Baruntse | 1994 W Face of N Col-NW Face-N Ridge-N Smt

A Czechoslovakia expedition to Baruntse in 1994 via W Face of N Col-NW Face-N Ridge-N Smt, led by Martin Otta. Summit reached on 6th May 1994. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1328
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID BARU94101
Peak ID BARU
Year 1994
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face of N Col-NW Face-N Ridge-N Smt
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Czechoslovakia
Leaders Martin Otta
Sponsor Czech Expedition to Baruntse 1994
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1994-04-07
Summit Date 1994-05-06
Summit Time -
Summit Days 29
Total Days 32
Termination Date 1994-05-09
Termination Reason 2
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6985m (N Smt) due to wet equipment
High Point (m) 6985
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Island Peak
Campsites BC(07/04,4970m),ABC(24/04,5600m),Biv1(02/05,5970m),Biv2(03/05,6210m),Biv3(04/05,6400m),Biv4(05/05,6580m),N-Smt(06/05)
Route Notes BC at Imja Khola Biv 1 at Imja Glacier at bottom of west wall of North Col Biv 2 at west wall of North Col Biv 3 at west wall Biv 4 on North Ridge. Most difficult part between 1st & 2nd biv rock ramp of 200m height. Slept 6th night back in 4th biv. Did not go on to other summits because sleeping bags, etc had gotten very wet; Otta's gloves shredded & had to go up from 4th biv without gloves. Descent route Spring '84 Koreans. At first, team summited Island Peak, then 6 to Baruntse (Stastry had altitude problem on Island Peak). Martin Otta - 15 May 94 1) West Face - Baruntse North 2) From Imja Glacier 3) Start: 2 May from ABC (5600m) a) 2 May from 5600m to 5950m direct approx 50-60 degree ice climbing. b) 5950m to 6150m ramp from left to right approx 65-70 (200m) ice with unpleasant stones and finish mixed terrain 70 degree 50m Biv1 at 5970m in ramp. c) 1st snowfield - 100m 60 degree slope - from left to right to right upper corner and 20m mix (IV) Between Biv1 and Biv2 snowfield, good hard snow. Biv2 at 6210m in 1st snowfield. d) 2nd snowfield 200m 55 degree direct up - good hard snow. e) 3rd snowfield 150m 60-65 degree ice -> no hard bad snow following left side of field. f) 4th snowfield (200-250m) traverse in upper part of field (approx 50 degree) - very good hard snow. Biv3 at 6400m in snowfield. g) from 4th snowfield before end direct up in mixed terrain (IV) 50m and continue 100m to the north ridge to four stones - Biv4 at 6580m. h) from 6580m North Ridge to the North Summit (7014m) [6985 on HMG-Finn map]. i) descending - North Ridge to Numri-La, from Numri-La to Imja Glacier 6-8 May (basecamp).
Accidents Nothing
Achievement -
Agency Everest Adventure
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454713
Year 1994
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face of n col-nw face-n ridge-n smt

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Lubos Becak M 1961 Czechoslovakia Climber Prague, Czechoslovakia Telecommunications worker Details Other expeditions
Jan Kabrt M 1951 Czechoslovakia Exp Doctor Prague, Czechoslovakia Physician Details Other expeditions
Petr Kolovch M 1961 Czechoslovakia Climber Prague, Czechoslovakia Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Leitermann M 1962 Czechoslovakia Climber Carpenter, Czechoslovakia Firefighter Details Other expeditions
Martin Otta M 1954 Czechoslovakia Leader Prague, Czechoslovakia Building site engineer Details Other expeditions
Tomas Pekarek M 1966 Czechoslovakia Climber Prague, Czechoslovakia Secondary school teacher Details Other expeditions
Richard Stastny M 1967 Czechoslovakia Climber Prague, Czechoslovakia Worker on tall buildings Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
BARU94101 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 69:232 (1995) -
BARU94101 HIGH - - - 144:37-38 (Nov 1994) -
BARU94101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199523201/Asia-Nepal-Baruntse-Pre-Monsoon-Ascent-and-Attempt - - -