents 1 member killed in fall
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2445919
Year 1970
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e face

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yasuhiko Iso M - Japan Leader Shinju-ku, Tokyo, Japan Staff member of Japan Special Steel Co. Details Other expeditions
Yoshiyuki Kobayashi M - Japan Climber Meguro-ku, Tokyo, Japan Staff member of Hitachi Cable Co. Details Other expeditions
Ko Okabe M - Japan Climber Nakano-ku, Tokyo, Japan Staff member of food import-export firm Details Other expeditions
Kazumoto Momose M - Japan Climber Nishinomiya, Hyogo, Japan Reporter of Asahi Shimbun Details Other expeditions
Yasuo Itaya M - Japan Climber Ichikawa, Chiba, Japan Staff member of paper mill Details Other expeditions
Toyoaki Inoue M - Japan Climber Ogaki, Gifu, Japan Political science student of Keio University Details Other expeditions
Kiyoyasu Shibata M - Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Commercial student of Keoi University Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
BAUD70101 AAJ - - - 45:436 (1971) -
BAUD70101 MM Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman Himalchuli - 47:44-45 (Jan 1976) -
BAUD70101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197143601/Asia-Nepal-Baudha - - -