Annapurna South | 1970 S Face

A France expedition to Annapurna South in 1970 via S Face, led by Gerard Devouassoux. Summit reached on 27th October 1970. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2341
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANNS70301
Peak ID ANNS
Year 1970
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Gerard Devouassoux
Sponsor Expedition Chamoniarde a l'Himalaya
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Modi Khola->Kyumrum Glacier (BC)
Basecamp Date 1970-10-02
Summit Date 1970-10-27
Summit Time 0600
Summit Days 25
Total Days 28
Termination Date 1970-10-30
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7219
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(02/10,4200m),C1(5200m),C2(6100m),C3(6550m),C4(6850m),Biv(26/10,7100m),Smt(27/10)
Route Notes Devouassaux - 10 Nov 70 Climbed the face. Masino and Payot only reached final ridge at 7000m. C4 6850m was highest camp. Masino 15 days sick in base with bronchial pneumonia. Face more difficult the expected. Had to climb on face, not on ridge and face very dangerous because many stone and ice avalanches. Strong winds defeated Masino and Payot's summit attempt on 27th afternoon. 1st team reached summit. Summit 6:00 am on 27th having left C4, 5 am 26th Oct. Spent 26th night at 7000m without tent, sleeping bags, no food in dark; made hole in snow. BC 4200m C1 5200m C2 5600m C3 6000m C4 6850m [Note: camp and bivouac elevations differ from published HJ article] Top of face very difficult: very steep loose snow. Had expected to reach summit and return on 26th; returned C4 3 pm on 27th. Leave KTM after 4-5 days and tour in India 10 days on the way to France. French Expedition - 19 Sept Arrive KTM 13th Sept. Go Pokhara, Ghandrung, Kyumni, north from Kyumni to approach mountain from south. Expect 2-3 camps above base. 2000m face of rock, snow and ice to PKR 20th. Leave PKR 21st for 6 days to base. 6 Sherpas, sirdar Pemba Tenzing. No idea how long to sumit (prospectus says towards end Oct). Annapurna South (7195m) = Moditse, Modi Peak, Ganesh First climbed by Japanese from Kyoto University in 1964 from northern side; only previous attempt on mountain. French 1970 expedition attempting new route: direct route up South Face.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2445962
Year 1970
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Gerard Devouassoux M 1940 France Climbing Leader Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France - Details Other expeditions
Maurice Gicquel M 1936 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France - Details Other expeditions
Yvon Masino M 1940 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France - Details Other expeditions
Georges Payot M 1937 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Tenzing Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANNS70301 AAJ - - - 45:442 (1971) -
ANNS70301 HJ Gicquel, Maurice Annapurna South Peak (7195m) South Face - 31:181-185 (1971) -
ANNS70301 MM - - - 13:7 (Jan 1971) -
ANNS70301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197144202/Asia-Nepal-Moditse-or-Annapurna-South - - -
ANNS70301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/31/20/annapurna-south-peak-7195-m-south-face-1970/ - - -