Api Main | 1996 S(E) Face
A Slovenia expedition to Api Main in 1996 via S(E) Face, led by Roman Robas. Summit reached on 4th November 1996. 13 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1924 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | APIM96301 |
| Peak ID | APIM |
| Year | 1996 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S(E) Face |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Slovenia |
| Leaders | Roman Robas |
| Sponsor | Slovenian Three Peaks Expedition 1996 to Api, Bobaye and Nampa |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 6th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1996-10-16 |
| Summit Date | 1996-11-04 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 19 |
| Total Days | 24 |
| Termination Date | 1996-11-09 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7132 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 0 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 12 |
| Summit Members | 2 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Climbed Bobaye (BOBA-963-01) and Nampa (NAMP-963-01) |
| Campsites | BC(16/10,3650m),Smt(04/11) |
| Route Notes | BC west of Bobaye, south of Api Really no fixed camps (divided from start into 3 teams for 3 mountains and climbed alpine-style with bivouacs). One BC for all 3 mountain, but separate depots, which were used also to study routes but not really used as ABCs. Climbed 3 mountains simultaneously after 1 week's snowfall and wind delayed attempts. Debelak, Meglic and Zerovnik from BC 31 Oct to depot at 4500m. 1 Nov started up at 3:30 am via right side of glacier found rock pyramid with icefall to right side so climbed up a small rock face further night and down it 200m to snow slope to first biv at 5300m at small plateau; actually climbed 80m above biv site to fix ice climbing rope in this section (where found 2 British pitons + British rope found later higher up). 2 Nov started 6:30 am in good weather following 1 Nov afternoon snowy and windy; traversed left from biv 250m and up small snow ridge to 5800m (1500-2000m line on distance) and biv here after 10 cm new snow fell and couldn't see route above. 3 Nov started 9:00 am after drying sleeping bags, tents and clothes in sun: up to right side of big seracs (a bit below which found British rope) and straight ahead up another serac and traverse right and reached biv at 2:00 pm at 6050m; knew there was no place for biv higher; this night Zerovnik sick (fever & chills) so on 4 Nov Debelek and Meglic started at 1:00 am, traversed crevasse is very cold wind and constant small avalanches (made breathing difficult); finally 300m snow to mixed snow-thin rock area up to Western plateau to top. Were on SE Face (which British in Autumn 1992 same route called South Face) to final 500 linear meters (20 vertical meters) up plateau. Descended same route moving quickly in strong wind and slept 4 Nov in 6050m biv where Zerovnik had stayed. 5 Nov to BC all 3 together. |
| Accidents | Ice destroyed tent Stremfelj and Prezelj were in on 22 Oct at 4400m foot of Api; Stremfelj arm hurt & Prezelj leg near ankle broken |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Wilderness Experience |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2455493 |
| Year | 1996 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | s(e) face |
Members
13 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dusan Debelak | M | 1966 | Slovenia | Climber | Sentjur, Slovenia | Electrician | Details Other expeditions |
| Tomaz Humar | M | 1969 | Slovenia | Climber (Bobaye) | Kamnik, Slovenia | Electrician | Details Other expeditions |
| Jernej Grudnik | M | 1972 | Slovenia | Climber (Bobaye) | Ljubno ob Savinji, Slovenia | Student | Details Other expeditions |
| Matija (Matic) Jost | M | 1971 | Slovenia | Climber (Nampa) | Zalec, Slovenia | Geodesy student | Details Other expeditions |
| Janko Meglic | M | 1965 | Slovenia | Climber | Trzic, Slovenia | Car mechanic | Details Other expeditions |
| Peter Meznar | M | 1972 | Slovenia | Climber (Nampa) | Tolmin, Slovenia | Mechanical engineering student | Details Other expeditions |
| Marko Prezelj | M | 1965 | Slovenia | Climber | Kamnik, Slovenia | Chemical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Roman Robas | M | 1942 | Slovenia | Leader | Medvode, Slovenia | Mechanical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Bostjan Slatensek | M | 1971 | Slovenia | Climber | Poljcane, Slovenia | History student | Details Other expeditions |
| Franc Srakar | M | 1930 | Slovenia | Exp Doctor | Ljubljana, Slovenia | Retired surgeon | Details Other expeditions |
| Andrej Stremfelj | M | 1956 | Slovenia | Climber | Kranj, Slovenia | Sports teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Tomaz Zerovnik | M | 1967 | Slovenia | Climber | Koper, Slovenia | Computer technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Mingma Tenzing Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Sirdar | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
6 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| APIM96301 | AAJ | Robas, Roman | Api, Nampa, Bobaye | - | 71:13-20 (1997) | - |
| APIM96301 | AAJ | - | - | - | 71:285 (1997) | - |
| APIM96301 | HIGH | - | - | - | 175:81-83 (Jun 1997) | - |
| APIM96301 | - | McDonald, Bernadette | Tomaz Humar | Hutchinson, London | - | - |
| APIM96301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199728503/Asia-Nepal-Api-and-Nampa-New-Routes-and-Bobaye-First-Ascent | - | - | - |
| APIM96301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199701300/Api-Bobaye-Nampa-The-1996-Slovenian-Three-Peaks-Expedition | - | - | - |