Annapurna IV | 1986 NW Ridge

A Nepal expedition to Annapurna IV in 1986 via NW Ridge, led by Gupta Bahadur Rana. Summit reached on 2nd May 1986. 35 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 44
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN486101
Peak ID ANN4
Year 1986
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Nepal
Leaders Gupta Bahadur Rana
Sponsor Nepal Mountaineering Police
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 19th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Marshyandi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
Basecamp Date 1986-04-08
Summit Date 1986-05-02
Summit Time -
Summit Days 24
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7525
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 35
Summit Members 6
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(08/04,4500m),C1(17/04,5250m),C2(21/04,6000m),C3(29/04,6625m),Smt(02/05)
Route Notes 1st group of men including Sherpas arrived BC site 8 April, cleared area where there was deep snow and officially established camp there on day of pujas, 14 April. 2nd group of men and all women members arrived at BC 17 April. Women did very little climbing because plan was for 1st team of men to go to summit and then other men to take women up with them, but then General Election Day approached and bombs were being discovered, so expedition ended early so police officers could resume their duties. Moti Lal fell into crevasse but rescued uninjured. Kamal Bhandari got frostbitten on sides of his feet and hospitalized few days but now Ok. Arrue, Basque Anna II - 13 May 86 Police succeeded on Annapurna IV: Basques and Americans worked on route for several weeks before Police arrived to make a quick ascent. Lucy Smith - 17 May 86 Her Annapurna II expedition members saw Nepalese on Annapurna IV summit. Nepal women arrived at BC late and did very little climbing before expedition suddenly ordered back to KTM.
Accidents Moti Lal fell into crevasse (uninjured); Kamel Bhandari suffered frostbitten feet
Achievement -
Agency NPMAF
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451644
Year 1986
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw ridge

Members

35 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Babu Ram Poon M - Nepal Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Dhurba Bahadur Pradhan M - Nepal Manager - - Details Other expeditions
Basundhara Lama F - Nepal Leader - - Details Other expeditions
Gupta Bahadur Rana M 1945 Nepal Climbing Leader - Inspector, Nepal Police Details Other expeditions
Kamal Bhandari M - Nepal Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Nawang Yonden Sherpa M 1952 Nepal Climber Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Indra Bahadur Ghale M 1960 Nepal Climber Barpak, Gorkha, Gandaki Zone - Details Other expeditions
Nuru Sherpa M 1955 Nepal Climber Yarsa, Jiri - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Tshering/Tshiring Sherpa M 1963 Nepal Climber Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Phura Chhiri (Phurba Chhiri) Sherpa M 1969 Nepal Climber Sakpharma, Lokhim-9, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Jeet Bahadur Rai M - Nepal Video Photographer - Inspector, Nepal Police Details Other expeditions
Sher Bahadur Karki M 1952 Nepal Photographer Dhik Ngawali, Baitadi, Mahakali Royal Nepal Army Details Other expeditions
Navin Raja Basnet M - Nepal Exp Doctor - - Details Other expeditions
Binod Singh M - Nepal Radio Operator - - Details Other expeditions
Bhakti Nath Majhi M - Nepal Asst Video Man - - Details Other expeditions
Geeta Rana M - Nepal Storekeeper - - Details Other expeditions
Shanti Basnet F - Nepal Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Rashmi Shrestha F - Nepal Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Karna Bahadur Gurung M - Nepal Climber Gumda, Gorkha, Gandaki - Details Other expeditions
Gita Bahadur Joshi M 1958 Nepal Climber Taluwa, Okhaldhunga Police subinspector Details Other expeditions
Resam Bahadur Khadka M - Nepal Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Reeta Shrestha F - Nepal Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Manju K. C. F - Nepal Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Birendra Subba M - Nepal Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Ram Kaji Sivakoti M - Nepal Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Laxmi Dewan F - Nepal Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Gauri K. C. F - Nepal Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Surya Maya Shrestha F - Nepal Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Ram Pyari Maharjan F - Nepal Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Bindu Rana F - Nepal Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Nima Rita Sherpa M - Nepal Climber Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Moti Lal Gurung M 1950 Nepal Climber Sedua, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Gyan Bahadur Lama M - Nepal Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Devi Ram Parajuli M 1962 Nepal Cook at C2 Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Dambar Bahadur Gurung M - Nepal Climber Mukli, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN486101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 61:253 (1987) -
ANN486101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198725303/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-IV - - -