Baruntse | 1998 SE Ridge

A Italy expedition to Baruntse in 1998 via SE Ridge, led by Paolo Giachini. Summit reached on 26th April 1998. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field	Value
ID	2630
Imported	2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID	BARU98101
Peak ID	BARU
Year	1998
Season	1
Host Country	1
Route 1	SE Ridge
Route 2	-
Route 3	-
Route 4	-
Nationality	Italy
Leaders	Paolo Giachini
Sponsor	Italian Himalayan Expedition to Baruntse
Success 1	False
Success 2	False
Success 3	False
Success 4	False
Ascent 1	-
Ascent 2	-
Ascent 3	-
Ascent 4	-
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Countries	-
Approach	Via Mera La
Basecamp Date	1998-04-14
Summit Date	1998-04-26
Summit Time	-
Summit Days	12
Total Days	14
Termination Date	1998-04-28
Termination Reason	5
Termination Notes	Abandoned at 6750m due to deep snow, difficult and very hot
High Point (m)	6750
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Camps	3
Fixed Rope (m)	310
Total Members	2
Summit Members	0
Member Deaths	0
Total Hired	1
Summit Hired	0
Hired Deaths	0
No Hired	False
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Taken	False
O2 Unknown	False
Other Summits	-
Campsites	BC(14/04,4900m),C1(20/04,5950m),C2(24/04,6140m),C3(25/04,6400m),xxx(26/04,6750m)
Route Notes	BC at normal site C1 below West Col on west side C2 on SE Ridge just above West Col C3 on SE Ridge. Expedition to Baruntse of Italian Baruntse. Expedition April 1998 3 April The expedition flies to Lukla 4 Lukla to Chutanga 5 Chutanga to Chhotrara, 4200m altitude; we begin to find snow 6 Chhotrara to Tashing Dingra, 3550m altitude 7 Stop one day for acclimatize overself 8 Tashing Dingra to Tangnag, 4200m altitude in the evening snowed 9 Stop one day for acclimatize ourself 10 Tangnag to Khare, 4800m altitude we found 150m snow 11 We got over Mera Pass 5480m altitude and stopped at 5200m alt little down 12 We go down until the Hunku Glacier and we stop at the Chatlang We find 2m of new snow to go is very bad 13 Go on along the Honku Glacier it is very difficult for the new snow we stop in the nearly of Panch Pokhari 14 After a march of more than 6 hours in the new snow we reach the BC 15 Stop for preparation our equipment and rest 16 Stop like day 15th 17 We go to look for high C1 place 18 Rest 19 Rest 20 BC to high C1 below the West Col 5950m alt 21 We work to put the fix rope very slowly cause the bad weather 22 We continue to work 23 We finish to put the fix rope to reach the glacier over Honku 24 It snows and we just put the high C2 on the West Col ridge 6140m 25 West Col ridge to high C3 at 6400m altitude 26 We start for summit at 3 am. At 8:00 am at an altitude of 6750m because of the very hard to go up for new snow and the in insupportable hot we decide to go down. We got to high C1. 27 High C1 to BC 28 BC to Amphu Laptsa BC 29 We got over Amphu Laptsa and reached Island Peak BC 30 Island Peak BC to Dingboche 1 May Dingboche to Namche Bazar 2 Namche Bazar to Lukla 3 Lukla to Jiri to Kathmandu In spite of we didn't reach the summit of Baruntse mountain, I am very happy for this mountaineering experience for the exceptional performance of the sirdar Lhakpa Gelbu Sherpa and the porters were very strong and they didn't give any problem in spite of the difficulties. Unfortunately we don't get seat for the flight for Lukla to Kathmandu for the 3rd of May and was impossible to postpone the internationals flight to Italy - fixed for the 4th of May caused the overbooking in this.
Accidents	-
Achievement	-
Agency	Mt. Pumori Adventures
Commercial Route	-
Standard Route	-
Primary Route	False
Primary Member	False
Primary Reference	False
Primary ID	-
Checksum	2456168
Year	1998
Summit Success	False
O2 Summary	None
Route (lowercase)	se ridge

Members

Field	Value
ID	3897
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	BARU98101
Member ID	02
Peak ID	BARU
Year	1998
Season	1
First Name	Marcello
Last Name	De Matteis
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1975
Calculated Age	23
Citizenship	Italy
Status	Climber
Residence	Santo Nicola all Strada, Caserta, Italy
Occupation	Student of jurisprudence
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6750
Summit Date 1	1998-04-26
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	4
HCN	0
Checksum	2440342
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	marcello de matteis
Year of Birth	1975
Year	1998
Age at Expedition	23
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	3898
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	BARU98101
Member ID	01
Peak ID	BARU
Year	1998
Season	1
First Name	Paolo
Last Name	Giachini
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1950
Calculated Age	47
Citizenship	Italy
Status	Leader
Residence	Rome, Italy
Occupation	Owns business exporting rope and construction company
Leader	True
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6750
Summit Date 1	1998-04-26
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	4
HCN	0
Checksum	2431547
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	paolo giachini
Year of Birth	1950
Year	1998
Age at Expedition	48
Role	Leader

Field	Value
ID	29576
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	BARU98101
Member ID	03
Peak ID	BARU
Year	1998
Season	1
First Name	Lhakpa Gelbu
Last Name	Sherpa
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	-
Calculated Age	0
Citizenship	Nepal
Status	Sirdar
Residence	-
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	True
Sherpa	True
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6750
Summit Date 1	1998-04-26
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	4
HCN	0
Checksum	-102
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	lhakpa gelbu sherpa
Year of Birth	-
Year	1998
Age at Expedition	-
Role	Hired

3 recorded members.

Name	Sex	Year of Birth	Citizenship	Status	Residence	Occupation
Marcello De Matteis	M	1975	Italy	Climber	Santo Nicola all Strada, Caserta, Italy	Student of jurisprudence	Details Other expeditions
Paolo Giachini	M	1950	Italy	Leader	Rome, Italy	Owns business exporting rope and construction company	Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Gelbu Sherpa	M	-	Nepal	Sirdar	-	-	Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.