Api Main | 1983 NW Ridge

A Poland expedition to Api Main in 1983 via NW Ridge, led by Tadeusz Piotrowski. Summit reached on 24th December 1983. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 155
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID APIM83401
Peak ID APIM
Year 1983
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Poland
Leaders Tadeusz Piotrowski
Sponsor Polish Himalaya Winter Expedition to Api
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 4th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1983-12-10
Summit Date 1983-12-24
Summit Time 1800
Summit Days 14
Total Days 19
Termination Date 1983-12-29
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7132
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(10/12,3200m),ABC(12/12,4200m),C1(14/12,5100m),C2(20/12,5900m),Biv1(22/12,6300m),Biv2(23/12,6500m),Smt(24/12)
Route Notes 22 Dec Bielun, Piotrowski and Terlikowski left C2 on summit push. Biv at 6300m, next day biv at 6500m (very long distance from 1st biv and very strong wind). 24 Dec left biv at 10:00 am in strong wind but not roped together since no route. Terlikowski at 5:00 pm decided return to biv tent and did so alone. Bielun was seen to reach top 1-1/2 hours before Piotrowski. Very strong wind and darkness: when Piotrowski reached top about 7:30 pm on hands and knees did not meet Bielun and did not know what happened to him. Piotrowski fell 2m in descent and stopped descent, prepared snow for biv at 6:00 am. Only Terlikowski in tent and they waited 2-1/2 days. 27th in snowstorm Piotrowski and Terlikowski went down. Route was ridge to last biv which was at start of snow done. Not so very difficult: 300m fixed rope from C1 to little above C2 on ice. Bielun blown away, maybe in dark lost his way, maybe fell - do not know. 25 Dec fog and snowfall in which could see only 20m and impossible to look for him. [On Dec 28 Gocyka, Jedlinski and Kowalewski climbed a nearby subpeak of 6070m above C2 to look for Bielun.] Banskota, Tourism - 8 Jan 84 2 members of 1st summit team: Tadeusz Piotrowski, 1940, economist, Szczecin Andrzej Bielun, 1946, Gdynia, tester of food articles Summit 24 Dec; Bielun at 6:00 pm on top and Piotrowski at 7:30 pm via NW Face. The 2 started from C3 (altitude?). While descending from Bielun blown away by strong wind. With help of Zbigniew Terlikowski, the leader searched for Bielun for 2-1/2 days but not found. 3rd man Terlikowski tried for top but strong winds stopped him 2 hours short of top. 1st group started from BC 13 Dec and 2nd group on 14 Dec to top C1 5200m C2 5800m reached by others No mention of expedition finished BC 3300m
Accidents Bielun disappeared
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450781
Year 1983
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw ridge

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Andrzej Bielun M 1946 Poland Climber Gdynia, Poland Food tester Details Other expeditions
Jacek Gocyka M 1954 Poland Climber Dabrowa Gornicza, Katowice, Poland Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Wojciech Jedlinski M 1946 Poland Climber Lodz, Poland Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Tadeusz Piotrowski M 1940 Poland Leader Szczecin, Poland Writer Details Other expeditions
Marek Rudnicki M 1948 Poland Exp Doctor Katowice, Poland Writer Details Other expeditions
Eugeniusz Skurowski M 1948 Poland Climber Chorzow, Poland Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Zbigniew Terlikowski M 1951 Poland Climber Dabrowa Gornicza, Katowice, Poland Mining engineer Details Other expeditions
Ryszard Kowalewski M 1942 Poland Climber Gdansk, Poland Artist (painter) Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
APIM83401 AAJ Nyka, Jozef - - 58:262-263 (1984) -
APIM83401 HJ Piotrowski, Tadeusz The Winter Expedition to Api - 41:55-60 (1983-1984) -
APIM83401 MM - - - 96:12 (Mar 1984) -
APIM83401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198426204/Asia-Nepal-Api-Winter-Ascent-and-Tragedy - - -
APIM83401 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/41/9/the-winter-expendition-to-api/ - - -