Annapurna IV | 1990 NW Ridge
A France expedition to Annapurna IV in 1990 via NW Ridge, led by Bernard Clement. Summit reached on 29th October 1990. 12 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 51 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | ANN490302 |
| Peak ID | ANN4 |
| Year | 1990 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | NW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | France |
| Leaders | Bernard Clement |
| Sponsor | Expe Himal A4 - French to Annapurna |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola |
| Basecamp Date | 1990-10-17 |
| Summit Date | 1990-10-29 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 12 |
| Total Days | 15 |
| Termination Date | 1990-11-01 |
| Termination Reason | 5 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 6800m due dangerous snow conditions, lack of time |
| High Point (m) | 6800 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 10 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 3 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(17/10,4800m),C1(20/10,5300m),C2(22/10,5800m),C3(26/10,6300m),xxx(29/10,6800m) |
| Route Notes | BC at glacier which feeds Sabje Khola C1 on snow at top rocks enroute to NW Ridge C2 below ridge C3 on NW Ridge High point at NW Ridge. 29th Oct tried to reach summit but not successful; needed C4 but no plan for such a camp. Summit bid by 5 members plus Kami Rinzi and Nga Temba Sherpa. Left C3 at 4:30 am, climbed ridge all day but snow conditions bad. Slowly reached 6800m at 3 pm, still long way from summit and getting late so all 7 turned back and were in C3 at 6 pm (dusk). 30th down to BC and left BC 1st Nov. Time alloted climb was only 12 days and needed at least 2 weeks for this mountain. |
| Accidents | Berthelemy very sick with cerebral edema (down from C2 to Manang and back to BC) |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Thamserku Trekking |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2453289 |
| Year | 1990 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | nw ridge |
Members
12 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chantal Berthelemy | F | 1961 | France | Climber | Perpignan, Pyrenees-Orientales, France | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Bernard Clement | M | 1948 | France | Leader | Perpignan, Pyrenees-Orientales, France | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Jacques Desplan | M | 1951 | France | Climber | Perpignan, Pyrenees-Orientales, France | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Mariette Desplan | F | 1953 | France | Climber | Perpignan, Pyrenees-Orientales, France | Health administrator | Details Other expeditions |
| Jean Gaillarde | M | 1951 | France | Climbing Guide | Perpignan, Pyrenees-Orientales, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Andre Miquel | M | 1943 | France | Climber | Perpignan, Pyrenees-Orientales, France | Tour guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Antoine Peral | M | 1953 | France | Climber | Perpignan, Pyrenees-Orientales, France | House builder | Details Other expeditions |
| Marie Edith Peral | F | 1953 | France | Climber | Perpignan, Pyrenees-Orientales, France | Bank employee | Details Other expeditions |
| Dominique Saut | M | 1957 | France | Climber | Laroque des Alberes, Pyrenees-Orientales, France | Psychiatrist | Details Other expeditions |
| Martine Trifonoff | F | 1948 | France | Climber | Perpignan, Pyrenees-Orientales, France | Nurse | Details Other expeditions |
| Kami Rinzi Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Nga Temba Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
2 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ANN490302 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 65:238-239 (1991) | - |
| ANN490302 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199123806/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-IV-Attempts | - | - | - |