Annapurna I East | 1974 N Ridge

A Spain expedition to Annapurna I East in 1974 via N Ridge, led by Jose Manuel Anglada Nieto. Summit reached on 29th April 1974. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2319
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANNE74101
Peak ID ANNE
Year 1974
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Jose Manuel Anglada Nieto
Sponsor Spanish Annapurna Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Mristi Khola
Basecamp Date 1974-04-04
Summit Date 1974-04-29
Summit Time 2100
Summit Days 25
Total Days 30
Termination Date 1974-05-04
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8026
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 8
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(04/04,4500m),C1(12/04,5250m),C3(21/04,6500m),C4(27/04,7150m),C5(28/04,7490m),Smt(29/04)
Route Notes Pons - 17 March 79 Spanish Annapurna expedition had no intention of climbing main summit; plan was to go to East Peak only. Had to pretend on return to KTM that had tried to go to Main Peak so as to avoid trouble with HMG. Anglada - 19 May 74 All members arrive today; all well, no accidents. Sherpas performed very poorly. Had to be given bonus to carry above C2 and then carried only 8 kg loads. No attempt to reach main summit. No supplies in high camps without Sherpa support. Anglada - 4 March 74 8 Sherpas (including 1 sirdar and 2 mailrunners, 1 cook, 1 kitchen boy); total 9 members. Dr. and 1 member arrive next week and catch up with expedition. Main party leave by bus about 9th or before; equipment all in Pokhara already. Annapurna I north side, but really interested in East Summit, a virgin peak. Depends on conditions, especially avalanches. Letter from Blanchard, BC - 21 Apr 74 Establishment of BC on the 4th April. Altitude 4500m Establishment of C1 on the 12th April. Altitude 5200m Establishment of C2 on the 17th April. Altitude 5900m Establishment of C3 on the 21st April. Altitude 6500m Name of [climbing] members: J. M. Anglada Nieto, J. Pons, E. Civis, M. Martin, A. Villena and X. Perez Gil. Weather: very bad weather between 5 and 11th April: Afterwards sunny in the morning and normally clody in the afternoon. Route: C1 and C2 following French route or about. C3 more to the left treating to reach rock ridge, due to snow conditions. Letter - May 6, 1974 On the 22nd April Civis, Pons, Martin, Gil, Villena and Anglada climb to C3 at 6500m which we firmly establish by cutting a platform on the north ridge of Annapurna East. Martin and Villena go down to C2 for rest as they do not feel too good. 24 April: While Martin and Villena climb and remain at C3, Pons, Gil, Civis and Anglada climb up to 6900m to explore the way to C4 and return to C3. We have a lot of problems with our Sherpas who do not wish to climb to C3 and further. This delays our climb as we are without food and gas. We finally convince them to go up to C3 but they only do it three times in the whole expedition. 27th April: We make two groups. One support group by Gil, Martin and Villena who will act as Sherpas and will carry equipment and food to C4 and one attack group by Civis, Pons and Anglada. We climb up to 7150m where we establish C4 cutting a platform in the snow. The support group returns to C3 and the attack group remains here. 28th April: The attack group leaves C4 early in the morning, but being heavily ladden and weather being also irregular only reaches 7490m where we again establish another camp on a snow platform (C5). 29th April: We get up at 4 in the morning but only leave C5 at 7 in the morning by 24 degrees C below zero. Progress is slow. Weather is fair at the beginning but by midday we go through a small snow shower and wind which is also accompanied by an electrical storm. In the afternoon the weather is fair again and we continue. At night fall we reach a point 100m from the top. We keep going through a snow couloir about 45 degrees and with a temperature of 38 degrees C below and finally at 9 in the evening we reach the top of Annapurna East 8026 meters. On the other side of the peak we just climbed all the Sanctuary appeared to us. We had the moon shining that night so we started going down with her light. We tried in vain to find the fifth camp, so we had to stop at about 4 in the morning to wait for daylight. At 6 we found the tent and we later came down to C4 where we stayed for the night. 30 April: Extremely tired we managed to go down to C3 where our friends received us with hot drinks, etc. We slept there. 1st May: The attack and support groups go down to C1 where we meet the rest of the expedition (Benavente, Blanchard, Anglada Lasierra). 2nd May: All go down to BC. We have now send our Sirdar to Chhoya to look for porters and we expect to arrive in KTM on the 20th May if everything goes Ok. Although we had 4 oxygen equipments with 12 bottles I am glad to tell you that we have not used them. Even if we had wished to use them we could not have done so as our Sherpas did not bring them. Letter from 5 April 1974 We have at last reached our base camp at about 4500m at the foot of the Annapurna Glacier. It has been 19 days since we left Pokhara. First we had to wait a week in Pokhara till we had all the necessary Coolies, about 177, and 53 mules. We left Pokhara on the 16th of March and reached Chhoya a week later. On arrival in Chhoya the weather changed and it started to snow which made it difficult for the coolies to cross the Tholubugin pass at about 4300m. All the mules retured to Pokhara and so did most of our coolies. We had to chase for new ones and convince them to cross the pass with snow and cold. It has taken all these day to carry our 300 loads from Chhoya to the Mristi Khola. All the members, our liaison officer and a couple of Sherpas have reached the base camp but we still have half our equipment and food at one or two days from here. BC is very very well situated on a moraine just in front of the Annapurna Glacier. It is actually the same place chosen by the Japanese and Italian expeditions. Tomorrow if the weather permits we shall explore the glacier and try to establish C1 on the snow plateau at 5100m.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447246
Year 1974
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Josep Manuel Anglada Nieto M 1933 Spain Leader Barcelona, Spain Import business Details Other expeditions
Jordi Pons Sangines M 1933 Spain Climber Barcelona, Spain Decorator Details Other expeditions
Emilio Civis Abad M 1943 Spain Climber Barcelona, Spain Makes glass moulds Details Other expeditions
Antonio Villena Segura M 1937 Spain Climber Barcelona, Spain Clerk Details Other expeditions
Francisco Xavier Perez Gil M 1948 Spain Climber Barcelona, Spain Clerk Details Other expeditions
Manuel Martin Casado M 1945 Spain Climber Barcelona, Spain Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Maria Anglada Lasierra M 1917 Spain Exp Doctor Barcelona, Spain Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Eduardo Blanchard Castillo M 1915 Spain Climber Zaragoza, Spain Engineer Details Other expeditions
Enrique Benavente Mata M 1924 Spain Climber Barcelona, Spain Clerk Details Other expeditions

References

10 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANNE74101 AAJ Anglada, Jose Manuel - - 49:201-202 (1975) -
ANNE74101 HJ Anglada, Jose-Manuel Spanish Annapurna Expedition, 1974 - 33:202-205 (1973-74) -
ANNE74101 MM - - - 37:9 (Jul 1974) -
ANNE74101 MM Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman Annapurna - 58:44-47 (Nov 1977) -
ANNE74101 MM - - - 62:12 (Jul 1978) -
ANNE74101 - Pons, Jordi Annapurna Este Editorial Juventud, Barcelona - P245
ANNE74101 - Nicolas, Pedro Himalayismo Espanol Ediciones Desnivel - -
ANNE74101 - Verges, Elisabeth Anglada Ediciones Desnivel, Madrid - -
ANNE74101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197520103/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-East - - -
ANNE74101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/33/33/expeditions-and-notes-33/ - - -