Baruntse | 2012 SW Ridge from W

A Japan expedition to Baruntse in 2012 via SW Ridge from W, led by Ryuseki Hiraoka. Summit reached on 28th April 2012. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 7412
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID BARU12101
Peak ID BARU
Year 2012
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge from W
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Ryuseki Hiraoka
Sponsor Mountain Experience Baruntse Expedition 2012
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach From Makalu BC
Basecamp Date 2012-04-15
Summit Date 2012-04-28
Summit Time -
Summit Days 13
Total Days 16
Termination Date 2012-05-01
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6900
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 1600
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(15/04,4700m),ABC(19/04,5700m),C1.Sherpas(20/04,6000m),C1.Mbrs(26/04,6000m),C2(27/04,6500m),xxx(28/04,6900m)
Route Notes BC at Makalu BC ABC just at end of East Col C1 just on east side of West Col C2 on SE Ridge on flat area High point almost to summit. Report from E. Hawley: The team sent three members and three Sherpas in their summit team, and the party got so close to the top -- they reached perhaps 7100m on their 7129m high mountain -- that they declared they had summited. But they had stopped when they confronted a huge crevasse on the SE Ridge that was three or four meters across the full width of the ridge [other teams placed this crevasse at 6900m]. The members of the party were Hiraoka, Ms. Takiguchi, Wariishi, Dawa Chhiri, Pemba Chhiri and Nawang Gechoo. They had left C2 at 5:30 am on 28 April, and at about 11:30 am had reached the crevasse and decided they had summited. They returned to C1 at 4:30 pm for the night. Their approach route had been the unusual one of approaching from the east. Their BC had been Makalu BC at 4700m. Now on their return from Baruntse, they descended to the usual Baruntse BC site across the West Col at 5500m on the west side of the Col near a lake. Two members were not in the summit party: Ms. Shirai stopped her ascent at C2 because she was too tired to carry on. She waited for the summit party and descended with them. Toji had fallen on 15 April when he was about 200m below BC and had injured his ribs. He continued to C1 on the 26th with the team, but after sleeping there that night, he went down to their future BC near the lake, and left the expedition. Sherpas in summit party: Dawa Chhiri, 20/2/67, Kurima, Lokhim, Solu, Cho Oyu X3, Dhaulagiri I X1, Everest X3, Makalu X2, Manaslu X2 Pemba Chhiri, 10/10/75? 18/10/75?, Kurima, Lokhim, Solu, Everest Nawang Gechho, 41 yrs old, Lokhim-9, Solu Report from B. Bierling: Team left C2 on 28 Apr at 5:30 am. They were the only people on the mountain. When they reached the crevasse at about 7029m at 11:45 am they tried to work out how to cross it. However as they had no ladders, they quickly decided to abandon the expedition as it was impossible to get over. They descended to C1 where they arrived at 4:40 pm. The following day they descended to BC and they left BC on 1 May. Shigeo Toji reached C1 on 26 Apr. During their approach to BC he slipped and fell and bruised his chest. He never recovered from it. Ms. Kazumi Shirai reached C2. She had not been feeling well during their ascent and decided to wait for the team to come back from their summit attempt at C2.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Mountain Experience
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2461253
Year 2012
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge from w

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ryuseki Hiraoka M 1968 Japan Leader Hokuto, Yamanashi, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Kazumi Shirai F 1943 Japan Climber Itami, Hyogo, Japan Retired housewife Details Other expeditions
Kiyomi Takiguchi F 1948 Japan Climber Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Retired Details Other expeditions
Shigeo Toji M 1943 Japan Climber Tsuruga, Fukui, Japan Retired engineer Details Other expeditions
Soichiro Wariishi M 1942 Japan Climber Awa, Tokushima, Japan Retired banker Details Other expeditions
Dawa Chhiri (Dawa Tsiri) Sherpa M 1967 Nepal H-A Worker Kurima, Lokhim-9, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Chhiri Sherpa M 1975 Nepal H-A Worker Kurima, Lokhim-9, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Nawang Gechwo Sherpa M 1972 Nepal H-A Worker Kurima, Lokhim-9, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.