Baruntse | 1980 E Ridge-NE Face-N Ridge

A Spain expedition to Baruntse in 1980 via E Ridge-NE Face-N Ridge, led by Juan Jose Diaz Ibanez. Summit reached on 27th April 1980. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1914
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID BARU80101
Peak ID BARU
Year 1980
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Ridge-NE Face-N Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Juan Jose Diaz Ibanez
Sponsor Federation Aragonesa De Montana
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 4th,5th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries USA
Approach Tumlingtar->Shipton La->Barun Glacier
Basecamp Date 1980-04-07
Summit Date 1980-04-27
Summit Time 1300
Summit Days 20
Total Days 28
Termination Date 1980-05-05
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7152
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/04,5350m),C1(10/04,5650m),C2(19/04,6060m),C3(25/04,6600m),Smt(27-28/04)
Route Notes Buhler & Lopez - 11 May 80 Lopez no frostbite, Prado very mild. Other members arrive KTM today. All well (except Prado's mild frostbite), no accidents, no serious illnes. Route was East Ridge. BC was on Barun Glacier (near a lake near "c" on Schneider map). Then to east and north of point 6220m with C1 on snow glacier northwest of point 6220m at 5650m; then onto ridge west of Col which is west of point 6220m, along East Ridge to NE Face, up NE Face until it came out onto North Ridge at about 7000m, finally North Ridge to summit. Pasang, Dr Morandeira and Blanchard climbed to point 6220m from northwest on 27 April to take photos of summit team. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 7 May 80 Summit from east side, above C3 on North Face. On 27 April Started from C3 established 25 April at 6600m at 2:00 am. Reached top at 1:00 pm and stayed 1-1/2 hours (took photos), returned to C3 at 6:30 pm. Summiters: 1) Jeramino Lopez Martinez, 1951 2) Javier Escartin Orus, 1949 3) Lorenzo Ortas Pont, 1953 4) Carlos Buhler, 1954 On 28 April summit left 1:30 am from C3 and reached top 6:50 am, on top 1 hour, returned to C3 at 10:00 am. By: 1) Gonzalo Prado Vallero, 1955 2) Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa Weather on top clear both days. All health good except Lopez and Prado have frostbitten toes. Expedition finished. Letter dated 30/15. Lopez - 18 March 80 Baggage not yet in KTM. Truck to Dharan and then walk to BC in about 15-18 days with 125 porters. Baruntse BC 1 day above American Makalu BC. BC at foot of East Face at about 4900m. Route = NE Ridge, new route, over 2000m height with technical difficulties; will try use few ropes and 2-3 camps above BC with 1 at beginning of ridge and 2 more on ridge. If weather good 10-20 days climbing (acclimatization during approach and some members recently on high mountains so retain some acclimatization). 2 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Lhakpa Dorje. Oxygen medical only. Letter from BC - April 29, 1980 On the 27th of April two rope teams of Javier Escartin, Jeronimo Lopez, Carlos Buhler and Lorenzo Ortas reached the summit of Baruntse (7220m). The next day a third rope team of Gonzalo Prado and Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa also reached the summit. The expedition followed the previously East Ridge consisting of difficulties in rock and ice between 6000 and 6800m. Base camp was established at 5300m on April 7. We established three higher camps at 5600m, 6050m and 6600m. All the members and Sherpas are back in base camp and in good health.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449532
Year 1980
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e ridge-ne face-n ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Juan Jose Diaz Ibanez M 1928 Spain Leader Zaragoza, Spain Salesman Details Other expeditions
Juan Manuel Blanchard Galligo M 1949 Spain Climber Zaragoza, Spain Industrial engineer Details Other expeditions
Carlos Paltenghe Rockhold Buhler M 1954 USA Climber Bellingham, Washington Alpinist & ecologist Details Other expeditions
Javier Escartin Orus M 1949 Spain Climber Huesca, Spain Industrial engineer Details Other expeditions
Jeronimo Lopez Martinez M 1951 Spain Climbing Leader Zaragoza, Spain Geologist Details Other expeditions
Jose Ramon Morandeira Garcia-La Cruz M 1945 Spain Exp Doctor Zaragoza, Spain Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Lorenzo Ortas Pont M 1953 Spain Climber Huesca, Spain Agricultural technician Details Other expeditions
Gonzalo Prado Valero M 1955 Spain Climber Zaragoza, Spain Printer Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa M 1955 Nepal Sirdar Khunde, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
BARU80101 HJ Diaz, J. J. Baruntse (7220m) - 37:152-153 (1979-80) -
BARU80101 AAJ Lopez, Jeronimo - - 55:247 (1981) -
BARU80101 MM - - - 74:14 (Jul 1980) -
BARU80101 - Diaz Ibaniz, Juan Jose Expedicion Aragonesa al Himalaya Expedition, Zaragoza, Spain - D228
BARU80101 DAV - - - 106:158-159 (1981) -
BARU80101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198124700/Asia-Nepal-Baruntse-East-Ridge - - -
BARU80101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/37/30/expeditions-and-notes-37/ - - -