Annapurna I East | 2006 S Face of Glacier Dome-E Ridge

A China expedition to Annapurna I East in 2006 via S Face of Glacier Dome-E Ridge, led by Lodue (Lhotse). Summit reached on 21st May 2006. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 6187
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANNE06102
Peak ID ANNE
Year 2006
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face of Glacier Dome-E Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality China
Leaders Lodue (Lhotse)
Sponsor Chinese Annapurna Expedition 2006
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 5th w/Pol
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2006-05-06
Summit Date 2006-05-21
Summit Time 1400
Summit Days 15
Total Days 32
Termination Date 2006-06-07
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8026
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 300
Total Members 2
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Annapurna I (ANN1-061-04)
Campsites BC(06/05,4130m),ABC(14/05,5400m),C1(16/05,6100m),C2(17/05,7000m),Smt(21/05)
Route Notes Details of climb: Lhotse, Pemba Tashi and Dawa Sherpa - 11 June 2006 During their first summit bid, both members and Dawa moved with the team led by Piotr Pustelnik (Polish), and they camped at the same places on the same dates as his team from base camp on 6 May to C2 on 17 May. On 19 May, Pemba Tashi and Dawa descended to base camp because their team's food supply was not sufficient for all three of them to continue the climb; Pustelnik had told them to bring food for only seven days. This gave Lhotse enough to continue his summit attempt. Lhotse continued with Pustelnik's team to their first bivouac at 7460m on 19 May and on 20 May to second bivouac at 7300m. On 21 May at 6:00 am he left with them for the summit and reached the East Summit at 7:00 [2:00?] pm without food, sleeping bag or Sherpa. He therefore was forced to turn back. He spent all night returning to the bivouac at 7300m, which he reached at 5:00 am on 22 May with Pustelnik and Morawaski. After sleeping at 7300m, Lhotse found he was snowblind from the difficult climb back from the East Summit. He rested/slept in the bivouac for two days, and then on 24 May started down; he met Dawa, who was coming up with food, between 7300m and C2 at 7000m and they descended together to C2. Pemba Tashi had gone up to C1 at 6100m on 24 May. On 25 May all three, Lhotse, Pemba Tashi and Dawa, returned to base camp to rest. In their second summit all three went up to C1 on 1 June, to C2 at 7000m on 2 June, and on 3 June to the second bivouac at 7300m, skipping the first bivouac at 7460m. On 4 June all three went for the summit. They left 7300m at 2:00 am on the 4th and were on the Main Summit at 11:20 am in windy and cloudy weather. They saw nothing at the top, but Lhotse is certain they were at the Main Summit because he had seen it when he was at the East Summit with Pustelnik. They returned to C2 at 7000m at 9:00 pm, and back safely to C1 at 6100m on 5 June. They had one oxygen bottle with their team, and Lhotse used oxygen from it from 7300m to the East Summit in his first summit bid. His oxygen delivery system was broken at the East Summit, and in his descent from there and during the rest of his climb, he had none. Bowie to BC 15th with flu; was very useful keeping things intact when 1 Tibetan Sherpa came down to get food for Lhotse. 1st biv on 19 May on ridge at 7460m by Hamar, Morawski and Pustelnik accompanied by Lhotse; 2nd biv on 20 May at 7300m on ridge. 21 May went for summit, but Lhotse, climbing wth them, got stuck at col between East and Central Summits. Ridge very difficult and found route at 4:00 pm, having left biv at 7:00 am, route by ramp down 100m on North Face of slopes of Central Summit to 7900m and looked for biv site but wasn't any; now it became clear that Lhotse had become partially snowblind, dehydrated, didn't have headlamp and so Pustelnik and Morawski returned to BC with him, having difficult time helping him and reached 2nd biv site at 5:00 am of 22nd. Meanwhile Homor went on to rejoin East Ridge and got to Central Summit at 6:30 pm and Main Summit at 8:45 pm and down to make a biv at or between Central and Main Summit at 10:00 pm. 22nd to 7300m biv where found other members and Lhotse. 23rd Homar down to C2 alone because Lhotse unable to go till 24th; all very weak without food 4-5 days but had to descend and reached C2 without difficulty and exhausted. * Dawa Sherpa - he says has no middle name, was born on 27/2/71 and comes from Tanku village, near Phaplu, Salleri VDC, Solu; he summited Cho Oyu with Spaniards in 2001 (but no Spanish team said he was on top with them) and on Everest with Iranians (Iranian leader gave his age as 37, but trekking agency, Thamserku said DOB 19/6/60, came from Mera village, Kanku-9, near Pangkoma, Jubing VDC, Solu). Ministry of Tourism did not list him as a summiter in 2005, but leader added his name to Ministry of Tourism list.
Accidents Lhotse snowblindness
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID ANN106104
Checksum 2458988
Year 2006
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s face of glacier dome-e ridge

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Lhotse (Luoze, Lodue) M 1962 China Leader Lhasa, Tibet, China Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Pemba Tashi (Bianba Zhaxi) M 1978 China Climber Dorje, Tingri Dzong, Tibet, China - Details Other expeditions
Dawa Sherpa M 1960 Nepal H-A Worker Mera, Kanku-9, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANNE06102 CLIM - - - 29:77-78 (Jul 2007) -
ANNE06102 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 81:375-376 (2007) -
ANNE06102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200737500/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-Himal-Annapurna-I-East-Ridge-Third-Ascent - - -