Annapurna IV | 1984 N Face (to 6800m)

A Italy expedition to Annapurna IV in 1984 via N Face (to 6800m), led by Renato Moro. Summit reached on 6th October 1984. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 42
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN484301
Peak ID ANN4
Year 1984
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face (to 6800m)
Route 2 NW Ridge (to 5300m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Renato Moro
Sponsor Annapurna IV Expedition 1984 (Italian)
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries France
Approach Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
Basecamp Date 1984-09-28
Summit Date 1984-10-06
Summit Time -
Summit Days 8
Total Days 13
Termination Date 1984-10-11
Termination Reason 8
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6800m due to lack of rope (N Face); at 5300m for lack of time (NW Ridge)
High Point (m) 6800
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 1000
Total Members 9
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(28/09,4300m),C1(01/10,5300m),C2(04/10,6400m),xxx(06/10,6800m); NW-Ridge-C1(08/10,4800m),C2(09/10,5300m),xxx(10/10)
Route Notes First attempted N Face, where it would have been necessary to fix rope at least as high as 7200m. Team had fixed 1000m by the time Bisson and Zortea got to 6800m on 6 Oct, and they did not have enough gear to continue fixing at this rate. Team then attempted the NW Ridge from French expedition's base camp, and all members got to 5300m on 9 Oct. That night there was heavy snowfall and now they had no more time left for their climb. (It had been agreed between this party and the French for the NW Ridge that the two would climb together on the ridge, but the liaison officer with the Italian-French group would not permit this party to go to the ridge. A ridge attempt was made only after the LO had left the expedition). Necessary to fix rope to 7200m or so on steep face and had not enough equipment. Had already put in 1000m of rope. Made new camp for NW Ridge route at French BC on 8th Oct. On 9th Oct reached C1 on French route at 5300m, but that night heavy snowfall and no time left for more climbing. Had been forced by LO to stop at Pisang village on approach march and not go on French expedition's NW Ridge route as had been agreed in KTM amongst leaders and ministry. Then LO left Italians and they could go to French route but turned out to be too late.
Accidents None except one member started getting edema and had to go to Pisang village for few days
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451069
Year 1984
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face (to 6800m)

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Renato Moro M 1946 Italy Leader Milano, Italy Tour guide Details Other expeditions
Pierre-Marie Bisson M 1951 France Climber Le Vesinet, Yvelines, France Stockbroker Details Other expeditions
Gianpaolo Zortea M 1949 Italy Climber San Martino di Castrozza, Trento, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Sergio Ardissone M 1952 Italy Climber Asti, Italy Bank manager Details Other expeditions
Franco Copetti M 1956 Italy Climber Udine, Italy Shopkeeper Details Other expeditions
Nadia Costagli F 1955 Italy Climber Asti, Italy Housewife Details Other expeditions
Sabine De Ghaise De Bourmont F 1950 France Climber/Exp Doctor Angers, Maine-et-Loire, France Physician Details Other expeditions
Cornelia Farini Nigrisoli F 1933 Italy Climber Florence, Italy Housewife Details Other expeditions
Jocelyne Fermier Ducrot F 1947 France Climber Paris, France Teacher Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN484301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 59:282 (1985) -
ANN484301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198528203/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-IV-Attempt - - -