Annapurna South | 1986 SW Ridge

A Yugoslavia expedition to Annapurna South in 1986 via SW Ridge, led by Marija Frantar. Summit reached on 22nd May 1986. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 957
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANNS86101
Peak ID ANNS
Year 1986
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Yugoslavia
Leaders Marija Frantar
Sponsor Yugoslav S Annapurna Women's Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-04-16
Summit Date 1986-05-22
Summit Time -
Summit Days 36
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6050m due to bad weather and season finishing
High Point (m) 6050
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 3500
Total Members 9
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(16/04,4050m),ABC(18/04,4800m),C1(24/04,5700m),C2(09/05,5800m),Biv(22/05,6100m),xxx(22/05,6050m)
Route Notes BC at 4050m at Khyumbu Glacier ABC at 4800m at west of glacier towards face of SW Ridge C1 at 5600m on SW Ridge C2 at 5800m on ridge beyond rock and snow peaks Biv at 6100m 200m beyond Japanese peak 5970m High point at 6050m at bivouac. From ABC to C1 2 couloirs. Took route slightly different from Japanese route, joined ridge S of Japanese point of joining it. Above C1 was difficult rock peak with 4 rock steps; then down and traversed to middle of 3 peaks, then several snow peaks. Beyond C3 was 300m saddle but very sharp ridge here and very steep on both sides and above (=beyond) saddle, steep rock peak (5970m), followed by rock and snow peaks an fixed 3000m rope from point 5970m. Fixed total 3500m rope, even snow peaks very narrow and ridge all up and down. Planned total 4 high camps above ABC but sites very difficult (sides of ridge 45 degrees hard ice) and 2000m rope fixed rope needed. Komprej hit by snow avalanche in 1st couloir but not serious. Constant snowfall meant camps on ridge covered by wind driven snow and ropes often covered by snow. Had only 4 days without snowfall and often had trouble seeing route when were in low clouds. Then last week of climbing strong winds. With no Sherpas with them, exhaustion setting in, in such weather would have taken this team another month to reach summit. This mountain really too difficult for them.
Accidents 1 member hit by snow avalanche in 1st couloir but not serious
Achievement 1st Yugoslav attempt
Agency Mountain Travel
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451664
Year 1986
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Nives Borsic F 1962 Yugoslavia Climber Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Student, mathematics Details Other expeditions
Marija Frantar F 1956 Yugoslavia Leader Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Geography teacher Details Other expeditions
Irena Komprej F 1961 Yugoslavia Climber Prevalje, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Ana Mazar F 1953 Yugoslavia Climber Split, Croatia, Yugoslavia Clerk Details Other expeditions
Danijela Mlinar F 1962 Yugoslavia Climber Logatec, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Economist Details Other expeditions
Sanja Vranac F 1962 Yugoslavia Climber Koper, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Student Details Other expeditions
Mira Ursic F 1957 Yugoslavia Climber Bistrica, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Economist Details Other expeditions
Maja Dolenc F 1961 Yugoslavia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Medical student Details Other expeditions
Vlasta Kunaver F 1963 Yugoslavia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Medical student Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANNS86101 AAJ Kunaver, Vlasta - - 61:254 (1987) -
ANNS86101 AAJ Frantar, Marij - - 62:221 (1988) -
ANNS86101 MM - - - 111:11 (Sep 1986) -
ANNS86101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198822101/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-Dakshin-Womens-Attempt - - -
ANNS86101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198725304/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-IV - - -