Bamongo | 2013 SW Face-SW Ridge

A Austria expedition to Bamongo in 2013 via SW Face-SW Ridge, led by Mingma Gyalje Sherpa. Summit reached on 30th October 2013. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 8330
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID BAMO13301
Peak ID BAMO
Year 2013
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face-SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Austria
Leaders Mingma Gyalje Sherpa
Sponsor Mt. Bamongo First Ascent Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries China, Nepal
Approach By bus to Gongur Khola, trek to Beding->Na
Basecamp Date 2013-10-27
Summit Date 2013-10-30
Summit Time 1445
Summit Days 3
Total Days 6
Termination Date 2013-11-02
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 300
Total Members 4
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(27/10,4800m),Biv(29/10,5400m),Smt(30/10)
Route Notes The intended leader of the team was Josef Einwaller, an Austrian climber who had led two unsuccessful attempts on this 6400m mountain in the Gaurishankar Himal in the autumn of 2010 and the following spring. But a problem with his leg stopped him from reaching Kathmandu this autumn. With him on the previous attempts was Wulf Kruetschnigg, who did join this autumn's climb. Also on this climb were a Chinese member, Liu Yong (called Daliu), who was added by the leader Mingma Gyalje. They had one hired Sherpa, Pema Tshering. Their approach to Bamongo began with a bus ride from Kathmandu to Gongurkhola on the first day, then a trek for four days via Beding and Nagaon in the Rolwaling Valley to BC at the foot of the SW Face which they established on 27 October. They began their climb the day after setting up BC. They moved up slightly to the left of the SW Face up a ridge or pillar to its top, then on the face itself to the SW Ridge which led to the summit. They carried some gear to 5400m, then descended to BC because of a storm on the 28th. On the 29th they climbed back up to 5440m with a tent and bivouacked there. They woke up at 3:40 am on 30 October, left the tent at 5:00 am, climbed to the summit at 14:45, returned to BC at 9:30 pm the same day, having climbed so fast "that we didn't even have time to eat and drink," according to Liu. They had accomplished the first ascent of the mountain. They climbed without fixed rope; the three summiters, Liu, Mingma Gyalje and Pema Tshering, tied up in one 60-meter rope. The face generally slanted at 40 to 60 degrees with the last 30 meters to the summit ridge at almost 80 to 90 degrees. The final ridge was a sharp knife-edge ridge with very soft snow; they climbed five pitches with little protection, "then another more than one hour running belay without protection because of soft snow," according Liu. The Austrian member, Wulf Kruetschnigg, had taken no part in this pioneering climb. But on 1 November Mingma Gyalje tried to guide him to the top with Phurba Tenzing. They did fix rope, about 300 meters of it, but they turned back at 5900m because it was too steep for the Austrian. "I am 69 and not an extreme mountain climber; it was just the right amount of climbing for me," he explained in an email. Sherpa: Pema Tshering, 17/12/83 (2/9/2040), Beding
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Dreamers Destination Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2461759
Year 2013
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face-sw ridge

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Wulf Julius Viktor Kruetschnigg M 1944 Austria Climber Kitzbuehel, Tirol, Austria Sunglasses wholesaler Details Other expeditions
Yong (Daliu) Liu M 1969 China Climber Chengdu, Sichuan, China Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Mingma Gyalje Sherpa M 1986 Nepal Leader Beding, Dolakha Alpinist & trekking agent Details Other expeditions
Phurba Tenzing Sherpa M 1988 Nepal Climber Beding, Dolakha Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Pema Chhiring/Chhiri Sherpa M 1983 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha High altitude worker Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
BAMO13301 JAN Liu, Yong China-Nepal Team Summit 6,400m Bamongo in Nepal - 15:73-75 (2014) -
BAMO13301 AAJ Liu, Yong - - 88:311-312 (2014) -
BAMO13301 - - http://www.bamongo.blogspot.com - - -
BAMO13301 AJ - - - 118:297 (2014) -
BAMO13301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212615/Bamongo-6400m-south-face-and-west-ridge-second-ascent-partial-new-route - - -
BAMO13301 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2014_files/AJ%202014%20293-297%20Nepal%20Notes.pdf - - -