Api Main | 1983 NW Ridge
A Poland expedition to Api Main in 1983 via NW Ridge, led by Tadeusz Piotrowski. Summit reached on 24th December 1983. 8 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 155 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | APIM83401 |
| Peak ID | APIM |
| Year | 1983 |
| Season | 4 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | NW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Poland |
| Leaders | Tadeusz Piotrowski |
| Sponsor | Polish Himalaya Winter Expedition to Api |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 4th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1983-12-10 |
| Summit Date | 1983-12-24 |
| Summit Time | 1800 |
| Summit Days | 14 |
| Total Days | 19 |
| Termination Date | 1983-12-29 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7132 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 2 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 8 |
| Summit Members | 2 |
| Member Deaths | 1 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(10/12,3200m),ABC(12/12,4200m),C1(14/12,5100m),C2(20/12,5900m),Biv1(22/12,6300m),Biv2(23/12,6500m),Smt(24/12) |
| Route Notes | 22 Dec Bielun, Piotrowski and Terlikowski left C2 on summit push. Biv at 6300m, next day biv at 6500m (very long distance from 1st biv and very strong wind). 24 Dec left biv at 10:00 am in strong wind but not roped together since no route. Terlikowski at 5:00 pm decided return to biv tent and did so alone. Bielun was seen to reach top 1-1/2 hours before Piotrowski. Very strong wind and darkness: when Piotrowski reached top about 7:30 pm on hands and knees did not meet Bielun and did not know what happened to him. Piotrowski fell 2m in descent and stopped descent, prepared snow for biv at 6:00 am. Only Terlikowski in tent and they waited 2-1/2 days. 27th in snowstorm Piotrowski and Terlikowski went down. Route was ridge to last biv which was at start of snow done. Not so very difficult: 300m fixed rope from C1 to little above C2 on ice. Bielun blown away, maybe in dark lost his way, maybe fell - do not know. 25 Dec fog and snowfall in which could see only 20m and impossible to look for him. [On Dec 28 Gocyka, Jedlinski and Kowalewski climbed a nearby subpeak of 6070m above C2 to look for Bielun.] Banskota, Tourism - 8 Jan 84 2 members of 1st summit team: Tadeusz Piotrowski, 1940, economist, Szczecin Andrzej Bielun, 1946, Gdynia, tester of food articles Summit 24 Dec; Bielun at 6:00 pm on top and Piotrowski at 7:30 pm via NW Face. The 2 started from C3 (altitude?). While descending from Bielun blown away by strong wind. With help of Zbigniew Terlikowski, the leader searched for Bielun for 2-1/2 days but not found. 3rd man Terlikowski tried for top but strong winds stopped him 2 hours short of top. 1st group started from BC 13 Dec and 2nd group on 14 Dec to top C1 5200m C2 5800m reached by others No mention of expedition finished BC 3300m |
| Accidents | Bielun disappeared |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Asian Trekking |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2450781 |
| Year | 1983 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | nw ridge |
Members
8 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Andrzej Bielun | M | 1946 | Poland | Climber | Gdynia, Poland | Food tester | Details Other expeditions |
| Jacek Gocyka | M | 1954 | Poland | Climber | Dabrowa Gornicza, Katowice, Poland | Mechanical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Wojciech Jedlinski | M | 1946 | Poland | Climber | Lodz, Poland | Alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Tadeusz Piotrowski | M | 1940 | Poland | Leader | Szczecin, Poland | Writer | Details Other expeditions |
| Marek Rudnicki | M | 1948 | Poland | Exp Doctor | Katowice, Poland | Writer | Details Other expeditions |
| Eugeniusz Skurowski | M | 1948 | Poland | Climber | Chorzow, Poland | Mechanical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Zbigniew Terlikowski | M | 1951 | Poland | Climber | Dabrowa Gornicza, Katowice, Poland | Mining engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Ryszard Kowalewski | M | 1942 | Poland | Climber | Gdansk, Poland | Artist (painter) | Details Other expeditions |
References
5 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| APIM83401 | AAJ | Nyka, Jozef | - | - | 58:262-263 (1984) | - |
| APIM83401 | HJ | Piotrowski, Tadeusz | The Winter Expedition to Api | - | 41:55-60 (1983-1984) | - |
| APIM83401 | MM | - | - | - | 96:12 (Mar 1984) | - |
| APIM83401 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198426204/Asia-Nepal-Api-Winter-Ascent-and-Tragedy | - | - | - |
| APIM83401 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/41/9/the-winter-expendition-to-api/ | - | - | - |