Baruntse | 1980 SE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Baruntse in 1980 via SE Ridge, led by Kazuo Hayashi. Summit reached on 15th December 1980. 14 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1852
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID BARU80401
Peak ID BARU
Year 1980
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Kazuo Hayashi
Sponsor Academic Alpine Club of Hokkaido Himalaya Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 9th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Tumlingtar->Shipton La->Barun Glacier
Basecamp Date 1980-11-17
Summit Date 1980-12-15
Summit Time 1330
Summit Days 28
Total Days 42
Termination Date 1980-12-29
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7152
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 12
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 7
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(17/11,4980m),C1(01/12,5130m),C2(03/12,5720m),C3(05/12,6140m),C4(13/12,6700m),Smt(15/12)
Route Notes Ikegami - 12 Jan 81 2nd summit party on 23 Dec reached 7000m but turned back by snowfall and very strong wind: Azuma, Matsumoto, H. Nakamura, T. Nakamura, Suzaki, Hanai and Ishmura. Route = SE Ridge, same as Japanese 1980 autumn and 1954, so 3rd successful team via this ridge. In other season not so difficult except 100m knife ridge about 7000m same difficult; other easy but C3 and C4 hit by very strong wind from west but tent not destroyed. General leader and his Dr. reached 1 day below BC. Never at BC, reached 1 day below 23 Dec when heavy snowfall occurred of 20 cm at BC. 2nd attempt made from C4 and reached 7000m and returned to C4. 24th hoped to go up again but also snowing on 24th and so to C4 on 24th instead. No accidents, frostbite illness. 4 members and Hayashi and Sato now in KTM and others arrive 13 Jan if flight operates. On top much snow and lower temperature so don't feel cold but wind may strong in Nepal. Also sunlight hours same in Japan and Nepal but mentally reluctant go outside tent in Nepal. Wind same Japan cyclones. 2/3 of all days was strong wind (maximum 25m/sec at C3 90 km/hr). 6000m and 7000m not so difficult 4 Dec between Jan temperature lower; wind is lower than on 8000m peaks. Dec better than pre- and post-monsoon, but 8000m very difficult. Sept very much snowfall and so dangerous for avalanche. Saw avalanches from icefall of Makalu, not on Baruntse. Used oxygen sleeping at C4 by 2 persons nights before summit bids (1 now each bid - different men). Noshaq climbed in winter by Poles 1972 or 1973; only other ascent of 7000m peak in Dec-Jan. 15 Dec weather fine and wind not so bad except on summit maybe 20 cm/sec 2 members leave Nepal after 10 days, others maybe trekking. Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 8 Jan 81 15 Dec 4 Japanese and 1 Sherpa summited 23 Dec were to make another attempt and did so, but unsuccessful because strong wind and snow reached 7000m 24 Dec abandoned 29 Dec left BC All well Shailendra Sharma - 23 Dec 80 C2 3 Dec - 5720m C1 1 Dec - 5130m C3 5 Dec - 6140m C4 last camp 13 Dec to be established. Letter from expedition leader dated 9 Dec. Maximum temperature C3 on 8 Dec -4 degrees centrigrade. Minimum -13 degree centrigrade. Very windy All well Hayashi - 4 Dec 80 Climbing party reached BC 17 Nov and reported very cold and some members not sick. Hayashi and Dr. Sato will leave tomorrow to Tumlingtar and trek; hope to reach BC and even C1. Hayashi climbed in Canada Rockies 5 years ago but not to such altitude. Ishimura - 13 Oct 80 On top on 1st Jan. 12 members, 3 now in KTM; others in 2 weeks and 2 old members arrive 5 Nov and go to BC only; 10 climbing members. Divide 10 climbers in 2 parties: 1 by road to Dharan with Sherpas and baggage leave KTM 23 Oct. Others leave 31 Oct by air to Tumlingtar. Next 1st party there on 31 Oct and leave for BC 1 Nov. 2 weeks to BC. Route = South Ridge, but via different early part of route (see map). BC at 5000m on Barun Glacier C1 5300m C2 6000m C3 6300m C4 6700m on ridge 6 H-A Sherpas plus sirdar Wangal (7 total) Oxygen for sleeping and medical Will do same acclimatization at Shipton Pass (4000m) route to BC. 1 Dec start climbing. 1 Jan summit.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449764
Year 1980
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

14 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Nobuhiko Azuma M 1954 Japan Climber Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Glaciology student Details Other expeditions
Jun Hamana M 1948 Japan Climber Shizuoka-shi, Shizuoka, Japan Journalist Details Other expeditions
Osamu Hanai M 1952 Japan Climber Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Freelance writer Details Other expeditions
Koichi Ikegami M 1952 Japan Climber Chikusa, Nagoya, Japan Graduate student, glaciology Details Other expeditions
Akinari Ishimura M 1953 Japan Climber Shiki, Saitama, Japan Does all kinds of work to finance climbing Details Other expeditions
Ichiro Matsumoto M 1959 Japan Climber Sakai, Osaka, Japan Student of pedagogy, Hokkaido University Details Other expeditions
Haruhiko Nakamura M 1937 Japan Climbing Leader Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Geologist Details Other expeditions
Toyohiko Nakamura M 1956 Japan Climber Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Graduate student, mechanical engineering at Hokkaido Univ Details Other expeditions
Toshiji Sumiya M 1956 Japan Exp Doctor Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Physician (anesthesiologist) Details Other expeditions
Nobuhiko Suzaki M 1959 Japan Climber Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Mechanical-engineering student at Hokkaido University Details Other expeditions
Kazuo Hayashi M 1921 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Industrialist Details Other expeditions
Yukio Sato M 1927 Japan Exp Doctor Iwanai, Hokkaido, Japan Physician (lung specialist) at Iwanai Public Hospital Details Other expeditions
Ang Pemba Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Wangel Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

9 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
BARU80401 AAJ - - - 55:251 (1981) -
BARU80401 JAC Nakamura, Haruhiko Baruntse in Midwinter 1980/1981 - 76:9-10 (1981) -
BARU80401 HJ Nakamura, H. Baruntse Expedition, 1980/1881 (Winter) - 38:162-164 (1980-1981) -
BARU80401 MM - - - 79:14 (May 1981) -
BARU80401 JAC Nakamura, Haruhiko Baruntse in Midwinter 1980/1981 - 76:86-93 (1981) -
BARU80401 - Hokkaido University Alpine Club Winter Ascent of Baruntse 1980-81 Hokkaido University Alpine Club, Sapporo, Japan - jH191
BARU80401 IWA - - - 88:185 (1982) -
BARU80401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198125102/Asia-Nepal-Baruntse-Winter-Ascent - - -
BARU80401 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/38/25/expeditions-and-notes-38/ - - -