Api Main | 1978 E Ridge

A Italy expedition to Api Main in 1978 via E Ridge, led by Renato Moro. Summit reached on 16th October 1978. 14 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2158
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID APIM78301
Peak ID APIM
Year 1978
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Renato Moro
Sponsor Milan Expedition to Mt. Api
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 3rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pithoragarh->Chamlia Khola
Basecamp Date 1978-09-29
Summit Date 1978-10-16
Summit Time 1400
Summit Days 17
Total Days 21
Termination Date 1978-10-20
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7132
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 14
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(29/09,3700m),C1(4980m),C2(10/10,5650m),C3(13/10,6300m),Smt(16/10)
Route Notes Bianchi - 7 Nov 78 BC about 3900m at end Sept. C1 under South Face of East Ridge not (secondary summit), maybe called Nampa I (Pt 6700m at about 4980m). C2 about 10 Oct at about 5650m. C3 on 13 Oct at 6300m probably correct. Summit news correct: 16 Oct team only attempt for summit. No more summit attempts because C1 to top: C1 to C2 = glacier (little dangerous because of slides), C2 to top technical difficulties with very steep mixed rock and ice C3 to top. Camp altitudes maybe too low from C3 to summit more than 700m or about 700m vertically. 4 summiters left C3 5:00 or 6:00 am and reached top about 2:00 pm. Lack of time also prevented other summit attempt and Sherpas going above C3; took longer to reach BC than expected and then took time to determine route. No accident, illness and frostbite. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 3 Nov 78 Summit 16 Oct at 2:00 pm 1) Cesa Bianchi 2) Angelo Rocca 3) Maurizio Maggi 4) Vittorio Tamagni Cloudy on summit; while descending, Maggi slipped few meters, but climber roped to him pulled him up and no serious injury. C3 and C2 evacuated on 17th and on 18th all in BC; left BC 20th. C3 6300m 13 Oct on East Ridge of Api. Shailendra Raj Sharma - 8 Oct 78 Api Base Camp established 29 Sept at 3700m Tedeschi - 8 Sept 78 South Face to see, then choose route. Think can try SW Ridge, route of Japanese in 1971 and 1973. Permission for South Face which is full of seracs, so must find route free of danger and this may mean SW or SE Ridge. Approach march via Chamlia Khola. BC could be any place south of Api depending on what they find as BC site and as route. BC about 4000-4500m. On 3000m of face need 5 or 6 camps but depends on problems of the climb. 4 Sherpas above BC. No oxygen for climbing and sleeping, only 2 little bottles for medical use. 13 climbers and 1 doctor. Leave 13 Sept from Delhi and enter Nepal at Pitoragath, arrive BC about 30 Sept. Summit after 3-4 weeks of climbing. No members may come to KTM after climbing finished; depends on whether have any time left. Culola Naionale D' Alta Montagna via Silvio Pellico 6, Milano (address of Milan section of Italian Alpine Club) Milan Expedition to Mt. Api The four summiters reached the top in cloudy weather at 2:00 pm on 16th October, according to the spokesman. Presumably they went to the top from the expedition's Camp 3, which had been pitched at 6300m on Api's East Ridge three days earlier. While descending from the summit, Maggi slipped and fell a few meters, but the colleague to whom he was roped was able to arrest his fall, and Maggi sustained only minor injuries. (The colleague's name is not known here). Camps 3 and 2 (5650 meters) were evacuated on 17 October and all members safely in BC on 18th October. The team left BC on 20th October on their journey home.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448881
Year 1978
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e ridge

Members

14 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Alberto Bianchi M 1949 Italy Climber Milano, Italy University professor of hydraulic engineering Details Other expeditions
Rolando Canuti M 1941 Italy Climber Cinisello Balsamo, Milano, Italy Technician (technical designer of equipment) Details Other expeditions
Claudio Cavenago M 1951 Italy Exp Doctor Milano, Italy Physician (orthopedics) Details Other expeditions
Cesare Cesa Bianchi M 1950 Italy Climber Milano, Italy University student of mathematics Details Other expeditions
Luigi Leccardi M 1948 Italy Climber Milano, Italy Technician, repairs trams Details Other expeditions
Maurizio Maggi M 1953 Italy Climber Milano, Italy Degree in electronic engineering, but unemployed Details Other expeditions
Natale Meschini M 1947 Italy Climber Milano, Italy Clerk in clothing shop Details Other expeditions
Renato Moro M 1946 Italy Leader Milano, Italy Electronic technician at Honeywell computer factory in Milan Details Other expeditions
Marco Polo M 1944 Italy Deputy Leader Milano, Italy Policeman Details Other expeditions
Angelo Rocca M 1940 Italy Climber Cinisello Balsamo, Milano, Italy Driver of armoured cars for a bank Details Other expeditions
Giampiero Rodari M 1941 Italy Climber Bussero, Milano, Italy Scientific director (physicist in electronics factory) Details Other expeditions
Vittorio Tamagni M 1953 Italy Climber Milano, Italy Surveyor (quit his job before coming on expedition) Details Other expeditions
Marco Tedeschi M 1953 Italy Climber Milano, Italy Chemical engineer Details Other expeditions
Franco Villa M 1947 Italy Climber Milano, Italy Architect Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
APIM78301 AAJ Moro, Renato - - 53:278-280 (1979) -
APIM78301 HJ Moro, Renato The Italian Expedition to Mount Api - 36:184-185 (1978-79) -
APIM78301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197927804/Asia-Nepal-Api-South-Face-and-East-Ridge - - -
APIM78301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/36/33/expeditions-and-notes-36/ - - -