Annapurna IV | 1979 NW Ridge

A Spain expedition to Annapurna IV in 1979 via NW Ridge, led by Martin Zabaleta. Summit reached on 25th October 1979. 18 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 34
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN479301
Peak ID ANN4
Year 1979
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Martin Zabaleta
Sponsor Basque Expedition to Annapurna IV
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries USA
Approach Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
Basecamp Date 1979-10-11
Summit Date 1979-10-25
Summit Time -
Summit Days 14
Total Days 15
Termination Date 1979-10-26
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6900m due to illness (AMS) of Sherpa
High Point (m) 6900
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 16
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(11/10,3950m),C1(14/10,4700m),C2(16/10,5400m),C3(22/10,6010m),C4(25/10,6900m),xxx(26/10)
Route Notes Attempted from ridge connecting A-III & A-IV (steep with many seracs and crevasses) 1 Sherpa seriously ill with vomiting and strong headache. Buhler - 8 Nov 79 Were on a rib that Koreans did, not same as British 1960 apparently, really Northwest Ridge. Buhler and a Sherpa got altitude altitude sickness on 25 Oct at high point and no one ready to go on up and only 3 days left to make flight connection. Others were in C3 and would have taken remaining 3 days to go up; also lot of high winds. Buhler within 8 hours hard climb of summit. No accidents except avalanche that hit Prunes. Climbed no other peaks. Vidal - 19 Oct 79 Going from C1 to make route to C2. Pemba Lama and Prunes in first party and decided to take short cut and Pemba want to search for Korean pitons. Pemba hit by small avalanche and fell with its force and took Prunes with him. Prunes managed to stop his fall but Pemba could not stop himself and so both again falling; again Prunes stopped himself and avalanche stopped with less steepness. 250m total fall - 1:30 pm 15 Oct. Prunes injured wrist and bruises. Pemba Lama maybe injured kidney; in Shanta Bhawan Hospital. Vidal was at C1; he not hit but as oldest, most dispensable to accompany injured men. Expedition continues and via same route; summit with good weather on 26 Oct. Came to KTM yesterday from Manang air strip. C1 - 4800m Hit by avalanche - 5300m C2 - about 5500m Carlos Buhler - 1 Oct 79 Route = North Rib at 6400-7000m connecting lower and upper plateaus; rib seems most difficult part, then ridge from upper plateau to top; same route as 1960 via Dome. Arrive 28 Sept, leave 2-3 Oct to Dumre; 8 days to BC with 100-120 porters. BC at 4000m on Sabje Khola on which mountain school is located. South of north and west-southwest of Pisang. 4 camps above BC with C4 at about 7000m 20-21 days climbing, then next move off in order to leave Nepal on 9 Nov for cheap flight. 4 Sherpas and 1 sirdar Temba No oxygen All members Spanish, except 1 American Carlos Buhler. Dr. Josep Aced and Joaquim Prunes = members of springs 1978 unauthorized attempt on Kangchenjunga Central summit.
Accidents Prunes and Pemba Lama hit by avalanche, Prunes injured wrist and bruises, Pemba Lama injured
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449211
Year 1979
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw ridge

Members

18 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Josep Aced Masjoan M 1948 Spain Climber Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain Physician Details Other expeditions
Jaume Serrat Comerma M 1946 Spain Climber Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain Fruit farmer Details Other expeditions
Joaquim (Kim) Prunes Santamaria M 1953 Spain Climber Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain Chemistry student Details Other expeditions
Lucio Aramburu Echeverria M 1936 Spain Climber Gabiria, Guipuzcoa, Spain Insurance agent Details Other expeditions
Felipe Uriarte Camara M 1944 Spain Climber San Sebastian, Guipuzcoa, Spain - Details Other expeditions
Martin Zabaleta Larburu M 1949 Spain Leader Hernani, Guipuzcoa, Spain Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Carlos Paltenghe Rockhold Buhler M 1954 USA Climber Bellingham, Washington Ecologist Details Other expeditions
Jose Antonio (Joseba) Eguibar Arieta-Araunabena M 1946 Spain Climber Bergara, Guipuzcoa, Spain Electrician Details Other expeditions
Jose Luis Gabirondo Garmendia M 1950 Spain Climber Tolosa, Guipuzcoa, Spain Works in the administration of a construction firm Details Other expeditions
Jose Manuel Gorospe Zabaleta M 1953 Spain Climber Zegama, Guipuzcoa, Spain Electrician Details Other expeditions
Angel Lizarraga Iraizoz M 1947 Spain Climber Pamplona, Navarra, Spain Mechanical designer (for crane production) Details Other expeditions
Jesus Maria Mendizabal Galarraga M 1951 Spain Climber Azpeitia, Guipuzcoa, Spain Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Joseba Rebollar Machain M 1944 Spain Climber Beasain, Guipuzcoa, Spain Representative of a paint firm Details Other expeditions
Ricardo Vidal Rovija M 1919 Spain Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Manuel Yurrita Galdos M 1951 Spain Climber Ormaitegui, Guipuzcoa, Spain Forest technician in paper industry Details Other expeditions
Rafael Ariz Martinez M 1953 Spain Climber Pamplona, Navarra, Spain House builder Details Other expeditions
Pemba Lama Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Temba Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN479301 AAJ Aced, Josep - - 55:263-264 (1981) -
ANN479301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198126302/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-IV-Attempt-1976 - - -