Annapurna South | 1964 NE Face-N Ridge

A Japan expedition to Annapurna South in 1964 via NE Face-N Ridge, led by Haruo Higuchi. Summit reached on 15th October 1964. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2523
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANNS64301
Peak ID ANNS
Year 1964
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Face-N Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Haruo Higuchi
Sponsor Kyoto University Alpine Club
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Modi Khola->Annapurna Sanctuary (BC)
Basecamp Date 1964-09-15
Summit Date 1964-10-15
Summit Time 1230
Summit Days 30
Total Days 46
Termination Date 1964-10-31
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7219
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak) (THAR-643-01), Annapurna South (Central Smt 1st, 2nd ascents)
Campsites BC(15/09,4000m),C1(21/09,4600m),C2(27/09,5200m),C3(03/10,5600m),C4(06/10,6200m),C5(12/10,6600m),Smt(15/10)
Route Notes Uyeo and Shimada - 11 Aug 64 14 Sept established base camp. 1st summit group Yoshino, Kimura and Ageta tried on Oct 13th reached Central Summit (7150m). 2nd group Oct 15th Higuchi, Uyeo, Karma Sherpa and Mingma Tsering Sherpa mounted a second attempted (7219m). Uyeo and Mingma Tsering reached the Main Summit; Higuchi and Karma turned back short of the North Summit (7200m). Above C4 very steep icefall overhanging which Shimade and Ageta were 1st to ascend, but then Shimada got sick and not able to go to summit. Base to C3 many avalanches and above C4 icefall; highest C5 at 6400m; 600m fixed rope all together (icefall almost all of it). Yohino and Kimura want to go to Tukuche. Dr. Higuchi and Uyeo will leave 1st; Higuchi to visit residence instruction in India and maybe Pakistan and Thailand and Philippines; Uyeo to see India maybe West Pakistan and Philippines and Taiwan. Shimida wants do recce of Himlung. Japanese 1964 expedition from Kyoto University climbed Tent Peak from South Annapurna Glacier on Oct 23, 1964. Those who reached summit were Kiyoo Shimada and Maasaki Kimura. (from report from Japan to Gunter Hauser - in letter from Hauser to JOM Roberts to May 28, 1966). Annapurna South - Central Peak 1st ascent: 13 Oct - Hiromichi Yoshino - Masaaki Kimura - Yutaka Ageta 2nd ascent: 15 Oct - Shoichiro Uyeo - Mingma Tsering Sherpa Tent Peak route from South Annapurna Glacier 1st ascent: 23 Oct - Kiyoo Shimada - Masaki Kimura
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2443753
Year 1964
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne face-n ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Haruo Higuchi M 1929 Japan Leader Hirakata, Osaka, Japan Assistant professor, Disaster Prevention Research Institute, Kyoto Details Other expeditions
Shoichiro Uyeo M - Japan Deputy Leader Kyoto, Japan Master of pharmacy; PhD student of Pharmaceutical Dept Details Other expeditions
Hiromichi Yoshino M 1940 Japan Climber Yokohama, Japan Undergraduate student in Agriculture Dept, Kyoto University Details Other expeditions
Kiyoo Shimada M 1942 Japan Climber Takayama, Gifu, Japan Undergraduate student in Technological Dept, Kyoto University Details Other expeditions
Masaaki Kimura M - Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Undergraduate student in Jurisprudence Dept, Kyoto University Details Other expeditions
Yutaka Ageta M 1943 Japan Climber Takamatsu, Kagawa, Japan Undergraduate student in Geophysical Dept, Kyoto University Details Other expeditions
Mingma Tshering Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Phutar Sherpa M 1933 Nepal Sirdar Darjeeling, India Teacher in Darjeeling Mountaineering Institute Details Other expeditions
Karma Sherpa M 1936 Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

8 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANNS64301 AJ Uyeo, Shoichiro The Ascent of Annapurna South Peak (Ganesh) - 70:213-217 (Nov 1965) -
ANNS64301 AAJ Yoshizawa, Ichiro - - 39:465-466 (1965) -
ANNS64301 JAC Higuchi, Haruo Annapurna South Peak (Ganesh) - 60:8-9 (1965) -
ANNS64301 JAC Higuchi, Haruo Annapurna South Peak (Ganesh) - 60:64-86 (1965) -
ANNS64301 AJ - - - 71:153 (May 1966) -
ANNS64301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196546504/Asia-Nepal-Ganesh-Annapurna-Group - - -
ANNS64301 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1966_files/AJ%201966%20142-153%20Dangar%20Alpine%20Notes.pdf - - -
ANNS64301 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1965_files/AJ%201965%20213-217%20Uyeo%20Annapurna%20South.pdf - - -