Annapurna South | 1979 W Face

A Poland expedition to Annapurna South in 1979 via W Face, led by Jerzy Pietkiewicz. Summit reached on 1st May 1979. 15 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2100
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANNS79101
Peak ID ANNS
Year 1979
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face
Route 2 N Face (to 6500m+)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Poland
Leaders Jerzy Pietkiewicz
Sponsor Addenda to Annapurna South
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 6th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Modi Khola->Chomro
Basecamp Date 1979-04-08
Summit Date 1979-05-01
Summit Time 1415
Summit Days 23
Total Days 35
Termination Date 1979-05-13
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7219
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 15
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 3
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(08/04,3700m),Biv1(28/04,6000m),Biv2(29/04,6400m),Biv3(30/04,6700m),Smt(01/05)
Route Notes Marian Piekutowski, Climbing Leader - 22 May 79 Route = West Face - 1st attempt via this route - went around to north side of SW Ridge (in KTM learned SW Ridge already done by Japanese). From BC to bottom of West Face ordinarily 2 days. BC at 3700m. Under West Face had 2 sites where one tent pitched at each place. West Face looked very difficult and seemed wise to come down easy NE Face and in acclimatization period went to look at NE Face for descent route. Piekutowski, Koniak and Wielicki in April while other 3 of 1st group went to see West Face route up. Koniak accident 15 April happened when at 30m below 6000m looking from southeast side of Annapurna South. Fell on 6m steep wall of loose strata. Went 8m and struck base of skull on rock and dead immediately. Not possible to take body down. Tied in plastic sheet to pitons under overhanging rock - this was all 2 men could do. These 2 men had no food now in accident and for 3 days had no food until they reached Chomro village. Leader, when learned of accident, decided to go to KTM to embassy with Ryznar who was brother-in-law of Koniak (married sisters). These 2 left BC 21 April. 23-24 April climbing leader organizer summit attack by 4: Czyzewski Smieszko Wielicki Piekutowski Plus Dr. Balucinski to help carry loads but on way, under West Face, in one day, Piekutowski felt pain (appendicitis requiring surgery eventually and meanwhile Dr gave injections and in 5 days no pain) at about 5200m, first place after BC. Dr and Piekutowski returned to BC. Piekutowski expected descent via NE Face so planned to send 3 men to carry light supplies around to area near Koniak, but before B left leader and Ryznar returned to BC from KTM. Leader decided 4 people would go under NE Face: Pietkiewicz (leader) Ryznar Pietrowicz Woznica To South Face BC area and reached there 1 May. That day they participated in rescue of Japanese on Hiunchuli (trekking peak). 2 May leader decided all except Woznica would go up to Koniak body and perform funeral. Woznica to leave 3 May to return to BC. 3 left NE Face to go to Koniak but at late in afternoon. Pietrowicz had pain in legs and had to go back and on 3 May to BC. 1 May heard by walkie-talkie that Smieszko and Wielicki reached top 2:15 pm. 3rd man, Czyzewski stayed 300m below top with altitude sickness. Necessary to descent West Face because of his illness. Those in BC ordered to go top help carry sick man except Piewtowski also sent men to these under NE Face to tell them to return to BC. (Ministry had refused permit to descend NE Face). Pietkiewicz and Ryznar had sent message they would return BC 13 May. Climbing leader thought this poor idea to split party since Ryznar not experienced. 5 May evening 12 persons assembled in (returned to) BC: all except dead Koniak, Pietkiewicz and Ryznar, but most not in good health and needed rest for several days. Piewtowski sent 3rd search party 10 May. Thinks now impossible they are alive. Last seen 4 May by Japanese Hiunchuli party. That afternoon in poor weather saw them going up [at 6500m], supposedly to Koniak body. It was Sherpas with Japanese that told this. Not seen again but tent with food not touched and runner's message still there with Japanese Sherpas. Max: 10 hours from Annapurna BC to Koniak body. Last seen by Poles 2 May. Woznica and Pietrowicz thinks 2 missing Poles had accident same place as Hiunchuli Japanese - couloir and avalanches and seracs area, or maybe they have bad acclimatization because of trip to KTM and because too weak to move from biv enroute to Koniak body. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism Ministry - 21 May 79 Leader and 1 member missing since 28 April: Jerzy Pietkiewicz Julian Ryznar Report from climbing leader Marian Piekutowski and LO says 28 April leader decided to go place where body of Koniak lay because they were relations to stay same time and if possible bury it. Ryznar, Jerzy Woznica, Jerzy Pietrowicz went with him. LO and climbing leader understood they would go part way and be in support of summiters - left from BC. (1 May 2 men to summit) 4 May Woznica and Pietrowicz returned to BC saying other 2 had camped Annapurna BC area and were going to site of body with small tent and food leaving big tent on Annapurna Glacier. Did not go in support of summiters. Summiters returned to BC 6 May with other, when 300m below top became ill of altitude Zibgniew Czyzewski and did not go to top. 3 returned with 3 others who had gone in actual support from BC on 5 May. 10 May climbing leader send 3 members search party to rescue leader and Ryznar because of desire to leave mountain soonest. Reached Hinko Cave where met Japanese Annapurna I Sherpas and porters who said no tent of Poles and no Poles seen. Poles then turned back thinking leader and Ryznar may have gone to village. Returned to BC 12 May. 13 May another search party went out. 13 May was day leader said would return to BC. Reached Japanese Annapurna ABC at 5600m. Japanese there had seen Poles except 1 Sherpa said tent on May 4 at BC area and 2 Poles climbing above BC but 6 or 7 May saw food in tent untouched search party left. Climbing leaders fear 2 dead - all survivors arrive KTM Sat evening. Sharma, Ministry of Tourism - 25 April 79 Josef Wladyslav Koniak died 15 April 12 noon. 3 members including Koniak had gone up to 6000m to acclimatize between Annapurna South and Hiunchuli - Koniak fell while they descending from 6000m. Marian Piekutowski, Krzysztof Wielicki and Koniak left BC 11 April for recce of North Face of Annapurna South which is on small shelf. Marian and Krzysztof went to Annapurna Glacier and through Machhapuchhare BC and reached BC 19 April about 11 am. Shrestha, Polish Embassy - 11 April 79 Of 9 Annapurna South members who came overland, only 2 came to KTM and rest stayed in Pokhara. 2 arrived KTM 9 April in evening and left for Pokhara this morning. Piekiewicz & Piekutowski - 31 March 79 Route = from west, exactly where not yet known. BC under West wall. 6 now in KTM. Other 9 came by road but unknown where they are and where they arrive. 6 buying all equipment in KTM and leave Monday. By bus to Pokhara, leave Pokhara Wednesday. 15-20 porters to BC via Chamro and then around west side of SW Ridge. BC at about 4000m under West Wall. No fixed camps above BC and no fixed ropes (unless perhaps just below, summit on South Face) - alpine-style climb. No Sherpas above BC and no oxygen for climbing or sleeping. Reach BC 10-15 April. 4-5 weeks to summit.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449079
Year 1979
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face

Members

15 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Zbigniew Czyzewski M - Poland Climber Jelenia Gora, Poland Student of physical education & sports coaching Details Other expeditions
Jozef Koniak M - Poland Climber Jelenia Gora, Poland Technician in agricultural-machinery factory Details Other expeditions
Jerzy Pietkiewicz M 1936 Poland Leader Jelenia Gora, Poland Teacher of physical education and sports coaching Details Other expeditions
Marian Piekutowski M 1950 Poland Climbing Leader Wroclaw, Poland Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Kazimierz Smieszko M 1955 Poland Climber Jelenia Gora, Poland Student of physical education & sports coaching Details Other expeditions
Krzysztof Wielicki M 1950 Poland Climber Tychy, Poland Electronics engineer Details Other expeditions
Konstanty Balucinski M 1946 Poland Exp Doctor Wroclaw, Poland Physician Details Other expeditions
Bogdan Dejnarowicz M 1951 Poland Climber Piechowice, Poland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Roman Hryciow M 1953 Poland Climber Jelenia Gora, Poland Photographer Details Other expeditions
Jerzy Pietrowicz M - Poland Climber Jelenia Gora, Poland Mountain rescuer Details Other expeditions
Julian Ryznar M 1947 Poland Climber Jawor, Poland Teacher of physical education Details Other expeditions
Wiktor Szczypka M 1947 Poland Climber Jelenia Gora, Poland Driver Details Other expeditions
Marian Tworek M 1942 Poland Climber Jelenia Gora, Poland Sight-seeing guide Details Other expeditions
Ryszard Wloszczowski M 1955 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Student Details Other expeditions
Jerzy Woznica M 1947 Poland Climber Jelenia Gora, Poland Driver Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANNS79101 AAJ Brniak, Marek - - 53:624-627 (1980) -
ANNS79101 HJ Kolankowski, Dr. Jerzy Annapurna South Peak From West - 37:163-166 (1979-80) -
ANNS79101 MM - - - 68:14 (Jul 1979) -
ANNS79101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198062403/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-South-or-Moditse - - -
ANNS79101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/37/30/expeditions-and-notes-37/ - - -