Baruntse | 1980 S Ridge
A Japan expedition to Baruntse in 1980 via S Ridge, led by Tetsuya Saito. Summit reached on 26th September 1980. 11 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1883 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | BARU80301 |
| Peak ID | BARU |
| Year | 1980 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Tetsuya Saito |
| Sponsor | Utsunomiya University Baruntse Expedition 1980 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 6th-8th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Tumlingtar->Barun Glacier->Sherpani Col->West Col |
| Basecamp Date | 1980-09-01 |
| Summit Date | 1980-09-26 |
| Summit Time | 1130 |
| Summit Days | 25 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7152 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 8 |
| Summit Members | 5 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 3 |
| Summit Hired | 3 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | True |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(01/09,5000m),C1(07/09,5150m),C2(12/09,5750m),C3(16/09,6150m),C4(23/09,6500m),Smt(26-28/09) |
| Route Notes | Nobuyasu & Nagashima - 14 Oct 80 Climbed South Ridge, same route as New Zealand 1954. No frostbite, accident or serious illness. Good weather Pinnacle above C4 difficult; sharp snow ridge from C4 to top. 26 Sept left C4 1:30 am and arrived summit 11:30 am. No trace of dead French. Actually 3 people reached summit on 27 Sept; Nawang Yunde Sherpa went with 2 Japanese. Camps established as follows: BC - 5000m 1 Sept C1 - 5150m 7 Sept C2 - 5750m 12 Sept C3 - 6150m 23 Sept Saito & Oba - 16 Aug 80 Route = South Ridge (same as 1954 New Zealand) See plate 38 in Galfy's Makalu (their ridge from summit in right of pix down to left central). Approach via Sherpani Col. All members in Nepal; 2 on way via Dharan with 85 porters and 3 Sherpas, etc. 6 in KTM leave Monday by scheduled flight to Tumlingtar and meet walkers at Tumlingtar. BC at about 5000m in Makalu BC area near Barun Pokhari; route thence to Sherpani Col, then to South Ridge above West Col. 4 camps above BC: C1 on Barun Glacier northeast of Sherpani Col at about 5300m C3 at 6500m just below South Ridge and north of West Col. C4 at 7000m on Ridge. Last 200m very difficult hence need for camp at 7000m; snow ridge badly corniced. 3 Sherpas above BC - sirdar = Pasang Norbu Oxygen meical only Arrive BC 5 Sept Summit 3-5 Oct (3rd = Oba's birthday) |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2449684 |
| Year | 1980 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | s ridge |
Members
11 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tatsunobu Inoue | M | 1952 | Japan | Climber | Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka, Japan | Physician (internal medicine) | Details Other expeditions |
| Masaharu Masuzaki | M | 1954 | Japan | Climber | Utsunomiya, Tochigi, Japan | Student of animal husbandry, Utsunomiya University | Details Other expeditions |
| Motoi Nagashima | M | 1959 | Japan | Climber | Utsunomiya, Tochigi, Japan | Student of mechanical engineering, Utsunomiya University | Details Other expeditions |
| Isamu Nobuyasu | M | 1959 | Japan | Climber | Utsunomiya, Tochigi, Japan | Student of geology, Utsunomiya University | Details Other expeditions |
| Tamio Oba | M | 1952 | Japan | Deputy Leader | Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka, Japan | Unemployed, recently graduated, may work in father's liquor shop | Details Other expeditions |
| Takashi Okumura | M | 1956 | Japan | Climber | Utsunomiya, Tochigi, Japan | Student of forestry, Utsunomiya University | Details Other expeditions |
| Tetsuya Saito | M | 1944 | Japan | Leader | Miyashiro, Saitama, Japan | Export manager, foodstuffs department, Kanda Corporation, Tokyo | Details Other expeditions |
| Noriaki Ujiie | M | 1956 | Japan | Climber | Utsunomiya, Tochigi, Japan | Student of animal husbandry, Utsunomiya University | Details Other expeditions |
| Pasang Norbu/Nurbu Sherpa | M | 1954 | Nepal | Sirdar | Namche Bazar, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Nawang Yonden Sherpa | M | 1952 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Beding, Dolakha | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Dawa Tsering Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| BARU80301 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. | - | - | 55:251 (1981) | - |
| BARU80301 | MM | - | - | - | 77:11 (Jan 1981) | - |
| BARU80301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198125101/Asia-Nepal-Baruntse | - | - | - |