Annapurna South | 1989 E Pillar-N Summit (to 6000m)

A UK expedition to Annapurna South in 1989 via E Pillar-N Summit (to 6000m), led by Jonathan Garratt. Summit reached on 10th May 1989. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 798
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANNS89101
Peak ID ANNS
Year 1989
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Pillar-N Summit (to 6000m)
Route 2 NE Face-N Ridge (to 5800m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Jonathan Garratt
Sponsor Annapurna S Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1989-04-12
Summit Date 1989-05-10
Summit Time -
Summit Days 28
Total Days 40
Termination Date 1989-05-22
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6000m due to much snowfall and illness
High Point (m) 6000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/04,4200m),C1(21/04,5280m),C2(07/05,5980m),xxx(10/05,6000m)
Route Notes BC at Annapurna Sanctuary High point at East Pillar. 2m+ snow at BC where team arrived there; almost continuous bad weather till 8th May. 1st 2 days very heavy snowfall continued. Most days snow began at midday. 5th May put C2 in place and down to C1 with the plan to go back up next day. Had lot of illness amongst members. 3 times one member went to C1 to go up to C2 but never was able to make it and Griffin had to go below BC with chest infection. C2 actually first occupied on 7 May and in next days were getting supplies up in order to go for summit from there. 4 members went up to C1 14 May for summit bid, 2 ill and down and 2 actually got to C2 and then also down on 15th. Weather still not settled and 1 of them left BC 19th. On 11 May high point of 6000m had been reached on 1st route. 1st route's pillar had apparently been tried before and locals said a tent had been found which had been placed by 3 Japanese who were never seen again. Route in bad condition till end of climbing period and illness meant could seldom get more than two on mountain at same time. Griffin and Tinker tried alpine-style go at the Japanese route: started from BC on 19th and climbed at night, only time weather cleared and reached 5800m 21st night, sat there because of snowfall and 22nd to BC.
Accidents Nothing serious but lot of minor illnesses
Achievement -
Agency Rover Treks
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452751
Year 1989
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e pillar-n summit (to 6000m)

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Martin Doyle M 1958 UK Climber Aviemore, Inverness, Scotland Alpine guide & instructor Details Other expeditions
Jonathan P. J. Garratt M 1962 UK Leader London, England Army Captain (Grenadier Guards) Details Other expeditions
Lindsay Nigel Griffin M 1949 UK Climber Tregarth, Bangor, Gwynedd, Wales Mathematics teacher & alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Dave Harries M 1959 UK Climber Capel Curig, Gwynedd, Wales Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Jonathan (Jon) Tinker M 1959 UK Climber London, England Aid worker Details Other expeditions
Michael Timothy Woolridge M 1960 UK Climber Nant Peris, Gywnedd, Wales Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANNS89101 AAJ Garratt, Jonathan - - 64:251 (1990) -
ANNS89101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199025102/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-Dakshin-Attempt - - -