Baruntse | 1990 SE Ridge

A W Germany expedition to Baruntse in 1990 via SE Ridge, led by Hans Eitel. Summit reached on 11th April 1990. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 642
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID BARU90101
Peak ID BARU
Year 1990
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality W Germany
Leaders Hans Eitel
Sponsor German Baruntse Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1990-04-07
Summit Date 1990-04-11
Summit Time -
Summit Days 4
Total Days 11
Termination Date 1990-04-18
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6500m due to no experienced person to climb with
High Point (m) 6500
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/04,5200m),C1(08/04,6050m),xxx(11/04,6500m)
Route Notes BC across Barun Glacier from point 5750m on rocks leading to steep ice towards Sherpani Col C1 at east of point 6480m southwest of point 6680m. Expected to have team of 5 Germans but 3 came after Eitel and Brackmann and decided not to go to Baruntse. Big problem to arrive at BC because of deep snow beyond Sedua. Brackmann never went above BC because very weak. This left Eitel with only cook to climb with (cook was a Sherpa and insured for altitude, but had no knowledge of climbing). Made C1 and deposit beyond it at start of SE Ridge; Eitel hoped Brackmann could climb after rope fixed to C1 but when returned to BC Eitel found Brackmann unable to climb at all. 10-11 April Eitel and cook had come to C1 and made deposit on lower glacier towards S Ridge and then down to BC on 11 April and 14 April to C1 and deposit to bring back all equipment. Day-to-day Eitel's movements: 7th April - all arrive BC 8th April - Eitel and cook made C1 9th April - down to BC 10th April - Eitel and cook to C1 11th April - Eitel and cook to deposit and back to BC 12th April - all in C except Brackmann who leaves for KTM 13th April - in BC 14th April - Eitel and cook up to clear gear; sleep C1 15th April - down to BC Eitel and staff left BC 18 April as originally scheduled.
Accidents Brackmann altitude sickness (1st time in Himalayas) or new man's psychological problems with big mountains?
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453223
Year 1990
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Uwe Brackmann M 1968 W Germany Climber Gundelsheim, Bavaria, W Germany Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Hans Volker Eitel M 1945 W Germany Leader Heidelberg, Baden-Wuerttemberg, W Germany Sports shop manager Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
BARU90101 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 65:217 (1991) -
BARU90101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199121702/Asia-Nepal-Baruntse-Attempt - - -