Annapurna South | 1991 Left side of S Face

A New Zealand expedition to Annapurna South in 1991 via Left side of S Face, led by John Madgwick. Summit reached on 28th March 1991. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 758
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANNS91101
Peak ID ANNS
Year 1991
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 Left side of S Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality New Zealand
Leaders John Madgwick
Sponsor New Zealand Annapurna S Expedition 1991
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1991-03-15
Summit Date 1991-03-28
Summit Time -
Summit Days 13
Total Days 18
Termination Date 1991-04-02
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 5500m due to dangerous icefall
High Point (m) 5500
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites LowBC(15/03,3375m),BC(18/03,3700m),ABC(26/03,4250m),C1(27/03,5200m),xxx(28/03,5500m)
Route Notes Low BC at Kyummu Khola on old flat terminal moraine ABC at base of icefall High point at snow slopes at left side of South Face. Dismissed porters at low BC, 1 hour short proposed BC for climbers but dangerous for laden porters, who had few shoes & there was snow on ground and on west facing faces (knee deep on west side of ridge descending to Lower BC). Very dangerous face. Did acclimatization climbs to 4800m on nearby ridges 20 to 22 March, then snow fall, to ABC 26 March. One night at ABC. Decided to do route on left side of S Face, which has ridge down its middle and thus went up SSW Face and to left of this section of S Face. 28 March rested in heat till 5:00 pm started up at 6:00 pm and climbed up to snow slope at 9:30 am. Now LeSeuer decided didn't want to continue on this face exposed to ice cliffs for 6-8 more hours of climbing - ice cliffs had not fallen while New Zealanders were there but very dangerous potentially. Returned to ABC through icefall which had changed a lot (wouldn't want to be in this icefall in daytime). Reached ABC at 12:30 that night and spent rest of that night in ABC. Reached BC at 8-9 am on 29 March. Left BC 2 April with porters who came up to BC. Arrived KTM today on night bus from Pokhara. Sirdar Chowang Rinzing said he led 2 illegal ascents of Cho Oyu.
Accidents None
Achievement 1st New Zealand attempt
Agency Yangrima
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453440
Year 1991
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) left side of s face

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Justin LeSueur M 1964 New Zealand Climber Christchurch, New Zealand Accountant Details Other expeditions
John Madgwick M 1959 New Zealand Leader Christchurch, New Zealand Architect Details Other expeditions
Chowang Rinzi Sherpa M 1949 Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANNS91101 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 66:222 (1992) -
ANNS91101 MM - - - 140:8 (Jul 1991) -
ANNS91101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199222202/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-Dakshin-Southeast-Ridge-Attempt - - -