Baruntse | 1964 SE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Baruntse in 1964 via SE Ridge, led by Hirotoshi Fukuda. Summit reached on 9th May 1964. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2526
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID BARU64101
Peak ID BARU
Year 1964
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Hirotoshi Fukuda
Sponsor Rikkio University
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Dharan->Sedua->Barun Glacier (BC)->Sherpani Col->Barun Plateau
Basecamp Date 1964-04-11
Summit Date 1964-05-09
Summit Time -
Summit Days 28
Total Days 41
Termination Date 1964-05-22
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7150m due to dangerous cornices
High Point (m) 7150
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Pethangtse (PETH-641-01), attempted Hongku Chuli (Pyramid Peak) (HNKU-641-01)
Campsites BC1(11/04,5150m),BC2(12/04,5300m),C1(5750m),C2.ABC(6100m),C3(6600m),xxx(09/05,7150m)
Route Notes Endo & Okura Pethangtse climbed by Yamanoi and Okura and 2 Sherpas Ang Dawa and Lhokpa Norbu May 16. Not so difficult to climb but that day very strong wind so stayed summit only long enough take photos. From highest camp 5700m to summit took 7 hours up. Different route from Hillary's west side: used south side which very steep and big crevasses midway up. All 4 members arrived yesterday 4 pm. All well. Stay KTM about 1 week, then perhaps Yamanoi goes to Dharan. No expedition members had accident or illness. Some Sherpas and Liaison Officer got high altitude sickness, sirdar so badly that expedition asked telegram be sent from Namche for helicopter, but telegram never received in KTM. Hirotoshi Fukuda - 6 July 64 Fukuda alone in Kathmandu; others left Namche yesterday so ETA Kathmandu about 20th. Not able to reach Baruntse summit because very much snow, unstable final route and very dangerous cornices. Highest 7150m point expedition reached only 70m from summit but here stopped by only cornices and pinnacles above. May 9th reached highest point. Okura and Endo who climbed Pethangtse then May 11th began attack Pethangtse. 13th Fukuda left camp and learned of success May 16th from mailrunner. Pethangtse also difficult though at first seemed easy. Here too much snow already lying on mountain and had to clear it away. At 6030m was great crevasse which was very difficult to cross - Yamanoi and Okura. Fukuda has to return to Japan quickly to teach (teaches German literature). Leaves KTM June 9, RNAC to Calcutta, arrives in Tokyo sometime before 15th after few days business in Calcutta. No members accidents or illnesses. 6 March 64 Pethangtse Himal, 22,800 ft, May 16 by Takeo Yamanoi Masami Okura Ang Dawa III Lhakpa Norbu Baruntse attempted first but unsuccessful, then tried Pethangtse. From liaison officer to Foreign Ministry. Baruntse - 23,688 ft. First successful ascent by party of Hillary 1954 expedition expedition. (High In the Thin Cold Air, p 225). (see also Mt. Everest) Application to HMG Rikkio University (also St. Pauls University, same institution) of Tokyo sponsor; financed by University and members. Rikkio University Himalayan Expedition scientific explorer and research to Makalu I (8470m): topography, geological and atmospheric conditions of Barun glacier area: also enroute for Arun River and Jogbani Dhankuta to base study language, folklore, flora and fauna; from base camp at 4500m will attempt scale Baruntse (7184m). 5 members including leader: Hirotoshi Fukuda, 36, assistant professor at Rikkio University Takeo Yamanoi, 29, director of Rikkio Alpine Club (member of 1959 Himalchuli Exp). Masami Okura, 23 Takeshi Kishino, 23 Taiji Endo, works in Hilton Hotel, Tokyo
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2443684
Year 1964
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hirotoshi Fukuda M 1927 Japan Leader Japan Assistant professor of German Literature, Rikkio University Details Other expeditions
Takeo Yamanoi M 1934 Japan Deputy Leader Sano, Tochigi, Japan Assistant at Rikkio University and oil salesman Details Other expeditions
Masami Okura M 1940 Japan Manager Tokyo, Japan Working with Tokyo Electrical Co. Details Other expeditions
Takeshi Kishino M - Japan Climber Japan Machine company salesman Details Other expeditions
Taiji Endo M - Japan Climber Japan Works in Hilton Hotel, Tokyo Details Other expeditions
Nami Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Tharkay Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
BARU64101 AAJ Yoshizawa, Ichiro - - 39:463-464 (1965) -
BARU64101 JAC Endo, Taiji An Expedition to Barun Valley, 1964 - 60:11-12 (1965) -
BARU64101 JAC Endo, Taiji An Expedition to Barun Valley, 1964 - 60:101-111 (1965) -
BARU64101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196546302/Asia-Nepal-Pethangste-Barun-Glacier - - -