Baruntse | 1995 W Pillar up; SE Ridge down

A Russia expedition to Baruntse in 1995 via W Pillar up; SE Ridge down, led by Sergei Efimov. Summit reached on 11th October 1995. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1540
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID BARU95301
Peak ID BARU
Year 1995
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Pillar up; SE Ridge down
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Russia
Leaders Sergei Efimov
Sponsor Alp-Sport Expedition 1995
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 36th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1995-09-23
Summit Date 1995-10-11
Summit Time 1500
Summit Days 18
Total Days 23
Termination Date 1995-10-16
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7152
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 45
Total Members 11
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(23/09,5450m),Biv1(03/10,5950m),Biv2(05/10,6100m),Biv3(06/10,6350m),Biv4(07/10,6510m),Biv5(08/10,6710m),Biv6(10/10,6950m),Smt(11/10)
Route Notes BC at normal BC (on west side) for SE Ridge, west-southwest of West Col Biv 1 near top of Icefall Biv 2 at beginning of W Pillar Biv 3 on W Pillar Biv 4 on W Pillar Biv 5 on W Pillar Biv 6 on W Pillar just below South Summit on SE Ridge. 1st climbed to West Col 27-28th to mark descent route in weather bad (snow and cloud) and could see nothing and went only to 6500m and back to BC. Next searched for route to icefall, which is easy. Fixed ropes but after climbed up, then made biv above, removed rope and used again. Summited on 11 Oct at 3 pm (left biv 6 at 9 am). In descent biv near south summit at 5 pm; next down S Ridge to BC on 12th at 2:30 pm. Others went up 6600m for making route of descent. Next difficult section in mixed rock and ice below to above biv 6 at 65 degrees; problem to find belay points because ice covered rock and Efimov just above last biv and here route steeper (75 degrees for 50m). No other team had started climbing Baruntse when Russians were on it.
Accidents None
Achievement 1st ascent of W Pillar
Agency Everest Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2455237
Year 1995
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w pillar up; se ridge down

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Sergei Bychkovski M 1956 Russia Exp Doctor Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Physician Details Other expeditions
Sergei Borisovich Efimov M 1944 Russia Leader Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Manager of travel & mountaineering service Details Other expeditions
Yuri Ermachek M 1962 Russia Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Non-commissioned officer in army's mountaineering core Details Other expeditions
Nikolai (Nike) Jiline M 1950 Russia Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Worker on tall buildings Details Other expeditions
Salavat Khabibulin M 1961 Russia Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Worker on tall buildings Details Other expeditions
Andrei Kouznetsov M 1968 Russia Climber Revda, Sverdlovsk, Russia Technical manager Details Other expeditions
Alexandre Mikhailov M 1943 Russia Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Valeri Pershin M 1948 Russia Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Boris Sedusov M 1950 Russia Climber Perm, Russia Construction company manager Details Other expeditions
Alexandr Verevkin M 1969 Russia Climber Pervouralsk, Sverdlovsk, Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Evgeni Vinogradski M 1946 Russia Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Physician Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
BARU95301 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 70:273 (1996) -
BARU95301 AJ Efimov, Sergei Baruntse West Face - 102:93-98 (1997) -
BARU95301 HIGH - - - 161:29 (Apr 1996) -
BARU95301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199627305/Asia-Nepal-Baruntse-West-Pillar - - -
BARU95301 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1997_files/AJ%201997%2093-98%20Efimov%20Baruntse.pdf - - -
BARU95301 - - http://www.mountain.ru/article/article_display1.php?article_id=9610 - - -
BARU95301 AAJ Efimov, Sergei Baruntse, West Face, Historial Ascent - 96:291 (2022) -