Annapurna I Middle | 1984 S Face

A Spain expedition to Annapurna I Middle in 1984 via S Face, led by Nil Bohigas Martorell. Summit reached on 3rd October 1984. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1014
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANNM84301
Peak ID ANNM
Year 1984
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Nil Bohigas Martorell
Sponsor Annapurna South Face Expedition - Spanish
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 3rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Modi Khola->Annapurna Sanctuary
Basecamp Date 1984-08-15
Summit Date 1984-10-03
Summit Time 1230
Summit Days 49
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes Success only on middle summit, not main summit
High Point (m) 8051
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Annapurna I (ANN1-843-01)
Campsites BC(15/08,4200m),Biv1(27/09,5800m),Biv2(28/09,7100m),Biv(29/09,7250m),Biv4(30/09,7400m),Biv5(01/10,7600m),Biv6(02/10,7800m),Smt(03/10),Biv7(03/10,7800m)
Route Notes Started actual climb 27th Sept when left BC for ABC. Next climb was 18 hours ("all night and little morning") surmounting dangerous rock-avalanche area to biv at 7100m. To 7250m biv took all day artificial climbing, very difficult steep section of broken rock where 1 man fell twice and other one once. From 7600 to 7800m again rock which was very steep, but "very nice to climb," not rotten. Reached Middle Summit on 3 Oct and slept in 7800m biv. 4th Oct descended all way to 5600m in 15 hrs, helped by moonlight but with no fixed ropes in perhaps first such descent in Himalaya. Route used to go up was same as MacIntyre used and very dangerous to 6700m from rockfall in day time so climbed entirely at night. Descent route very near Polish 1981 spring route. Shrestha, Tourism - 9 Oct 84 2 members Lucas Erich, 22, alpine guide, Barcelona Nil Bohigas, 25, guide, Barcelona Summit via South Face without oxygen 3 Oct at 12:20 hours. Clear but windy weather; stayed 90 minutes, took photos from all angles; left 13:50 hours and returned to last biv at 15:30 hours. Put Nepalese, Spanish flags and khota on top. Leave BC 10 Oct. BC 4200m 1st biv 5800m - 27 Sept 2nd biv 7100m - 28 Sept 3rd biv 7250m - 29 Sept 4th 7400m - 30 Sept 5th 7600m - 1 Oct 6th 7800m
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451066
Year 1984
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Nil Bohigas Martorell M 1958 Spain Leader Barcelona, Spain Alpine instructor & lecturer Details Other expeditions
Enric Lucas Llop M 1961 Spain Climber Barcelona, Spain Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Anna Masip F 1960 Spain Member Barcelona, Spain Teacher Details Other expeditions
Montserrat (Montse) Soteras F 1961 Spain Member Barcelona, Spain Primary school teacher Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANNM84301 AAJ Lucas, Enric - - 59:285 (1985) -
ANNM84301 MM - - - 100:14 (Nov 1984) -
ANNM84301 MM Lucas, Enric Annapurna South Face - Alpine Style - 102:26-31 (Mar 1985) -
ANNM84301 - Nicolas, Pedro Himalayismo Espanol Ediciones Desnivel - -
ANNM84301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198528501/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-Middle-Summit-South-Face - - -