Api Main | 1996 S(E) Face

A Slovenia expedition to Api Main in 1996 via S(E) Face, led by Roman Robas. Summit reached on 4th November 1996. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1924
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID APIM96301
Peak ID APIM
Year 1996
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S(E) Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Slovenia
Leaders Roman Robas
Sponsor Slovenian Three Peaks Expedition 1996 to Api, Bobaye and Nampa
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 6th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1996-10-16
Summit Date 1996-11-04
Summit Time -
Summit Days 19
Total Days 24
Termination Date 1996-11-09
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7132
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 12
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Bobaye (BOBA-963-01) and Nampa (NAMP-963-01)
Campsites BC(16/10,3650m),Smt(04/11)
Route Notes BC west of Bobaye, south of Api Really no fixed camps (divided from start into 3 teams for 3 mountains and climbed alpine-style with bivouacs). One BC for all 3 mountain, but separate depots, which were used also to study routes but not really used as ABCs. Climbed 3 mountains simultaneously after 1 week's snowfall and wind delayed attempts. Debelak, Meglic and Zerovnik from BC 31 Oct to depot at 4500m. 1 Nov started up at 3:30 am via right side of glacier found rock pyramid with icefall to right side so climbed up a small rock face further night and down it 200m to snow slope to first biv at 5300m at small plateau; actually climbed 80m above biv site to fix ice climbing rope in this section (where found 2 British pitons + British rope found later higher up). 2 Nov started 6:30 am in good weather following 1 Nov afternoon snowy and windy; traversed left from biv 250m and up small snow ridge to 5800m (1500-2000m line on distance) and biv here after 10 cm new snow fell and couldn't see route above. 3 Nov started 9:00 am after drying sleeping bags, tents and clothes in sun: up to right side of big seracs (a bit below which found British rope) and straight ahead up another serac and traverse right and reached biv at 2:00 pm at 6050m; knew there was no place for biv higher; this night Zerovnik sick (fever & chills) so on 4 Nov Debelek and Meglic started at 1:00 am, traversed crevasse is very cold wind and constant small avalanches (made breathing difficult); finally 300m snow to mixed snow-thin rock area up to Western plateau to top. Were on SE Face (which British in Autumn 1992 same route called South Face) to final 500 linear meters (20 vertical meters) up plateau. Descended same route moving quickly in strong wind and slept 4 Nov in 6050m biv where Zerovnik had stayed. 5 Nov to BC all 3 together.
Accidents Ice destroyed tent Stremfelj and Prezelj were in on 22 Oct at 4400m foot of Api; Stremfelj arm hurt & Prezelj leg near ankle broken
Achievement -
Agency Wilderness Experience
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2455493
Year 1996
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s(e) face

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Dusan Debelak M 1966 Slovenia Climber Sentjur, Slovenia Electrician Details Other expeditions
Tomaz Humar M 1969 Slovenia Climber (Bobaye) Kamnik, Slovenia Electrician Details Other expeditions
Jernej Grudnik M 1972 Slovenia Climber (Bobaye) Ljubno ob Savinji, Slovenia Student Details Other expeditions
Matija (Matic) Jost M 1971 Slovenia Climber (Nampa) Zalec, Slovenia Geodesy student Details Other expeditions
Janko Meglic M 1965 Slovenia Climber Trzic, Slovenia Car mechanic Details Other expeditions
Peter Meznar M 1972 Slovenia Climber (Nampa) Tolmin, Slovenia Mechanical engineering student Details Other expeditions
Marko Prezelj M 1965 Slovenia Climber Kamnik, Slovenia Chemical engineer Details Other expeditions
Roman Robas M 1942 Slovenia Leader Medvode, Slovenia Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Bostjan Slatensek M 1971 Slovenia Climber Poljcane, Slovenia History student Details Other expeditions
Franc Srakar M 1930 Slovenia Exp Doctor Ljubljana, Slovenia Retired surgeon Details Other expeditions
Andrej Stremfelj M 1956 Slovenia Climber Kranj, Slovenia Sports teacher Details Other expeditions
Tomaz Zerovnik M 1967 Slovenia Climber Koper, Slovenia Computer technician Details Other expeditions
Mingma Tenzing Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
APIM96301 AAJ Robas, Roman Api, Nampa, Bobaye - 71:13-20 (1997) -
APIM96301 AAJ - - - 71:285 (1997) -
APIM96301 HIGH - - - 175:81-83 (Jun 1997) -
APIM96301 - McDonald, Bernadette Tomaz Humar Hutchinson, London - -
APIM96301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199728503/Asia-Nepal-Api-and-Nampa-New-Routes-and-Bobaye-First-Ascent - - -
APIM96301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199701300/Api-Bobaye-Nampa-The-1996-Slovenian-Three-Peaks-Expedition - - -