Api Main | 1973 W Ridge

A Japan expedition to Api Main in 1973 via W Ridge, led by Kuniharu Ichikawa. Summit reached on 1st May 1973. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2349
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID APIM73101
Peak ID APIM
Year 1973
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Kuniharu Ichikawa
Sponsor Chuo University Api Expedition 1973
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1973-04-01
Summit Date 1973-05-01
Summit Time -
Summit Days 30
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6150m due to bad weather and climbing difficulties
High Point (m) 6150
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(01/04,4000m),C1(01/04,4800m),C4(29/04,6000m),xxx(01/05,6150m)
Route Notes Ichikawa & Hirota - 4 June 73 All members to Kathmandu today. 5 members reached highest point 6150m on 1 May. Bad weather: snow and everyday afternoon bad weather; only 6 hrs climbing time each day. Their ridge route very long. 30 days to reach C4 with time-consuming route-finding. 20 more days to reach summit and much hard work. They attacked West Ridge, very unknown ridge. We didn't know surface. Turned out to be rock and ice and very steep slope and everyday icefalls and rock fall; sometimes climb only 100m in one day. It's possible reach summit this route. Would like to try again and might be successful. Time: both Hirota and he want to try again after 2-3 yrs. All members and Sherpas unscathed, no yeti. Ichikawa, Moroi & Hirota - 23 Feb 73 All members arrive today. Probably same route on Api as 1971 Japanese, S Face, maybe W Ridge. Flight to Damgori early March - Baitadi leaving Dagari 4 or 5 March and reached base end March. 57 days from base to summit. 10 May we hope summit. 1971 no good weather; late reaching base and lots of rain. "I hope this year good weather" says leader, maybe now stronger team. 4 Sherpas & cook, kitchen boy & 2 mailrunners. Hope all members to summit.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446882
Year 1973
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kuniharu Ichikawa M 1940 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Interior decorating firm - staff member Details Other expeditions
Yasunori Hirota M 1943 Japan Deputy Leader Tokyo, Japan Staff member, Nakamura Electric Industry Details Other expeditions
Yoonsuke Moroi M 1941 Japan BC Manager Tokyo, Japan Staff member, his father's firm selling petrolium products Details Other expeditions
Katsuyuki Kumano M 1943 Japan Climber Hiroshima, Japan Staff member, woolen goods, Chugoku Daiya Co. Details Other expeditions
Kiyoshi Oba M 1945 Japan Climber Nagano, Japan Staff member, motor car Co. Details Other expeditions
Takayoshi Ogawa M 1947 Japan Climber Kanagawa-ken, Japan Electric designer (Fuji Keiki Co.) Details Other expeditions
Kazunari Agio M 1946 Japan Climber Niigata, Japan Staff member, thread manufacturing & sales firm Details Other expeditions
Yoo Hamamoto M 1948 Japan Climber Kagoshima-ken, Japan Law student (Chuo University) Details Other expeditions
Masashi Kobayashi M - Japan Climber Hokkaido, Japan Economics student (Chuo University) Details Other expeditions
Ang Chotare Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
APIM73101 AAJ - - - 48:206 (1974) -
APIM73101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197420604/Asia-Nepal-Api-West-Ridge-Attempt - - -