Baruntse | 1980 S Ridge

A Japan expedition to Baruntse in 1980 via S Ridge, led by Tetsuya Saito. Summit reached on 26th September 1980. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1883
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID BARU80301
Peak ID BARU
Year 1980
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Tetsuya Saito
Sponsor Utsunomiya University Baruntse Expedition 1980
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 6th-8th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Tumlingtar->Barun Glacier->Sherpani Col->West Col
Basecamp Date 1980-09-01
Summit Date 1980-09-26
Summit Time 1130
Summit Days 25
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7152
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 3
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(01/09,5000m),C1(07/09,5150m),C2(12/09,5750m),C3(16/09,6150m),C4(23/09,6500m),Smt(26-28/09)
Route Notes Nobuyasu & Nagashima - 14 Oct 80 Climbed South Ridge, same route as New Zealand 1954. No frostbite, accident or serious illness. Good weather Pinnacle above C4 difficult; sharp snow ridge from C4 to top. 26 Sept left C4 1:30 am and arrived summit 11:30 am. No trace of dead French. Actually 3 people reached summit on 27 Sept; Nawang Yunde Sherpa went with 2 Japanese. Camps established as follows: BC - 5000m 1 Sept C1 - 5150m 7 Sept C2 - 5750m 12 Sept C3 - 6150m 23 Sept Saito & Oba - 16 Aug 80 Route = South Ridge (same as 1954 New Zealand) See plate 38 in Galfy's Makalu (their ridge from summit in right of pix down to left central). Approach via Sherpani Col. All members in Nepal; 2 on way via Dharan with 85 porters and 3 Sherpas, etc. 6 in KTM leave Monday by scheduled flight to Tumlingtar and meet walkers at Tumlingtar. BC at about 5000m in Makalu BC area near Barun Pokhari; route thence to Sherpani Col, then to South Ridge above West Col. 4 camps above BC: C1 on Barun Glacier northeast of Sherpani Col at about 5300m C3 at 6500m just below South Ridge and north of West Col. C4 at 7000m on Ridge. Last 200m very difficult hence need for camp at 7000m; snow ridge badly corniced. 3 Sherpas above BC - sirdar = Pasang Norbu Oxygen meical only Arrive BC 5 Sept Summit 3-5 Oct (3rd = Oba's birthday)
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449684
Year 1980
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Tatsunobu Inoue M 1952 Japan Climber Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka, Japan Physician (internal medicine) Details Other expeditions
Masaharu Masuzaki M 1954 Japan Climber Utsunomiya, Tochigi, Japan Student of animal husbandry, Utsunomiya University Details Other expeditions
Motoi Nagashima M 1959 Japan Climber Utsunomiya, Tochigi, Japan Student of mechanical engineering, Utsunomiya University Details Other expeditions
Isamu Nobuyasu M 1959 Japan Climber Utsunomiya, Tochigi, Japan Student of geology, Utsunomiya University Details Other expeditions
Tamio Oba M 1952 Japan Deputy Leader Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka, Japan Unemployed, recently graduated, may work in father's liquor shop Details Other expeditions
Takashi Okumura M 1956 Japan Climber Utsunomiya, Tochigi, Japan Student of forestry, Utsunomiya University Details Other expeditions
Tetsuya Saito M 1944 Japan Leader Miyashiro, Saitama, Japan Export manager, foodstuffs department, Kanda Corporation, Tokyo Details Other expeditions
Noriaki Ujiie M 1956 Japan Climber Utsunomiya, Tochigi, Japan Student of animal husbandry, Utsunomiya University Details Other expeditions
Pasang Norbu/Nurbu Sherpa M 1954 Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Nawang Yonden Sherpa M 1952 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Dawa Tsering Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
BARU80301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 55:251 (1981) -
BARU80301 MM - - - 77:11 (Jan 1981) -
BARU80301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198125101/Asia-Nepal-Baruntse - - -