Annapurna South | 1964 NE Face-N Ridge
A Japan expedition to Annapurna South in 1964 via NE Face-N Ridge, led by Haruo Higuchi. Summit reached on 15th October 1964. 9 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2523 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | ANNS64301 |
| Peak ID | ANNS |
| Year | 1964 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | NE Face-N Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Haruo Higuchi |
| Sponsor | Kyoto University Alpine Club |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 1st |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Pokhara->Modi Khola->Annapurna Sanctuary (BC) |
| Basecamp Date | 1964-09-15 |
| Summit Date | 1964-10-15 |
| Summit Time | 1230 |
| Summit Days | 30 |
| Total Days | 46 |
| Termination Date | 1964-10-31 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7219 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 6 |
| Summit Members | 1 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 4 |
| Summit Hired | 1 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Climbed Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak) (THAR-643-01), Annapurna South (Central Smt 1st, 2nd ascents) |
| Campsites | BC(15/09,4000m),C1(21/09,4600m),C2(27/09,5200m),C3(03/10,5600m),C4(06/10,6200m),C5(12/10,6600m),Smt(15/10) |
| Route Notes | Uyeo and Shimada - 11 Aug 64 14 Sept established base camp. 1st summit group Yoshino, Kimura and Ageta tried on Oct 13th reached Central Summit (7150m). 2nd group Oct 15th Higuchi, Uyeo, Karma Sherpa and Mingma Tsering Sherpa mounted a second attempted (7219m). Uyeo and Mingma Tsering reached the Main Summit; Higuchi and Karma turned back short of the North Summit (7200m). Above C4 very steep icefall overhanging which Shimade and Ageta were 1st to ascend, but then Shimada got sick and not able to go to summit. Base to C3 many avalanches and above C4 icefall; highest C5 at 6400m; 600m fixed rope all together (icefall almost all of it). Yohino and Kimura want to go to Tukuche. Dr. Higuchi and Uyeo will leave 1st; Higuchi to visit residence instruction in India and maybe Pakistan and Thailand and Philippines; Uyeo to see India maybe West Pakistan and Philippines and Taiwan. Shimida wants do recce of Himlung. Japanese 1964 expedition from Kyoto University climbed Tent Peak from South Annapurna Glacier on Oct 23, 1964. Those who reached summit were Kiyoo Shimada and Maasaki Kimura. (from report from Japan to Gunter Hauser - in letter from Hauser to JOM Roberts to May 28, 1966). Annapurna South - Central Peak 1st ascent: 13 Oct - Hiromichi Yoshino - Masaaki Kimura - Yutaka Ageta 2nd ascent: 15 Oct - Shoichiro Uyeo - Mingma Tsering Sherpa Tent Peak route from South Annapurna Glacier 1st ascent: 23 Oct - Kiyoo Shimada - Masaki Kimura |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2443753 |
| Year | 1964 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | ne face-n ridge |
Members
9 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Haruo Higuchi | M | 1929 | Japan | Leader | Hirakata, Osaka, Japan | Assistant professor, Disaster Prevention Research Institute, Kyoto | Details Other expeditions |
| Shoichiro Uyeo | M | - | Japan | Deputy Leader | Kyoto, Japan | Master of pharmacy; PhD student of Pharmaceutical Dept | Details Other expeditions |
| Hiromichi Yoshino | M | 1940 | Japan | Climber | Yokohama, Japan | Undergraduate student in Agriculture Dept, Kyoto University | Details Other expeditions |
| Kiyoo Shimada | M | 1942 | Japan | Climber | Takayama, Gifu, Japan | Undergraduate student in Technological Dept, Kyoto University | Details Other expeditions |
| Masaaki Kimura | M | - | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | Undergraduate student in Jurisprudence Dept, Kyoto University | Details Other expeditions |
| Yutaka Ageta | M | 1943 | Japan | Climber | Takamatsu, Kagawa, Japan | Undergraduate student in Geophysical Dept, Kyoto University | Details Other expeditions |
| Mingma Tshering Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Thami, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Pasang Phutar Sherpa | M | 1933 | Nepal | Sirdar | Darjeeling, India | Teacher in Darjeeling Mountaineering Institute | Details Other expeditions |
| Karma Sherpa | M | 1936 | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
8 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ANNS64301 | AJ | Uyeo, Shoichiro | The Ascent of Annapurna South Peak (Ganesh) | - | 70:213-217 (Nov 1965) | - |
| ANNS64301 | AAJ | Yoshizawa, Ichiro | - | - | 39:465-466 (1965) | - |
| ANNS64301 | JAC | Higuchi, Haruo | Annapurna South Peak (Ganesh) | - | 60:8-9 (1965) | - |
| ANNS64301 | JAC | Higuchi, Haruo | Annapurna South Peak (Ganesh) | - | 60:64-86 (1965) | - |
| ANNS64301 | AJ | - | - | - | 71:153 (May 1966) | - |
| ANNS64301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196546504/Asia-Nepal-Ganesh-Annapurna-Group | - | - | - |
| ANNS64301 | - | - | https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1966_files/AJ%201966%20142-153%20Dangar%20Alpine%20Notes.pdf | - | - | - |
| ANNS64301 | - | - | https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1965_files/AJ%201965%20213-217%20Uyeo%20Annapurna%20South.pdf | - | - | - |