Annapurna South | 1978 SW Ridge-S Face

A Japan expedition to Annapurna South in 1978 via SW Ridge-S Face, led by Teruyuki Kouno. Summit reached on 16th October 1978. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2147
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANNS78301
Peak ID ANNS
Year 1978
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge-S Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Teruyuki Kouno
Sponsor Meiji University
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 4th,5th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Modi Khola->Kyumrum Khola (BC)
Basecamp Date 1978-09-20
Summit Date 1978-10-16
Summit Time 0845
Summit Days 26
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7219
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(20/09,4820m),C1(27/09,5650m),C2(03/10,5850m),C3(13/10,6400m),Smt(16-17/10)
Route Notes Ohmo - 3 Nov 78 All members arrive yesterday afternoon. Route = SW Ridge, same as 1974 Gamagori Alpine Club (SW Ridge to South Face). Hoped to send 3 parties to summit, but 1 member (doctor) not climbing up and sirdar broke right thumb and put out of action. No accidents (except sirdars thumb), illness or frostbite. Ridge very knife-edged, steep in last part; on face most difficult part because so steep; ice and snow mixed. Very strong winds on ridge and balance very difficult. Attack time no wind and very fine (no cloud) on face. Mitani and Nakanishi reached and summit 16 Oct; Kouno and Miyagawa on 17 Oct. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism Ministry - 8 Oct 78 Annapurna South C1 established 27 Sept at 5650m Shaliendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 19 Oct 78 C2 on 2-3 Oct at 5850m C3 on 13 Oct at 6380m - last camp Kouno - 5 Sept 78 Same route as 1974 spr Japanese SW Ridge; now young party Leave KTM 6 Sept Leave Pokhara 7 Sept Reach BC after 8 days with 111 porters via Kyumrum Khola. BC at 4800m. Route up east side of SW Ridge. C1 - 5600m Attact camp - 6300m Ridge very sharp and lot part above attack camp to is very steep snow. 1 sirdar Dawa Tsering and 3 HA Sherpas and 2 LA Sherpas to C1 only. Hope 5 members and 1 sirdar on summit in 3 parties. Doctor stays BC. Summit about 20 Oct; if bad weather only 1 summit party.
Accidents Sirdar broke right thumb
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448881
Year 1978
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge-s face

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yoshio Kato M 1950 Japan Exp Doctor Oyama, Toshigi, Japan Gynecologist at Jichiika University Hospital, Oyama City Details Other expeditions
Teruyuki Kouno M 1951 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Salesman for Asahi Helicopters Details Other expeditions
Toichiro Mitani M 1956 Japan Climber Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan Unemployed, graduated from University (in agriculture) Details Other expeditions
Yoshio Miyagawa M 1950 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Office worker (staff member) of office building maintenance Co. Details Other expeditions
Norio Nakanishi M 1958 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Student of economics, Meiji University Details Other expeditions
Masayuki Tsunakawa M 1958 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Student of electrical engineering, Meiji University Details Other expeditions
Dawa Tsering Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANNS78301 AAJ Kouno, Teruyuki - - 53:274-276 (1979) -
ANNS78301 JAC Kuono, Teruyuki Annapurna South, South-West Ridge, 1978 - 74:15 (1979) -
ANNS78301 JAC Kuono, Teruyuki Annapurna South, South-West Ridge, 1978 - 74:112-116 (1979) -
ANNS78301 IWA - - - 67:146 (1979) -
ANNS78301 IWA - - - 67:45-46 (1979) -
ANNS78301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197927405/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-South-Southwest-Ridge - - -