Baruntse | 1984 SE Ridge

A Spain expedition to Baruntse in 1984 via SE Ridge, led by Nil Bohigas Martorell. Summit reached on 5th November 1984. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3615
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID BARU84302
Peak ID BARU
Year 1984
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Nil Bohigas Martorell
Sponsor -
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 19th claimed
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Makalu BC->Barun Glacier->Sherpani Col->West Col
Basecamp Date 1984-11-04
Summit Date 1984-11-05
Summit Time -
Summit Days 1
Total Days 2
Termination Date 1984-11-06
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7152
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(04/11),Smt(05/11)
Route Notes Fax to Liz Halwley from Nil Bohigas I did not get to know these ascents, as well as others ones that I did at the same period, because I did them without permission. The main reason was the crossing - trekking through the Arun and Khumbu's valleys from Tumlingtar to Jiri, crossing the Sherpani Col, the West Col and the Amphu Labsta. I did the trekking after the ascent in alpine style to Annapurna South Face with Enric Lucasa. I felt perfectly acclimatized to the altitude as well as Montse Soteras who went with me in this fantastic crossing. I have to say that Montse had not any experience in alpinism neither in ice climbing, therefore I think that her activity was still more "unbelievable" than mine. We went alone and we had just a little quantity of material; we had just a tent, sleeping bags and my climbing equipment composed by 2 ice-axes and a pair of crampons, we did not carry ropes. I climbed several summits during the crossing but I did not plan them before even I did not give them to much importance. The reason that we carried so few climbing equipment was because we were really badly informed. The Cols crossing has a great technical difficulty and it requires a team well equipped to be successful. We were really lucky to complete it. We could not climb on the Sherpani Col 6110 rocky section therefore we climbed on the icy slopes placed on its left (very much difficulty that Pethangtse South Face). We risked a lot (we share my ice-axes and crampons). On the Amphu Labtsa, 5870m, we find miraculously a part of the descent equipped with ropes which an expedition abandoned it not it had been impossible to descend. I took the decision of climbing these mountains during the crossing because we passed nearby and I thought I can achieved it due to the god conditions of the snow. I always thought that someone had climbed theat peaks before me. I have not detailed information because I did not keep notes about this crossing-trekking. I made the bivouac on the moraine at 6000m high where I left the material. I went out at night and I summited Pethangtse before the sunrise, I made very quickly the ascent by the right area of the South Face and the descent by the South West Ridge because there are not great technical difficulties. I found the main difficulties on the North Face Cho Polu's, first section, specially on the descent; I reached the summit by the NE Ridge. I descended by the same route and I reached the glacier at night. I cannot recall the schedules (15 years ago) but did not take more than 16 hours in total. Three days later I soloed the Baruntse 7220m, by SE Ridge and I left it by the West Col 6315m in 4 hours and 2:30 of descent. I went very quick and the conditions could not be better.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route True
Primary Member True
Primary Reference False
Primary ID CHOP84301
Checksum 2451234
Year 1984
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Unknown
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Nil Bohigas Martorell M 1958 Spain Leader Barcelona, Spain Alpine instructor & lecturer Details Other expeditions
Montserrat (Montse) Soteras F 1961 Spain Member Barcelona, Spain Primary school teacher Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.