Annapurna IV | 1986 NW Ridge
A Nepal expedition to Annapurna IV in 1986 via NW Ridge, led by Gupta Bahadur Rana. Summit reached on 2nd May 1986. 35 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 44 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | ANN486101 |
| Peak ID | ANN4 |
| Year | 1986 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | NW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Nepal |
| Leaders | Gupta Bahadur Rana |
| Sponsor | Nepal Mountaineering Police |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 19th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Marshyandi->Hongde->Sabje Khola |
| Basecamp Date | 1986-04-08 |
| Summit Date | 1986-05-02 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 24 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7525 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 35 |
| Summit Members | 6 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 5 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(08/04,4500m),C1(17/04,5250m),C2(21/04,6000m),C3(29/04,6625m),Smt(02/05) |
| Route Notes | 1st group of men including Sherpas arrived BC site 8 April, cleared area where there was deep snow and officially established camp there on day of pujas, 14 April. 2nd group of men and all women members arrived at BC 17 April. Women did very little climbing because plan was for 1st team of men to go to summit and then other men to take women up with them, but then General Election Day approached and bombs were being discovered, so expedition ended early so police officers could resume their duties. Moti Lal fell into crevasse but rescued uninjured. Kamal Bhandari got frostbitten on sides of his feet and hospitalized few days but now Ok. Arrue, Basque Anna II - 13 May 86 Police succeeded on Annapurna IV: Basques and Americans worked on route for several weeks before Police arrived to make a quick ascent. Lucy Smith - 17 May 86 Her Annapurna II expedition members saw Nepalese on Annapurna IV summit. Nepal women arrived at BC late and did very little climbing before expedition suddenly ordered back to KTM. |
| Accidents | Moti Lal fell into crevasse (uninjured); Kamel Bhandari suffered frostbitten feet |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | NPMAF |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2451644 |
| Year | 1986 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | nw ridge |
Members
35 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Babu Ram Poon | M | - | Nepal | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Dhurba Bahadur Pradhan | M | - | Nepal | Manager | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Basundhara Lama | F | - | Nepal | Leader | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Gupta Bahadur Rana | M | 1945 | Nepal | Climbing Leader | - | Inspector, Nepal Police | Details Other expeditions |
| Kamal Bhandari | M | - | Nepal | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Nawang Yonden Sherpa | M | 1952 | Nepal | Climber | Beding, Dolakha | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Indra Bahadur Ghale | M | 1960 | Nepal | Climber | Barpak, Gorkha, Gandaki Zone | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Nuru Sherpa | M | 1955 | Nepal | Climber | Yarsa, Jiri | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Pasang Tshering/Tshiring Sherpa | M | 1963 | Nepal | Climber | Beding, Dolakha | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Phura Chhiri (Phurba Chhiri) Sherpa | M | 1969 | Nepal | Climber | Sakpharma, Lokhim-9, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Jeet Bahadur Rai | M | - | Nepal | Video Photographer | - | Inspector, Nepal Police | Details Other expeditions |
| Sher Bahadur Karki | M | 1952 | Nepal | Photographer | Dhik Ngawali, Baitadi, Mahakali | Royal Nepal Army | Details Other expeditions |
| Navin Raja Basnet | M | - | Nepal | Exp Doctor | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Binod Singh | M | - | Nepal | Radio Operator | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Bhakti Nath Majhi | M | - | Nepal | Asst Video Man | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Geeta Rana | M | - | Nepal | Storekeeper | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Shanti Basnet | F | - | Nepal | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Rashmi Shrestha | F | - | Nepal | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Karna Bahadur Gurung | M | - | Nepal | Climber | Gumda, Gorkha, Gandaki | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Gita Bahadur Joshi | M | 1958 | Nepal | Climber | Taluwa, Okhaldhunga | Police subinspector | Details Other expeditions |
| Resam Bahadur Khadka | M | - | Nepal | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Reeta Shrestha | F | - | Nepal | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Manju K. C. | F | - | Nepal | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Birendra Subba | M | - | Nepal | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ram Kaji Sivakoti | M | - | Nepal | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Laxmi Dewan | F | - | Nepal | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Gauri K. C. | F | - | Nepal | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Surya Maya Shrestha | F | - | Nepal | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ram Pyari Maharjan | F | - | Nepal | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Bindu Rana | F | - | Nepal | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Nima Rita Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Climber | Thami, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Moti Lal Gurung | M | 1950 | Nepal | Climber | Sedua, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Gyan Bahadur Lama | M | - | Nepal | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Devi Ram Parajuli | M | 1962 | Nepal | Cook at C2 | Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Dambar Bahadur Gurung | M | - | Nepal | Climber | Mukli, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
2 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ANN486101 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 61:253 (1987) | - |
| ANN486101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198725303/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-IV | - | - | - |