Api Main | 1954 S Face (to 5850m)

A Italy expedition to Api Main in 1954 via S Face (to 5850m), led by Piero Ghiglione. Summit reached on 15th June 1954. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2663
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID APIM54101
Peak ID APIM
Year 1954
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face (to 5850m)
Route 2 NW Face/Ridge (to 7000m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Piero Ghiglione
Sponsor -
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date -
Summit Date 1954-06-15
Summit Time -
Summit Days 0
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7100m after two fatalities during summit attempt
High Point (m) 7100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 3
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites SouthBC(4025m),C1(5050m),xxx(5850m); NorthBC(08/06,4000m),C1(4650m),C2(13/06,5400m),C3(14/06,6150m),xxx(15/06,7100m)
Route Notes -
Accidents Rosenkrantz died of AMS; Barenghi disappeared; Bignami drowned in Chamlia Khola after falling off flimsy foot bridge on march to north side of Api
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2439968
Year 1954
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face (to 5850m)

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Piero Ghiglione M 1883 Italy Leader - - Details Other expeditions
Giuseppe (Beppe) Barenghi M - Italy Climber Milan, Italy - Details Other expeditions
Giorgio Rosenkrantz M - Italy Climber Torino, Italy - Details Other expeditions
Roberto Bignami M - Italy Climber Milan, Italy - Details Other expeditions
Gyaltsen Norbu Sherpa M 1918 India Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
APIM54101 - Ghiglione, Piero Erosismo e Tragedia Sul Monte Api Garzanti, Milano - G94
APIM54101 AAJ - - - 29:176-177 (1955) -
APIM54101 HJ - Professor Ghiglione's Expedition to Api - 19:176-179 (1955-56) -
APIM54101 MW Kurz, Marcel The Himalayan Chronicle 1954 - 124-128 (1955) -
APIM54101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12195517600/Asia-Nepal-Himalayas-Api - - -
APIM54101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/19/17/notes-and-expeditions/ - - -