Baruntse | 1980 N Ridge from W

A USA expedition to Baruntse in 1980 via N Ridge from W, led by Peter Hackett. Summit reached on 17th October 1980. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field	Value
ID	1886
Imported	2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID	BARU80302
Peak ID	BARU
Year	1980
Season	3
Host Country	1
Route 1	N Ridge from W
Route 2	-
Route 3	-
Route 4	-
Nationality	USA
Leaders	Peter Hackett
Sponsor	Eastern Sierra Himalayan Expedition
Success 1	False
Success 2	False
Success 3	False
Success 4	False
Ascent 1	-
Ascent 2	-
Ascent 3	-
Ascent 4	-
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Countries	-
Approach	-
Basecamp Date	1980-09-26
Summit Date	1980-10-17
Summit Time	-
Summit Days	21
Total Days	0
Termination Date	-
Termination Reason	4
Termination Notes	Abandoned at 6950m due to cold and wind
High Point (m)	6950
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Camps	2
Fixed Rope (m)	0
Total Members	8
Summit Members	0
Member Deaths	0
Total Hired	0
Summit Hired	0
Hired Deaths	0
No Hired	True
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Taken	False
O2 Unknown	False
Other Summits	-
Campsites	BC(26/09,5120m),ABC(28/09,5280m),C1(02/10,5600m),C2(14/10,6180m),xxx(17/10,6950m)
Route Notes	Fischer - 27 Oct 80 Schlim never joined in the climbing, just escorted LO to BC and said hello, then went off to Pheriche and HRA aid post. No sign of French bodies, not even fixed ropes found. Fischer - 28 Oct 80 Head wall = wall above Imja Glacier to North Col Climbed 4/5th of way to North Summit via North Ridge (not main summit because Johnson and Collins had left expedition about 25 Sept; didn't even try climbing above BC because didn't like look of headwall). After about 25 Sept on mountain Fischer, Hackett, Jensen and Wiltsie. Hackett got tired and sick 6 Oct and down to BC; out of action five days. Then all four climbers went up and got as high as 100m below North Summit on 17th Oct. Turned back in very cold and strong wind. Jensen and Hackett's toes because numb (and still are numb). Hackett - 9 Aug 80 Route probably same as French 1980, i.e., North Ridge from west side (but perhaps from east side). To get to North Col to go to North Ridge taking skis and hope to ski down North Ridge, from North summit 7057m to Col at 6190m. Sherpa climbing course of 37 Sherpas on Ama Dablam from Mingbo before Baruntse, so will approach from West almost certainly. Leave 15 Aug to Lamosangu arrive Mingbo 1st week Sept; course taught 5-25 Sept. BC 27 Sept at about 17,000 feet on Imja Glacier. Probably a well-stocked camp on col north of Baruntse at 6180m. No Sherpas above BC and no oxygen. Pasang Kami = sirdar for Sherpa climbing course. Tsering Wangchu = BC sirdar.
Accidents	-
Achievement	-
Agency	-
Commercial Route	-
Standard Route	-
Primary Route	False
Primary Member	False
Primary Reference	-
Primary ID	-
Checksum	2449705
Year	1980
Summit Success	False
O2 Summary	None
Route (lowercase)	n ridge from w

Members

Field	Value
ID	3423
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	BARU80302
Member ID	03
Peak ID	BARU
Year	1980
Season	3
First Name	Richard
Last Name	Collins
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1946
Calculated Age	34
Citizenship	USA
Status	Climber
Residence	Teton Village, Wyoming
Occupation	Alpine & ski guide
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	12
HCN	0
Checksum	2430106
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	richard collins
Year of Birth	1946
Year	1980
Age at Expedition	34
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	3424
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	BARU80302
Member ID	04
Peak ID	BARU
Year	1980
Season	3
First Name	John Cyril
Last Name	Fischer
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1946
Calculated Age	34
Citizenship	USA
Status	Climber
Residence	Bishop, California
Occupation	Alpine guide
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6950
Summit Date 1	1980-10-17
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(1946-2010)
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	3
HCN	0
Checksum	49
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	john cyril fischer
Year of Birth	1946
Year	1980
Age at Expedition	34
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	3425
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	BARU80302
Member ID	01
Peak ID	BARU
Year	1980
Season	3
First Name	Peter Harvey
Last Name	Hackett
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1947
Calculated Age	32
Citizenship	USA
Status	Leader
Residence	Denver, Colorado
Occupation	Physician
Leader	True
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6950
Summit Date 1	1980-10-17
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	3
HCN	0
Checksum	2430616
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	peter harvey hackett
Year of Birth	1947
Year	1980
Age at Expedition	33
Role	Leader

Field	Value
ID	3426
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	BARU80302
Member ID	05
Peak ID	BARU
Year	1980
Season	3
First Name	Keith Jay
Last Name	Jensen
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1951
Calculated Age	28
Citizenship	USA
Status	Climber
Residence	Bishop, California
Occupation	Carpenter & farmer
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6950
Summit Date 1	1980-10-17
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	3
HCN	0
Checksum	2432032
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	keith jay jensen
Year of Birth	1951
Year	1980
Age at Expedition	29
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	3427
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	BARU80302
Member ID	07
Peak ID	BARU
Year	1980
Season	3
First Name	Philip L.
Last Name	Johnson
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	-
Calculated Age	0
Citizenship	USA
Status	Climber
Residence	Miles, Illinois
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	49
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	philip l. johnson
Year of Birth	-
Year	1980
Age at Expedition	-
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	3428
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	BARU80302
Member ID	02
Peak ID	BARU
Year	1980
Season	3
First Name	David R.
Last Name	Shlim
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1949
Calculated Age	31
Citizenship	USA
Status	Deputy Leader
Residence	Portland, Oregon
Occupation	Physician (emergency)
Leader	False
Deputy	True
Basecamp Only	True
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	17
HCN	0
Checksum	2431172
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	david r. shlim
Year of Birth	1949
Year	1980
Age at Expedition	31
Role	Deputy

Field	Value
ID	3429
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	BARU80302
Member ID	08
Peak ID	BARU
Year	1980
Season	3
First Name	Gordon Hastings
Last Name	Wiltsie
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1952
Calculated Age	28
Citizenship	USA
Status	Climber
Residence	Bishop, California
Occupation	Photographer & alpine gude
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6950
Summit Date 1	1980-10-17
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	3
HCN	0
Checksum	2432326
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	gordon hastings wiltsie
Year of Birth	1952
Year	1980
Age at Expedition	28
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	28139
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	BARU80302
Member ID	10
Peak ID	BARU
Year	1980
Season	3
First Name	Tshering Wangchu
Last Name	Sherpa
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	-
Calculated Age	0
Citizenship	Nepal
Status	Sirdar
Residence	-
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	True
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	True
Sherpa	True
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	17
HCN	0
Checksum	49
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	tshering wangchu sherpa
Year of Birth	-
Year	1980
Age at Expedition	-
Role	BC Only

Field	Value
ID	28265
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	BARU80302
Member ID	09
Peak ID	BARU
Year	1980
Season	3
First Name	Pasang Kami
Last Name	Sherpa
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	-
Calculated Age	0
Citizenship	Nepal
Status	Climbing Sirdar
Residence	-
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	True
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	True
Sherpa	True
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	17
HCN	0
Checksum	49
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	pasang kami sherpa
Year of Birth	-
Year	1980
Age at Expedition	-
Role	BC Only

Field	Value
ID	32864
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	BARU80302
Member ID	06
Peak ID	BARU
Year	1980
Season	3
First Name	Lensworth (Lanny)
Last Name	Johnson
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1956
Calculated Age	23
Citizenship	USA
Status	Climber
Residence	Fremont, California
Occupation	Ski instructor
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2433924
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	lensworth (lanny) johnson
Year of Birth	1956
Year	1980
Age at Expedition	24
Role	Member

10 recorded members.

Name	Sex	Year of Birth	Citizenship	Status	Residence	Occupation
Richard Collins	M	1946	USA	Climber	Teton Village, Wyoming	Alpine & ski guide	Details Other expeditions
John Cyril Fischer	M	1946	USA	Climber	Bishop, California	Alpine guide	Details Other expeditions
Peter Harvey Hackett	M	1947	USA	Leader	Denver, Colorado	Physician	Details Other expeditions
Keith Jay Jensen	M	1951	USA	Climber	Bishop, California	Carpenter & farmer	Details Other expeditions
Philip L. Johnson	M	-	USA	Climber	Miles, Illinois	-	Details Other expeditions
David R. Shlim	M	1949	USA	Deputy Leader	Portland, Oregon	Physician (emergency)	Details Other expeditions
Gordon Hastings Wiltsie	M	1952	USA	Climber	Bishop, California	Photographer & alpine gude	Details Other expeditions
Tshering Wangchu Sherpa	M	-	Nepal	Sirdar	-	-	Details Other expeditions
Pasang Kami Sherpa	M	-	Nepal	Climbing Sirdar	-	-	Details Other expeditions
Lensworth (Lanny) Johnson	M	1956	USA	Climber	Fremont, California	Ski instructor	Details Other expeditions

References

Field	Value
ID	1803
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	BARU80302
Reference ID	01
Year	1980
Type	2
Journal	AAJ
Author	Hackett, Peter
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1981
Language	-
Citation	55:249-251 (1981)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	3954
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	BARU80302
Reference ID	02
Year	1980
Type	3
Journal	MM
Author	-
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1981
Language	-
Citation	77:11 (Jan 1981)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	12941
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	BARU80302
Reference ID	03
Year	1980
Type	5
Journal	-
Author	-
Title	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198124903/Asia-Nepal-Baruntse-North-Ridge-from-the-West
Publisher	-
Publication Date	-
Language	-
Citation	-
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID	Journal	Author	Title	Publisher	Citation	Yak 94
BARU80302	AAJ	Hackett, Peter	-	-	55:249-251 (1981)	-
BARU80302	MM	-	-	-	77:11 (Jan 1981)	-
BARU80302	-	-	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198124903/Asia-Nepal-Baruntse-North-Ridge-from-the-West	-	-	-