Annapurna South | 1981 NE Face-N Ridge

A S Korea expedition to Annapurna South in 1981 via NE Face-N Ridge, led by Han Sang-Kook. Summit reached on 25th October 1981. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1791
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANNS81301
Peak ID ANNS
Year 1981
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Face-N Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality S Korea
Leaders Han Sang-Kook
Sponsor Annapurna S Peak Exp of Sung Kyun Kwan University Alpine Club
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 7th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Annapurna Sanctuary
Basecamp Date 1981-09-17
Summit Date 1981-10-25
Summit Time 1500
Summit Days 38
Total Days 45
Termination Date 1981-11-01
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7219
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 7
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(17/09,4090),C1(21/09,4720m),C2(??/10,5380m),C3(??/10,5850m),C4(22/10,6350),C5(24/10,6650m),Smt(10/25/10)
Route Notes Kim Hong-Ki - 1 Nov 81 BC 4100m 17 Sept C1 4700m 21 Sept C2 5380m Oct C3 5850m Oct C4 6350m 22 Oct C5 6650m 24 Oct Summit 25 Oct C1 broken by storm of heavy snow and much equipment and food lost but members safe. C1 covered by 3 meters snow. 10 days shovelling found supplies but big delay. Our plan all members to top in 2 parties of 3 members and 1 Sherpa and 2 members only. 1st party success on 25 Oct first that night heavy snow 25/26 to 27 Oct, so 2nd party bid abandoned. 1st party = Han, Kim Chang-Sun, Wan, Phinzo Sherpa Most difficult part C1 to C2: big seracs and these broke down every day and constant new route-making needs. No one hit by serac; one high porter fell 30m in crevasse but OK. Very lucky, many many dangerous situations, but no accident. No frostbite. Men on summit 3:00 pm. left C5 at 4:30 am, returned C5 7:50 pm in dark and snow which started falling 5:30 pm. From C5 went to Central Peak and thence to Main Peak; at Central Peak at 11:50 am. 2nd party planned to go to North Peak then to Central and Main Peaks. Route = North Ridge from NE Face. All camps were on face. Carried oxygen to C5 but never used. One member in C4 sick and used oxygen while sleeping; condition very good after that and he went to summit. Other 4 came to KTM after 1 week. Kim left BC 28 Oct. Summit members coming down C4 to C2. 29th they will be in BC and to leave BC today for KTM. Japanese in 1964 also climbed same face and C4 in same place, but Japanese route to right of big of serac area and Koreans to left. Since 1964 face much changed. Kim returns to Pokhara after 2-3 days to meet expedition there. Jong Tae Won - 31 Aug 81 4 in KTM on 1 Sept 4-5 Leave KTM 5 Sept to Pokhara by truck. Approach via Ghandrung, Hinko to Annapurna Sanctuary in 6-7 days. BC 4200m Route South-North Ridge from Col between Annapurna South and Fang. 5 camps above BC with C5 on North Ridge Temp C1 = 4400m C1 = 5200m C2 = 5600m ABC = 6200m C4 = 600m Arrived BC about 13 Sept, start climb 15 Sept Summit 15-20 Oct 7 Sherpas above BC Oxygen medical only Sleep in Shanbu Route: maybe change route to South Face
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449989
Year 1981
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) ne face-n ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hae-Kyung Chung M 1952 S Korea Deputy Leader Seoul, S Korea Saleman (sells leather) Details Other expeditions
Sang-Kook Han M 1948 S Korea Leader Seoul, S Korea Businessman Details Other expeditions
Chang-Sun Kim M 1960 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea University student Details Other expeditions
Hong-Ki Kim M 1955 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Jong-Tae Won M 1954 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Phinzo Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANNS81301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 56:235 (1982) -
ANNS81301 MM - - - 83:9 (Jan 1982) -
ANNS81301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198223504/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-South - - -