Baruntse | 1980 N Ridge from W

A France expedition to Baruntse in 1980 via N Ridge from W, led by Julien Graux. Summit reached on 28th April 1980. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1855
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID BARU80102
Peak ID BARU
Year 1980
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Ridge from W
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Julien Graux
Sponsor -
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 4th possible
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date -
Summit Date 1980-04-28
Summit Time -
Summit Days 0
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6900
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 2
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(4200m),C1,C2(5600m),xxx(28/04,6900m+)
Route Notes Buhler - 12 May 80 Those watching French saw them going up and then down later; almost surely had reached summit. In descent on North Face seemed to fall into crevasse at about 6900m while making a horizontal traverse and then suddenly go down. Apparently had been using Spaniard's final route to summit. Last seen by Spanish at 3:00 pm on 28th. Buhler and Lopez - 11 May 80 (Spanish Baruntse) On 28 April, 2 French members seen from Spaniard's C1 climbing stronger and then disappeared, possibly into crevasse, in afternoon (3:00 pm) at about 6900m at foot steep NE wall Spaniards had climbed and which leads to North Ridge. Seen by Phu Tashi, kitchen boy, and leader. Mukhia of OHA - 9 May 80 He went in helicopter for French Baruntse expedition today. Took 1 Sherpa from KTM and picked up 2 Sherpas from Pangboche. 3 Sherpas were dropped on glacier above BC and below where members bodies are believed to be (at about 5800m). Sherpas instructed to bring bodies to BC and inform KTM, Yves Austin, French Embassy. Sherpas will be instructed to bury or cremate bodies at BC. Yves Austin, French Embassy - 6 May 80 Went first to BC at 14,000 feet in helicopter, then up to 5700m. Saw ropes and other traces of where they had been climbing; fell 500-600 feet making route tied together. Were nearly at summit and fell down to 5700m down glacier North Face. Last night heavy snowfalls and could see where bodies are in snow had were slightly above; will probably send Sherpas to site where fallen, 5+ hours from BC. Film team at BC. No attempts on Everest and Lhotse today because very strong wind early. Had reached about 6500m on ridge, fell on left side about 800m. Premchausha Shrestha, Tourism - 4 May 80 Missing members 1) Julien Graux, born 1946, leader 2) Phillippe Grezat, born 1956 Since 26 April where going from C2 to site for C3 in afternoon when suddenly clouds gathered. 27 April not sighted. 29 April 3 Sherpas from BC up they went to C2 and saw nothing except blood on rock and saw white objects; seen below C2. Helicopter requested. Not sighted to 2 May at least. Robert Rieffel - 4 May 80 One member of French Baruntse expedition came to KTM; [Robert] Rieffel saw him last Thursday carrying his backpack. Said he'd fallen into crevasse, but roped to another fellow who belayed him; fell only 6-7m into crevasse, 2 or 3 ribs cracked. Rieffel doesn't know member's name, but M. Pelle of Delta/Universal Tours of knows [Pelle says it was Van de Velde]. Van de Velde - 9 April 80 Approach via Chhukung village, last on Imja Glacier to col at 6190m between Cho Polu and Baruntse and then south up North Ridge. Route = North Ridge from west. Arrived in KTM 5 and 10 days ago; 2 leave 5 April and about 7-8 April Fly to Lukla 4-5 days to BC. BC at about 5200m, 1 camp at 6200m on col, 1 camp perhaps at about 7000m Very light expedition, no fixed project, not sure exactly of route. All in BC mid-April and summit end of April. Not too difficult and above col quite easy. No oxygen. 1 Sherpa only, probably above BC, name don't know. Expedition has no name Probably stay in GHA's Lazimpat store room on return to KTM.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449533
Year 1980
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n ridge from w

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Julien Graux M 1946 France Leader Paris, France Architect-photographer Details Other expeditions
Philippe Grezat M 1956 France Climber Argentiere, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide trainee Details Other expeditions
Denis Van de Velde M 1943 France Climber Marly, Metz-Ville, France Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Etienne De Grammont M - France Film Team Paris, France Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Michel Foubert M - France Film Team Paris, France Assistant cameraman Details Other expeditions
Gerard Zimmerman M - France Film Team Paris, France Sound engineer Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
BARU80102 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 55:249 (1981) -
BARU80102 MM - - - 74:14 (Jul 1980) -
BARU80102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198124901/Baruntse-Tragedy - - -