Annapurna IV | 1978 NW Ridge

A S Korea expedition to Annapurna IV in 1978 via NW Ridge, led by Chun Byung-Koo. Summit reached on 23rd April 1978. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 33
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN478101
Peak ID ANN4
Year 1978
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality S Korea
Leaders Chun Byung-Koo
Sponsor Korean Alpine Club
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 11th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola (BC)
Basecamp Date 1978-04-07
Summit Date 1978-04-23
Summit Time 1550
Summit Days 16
Total Days 21
Termination Date 1978-04-28
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7525
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/04,4000m),C1(09/04,5000m),C2(14/04,5640m),C3(17/04,6200m),C4(20/04,6600m),Biv(22/04,6900m),Smt(23/04)
Route Notes Summited during storm, bivouacked two nights. Yoo Dong-Ok, Shanta Bhavan Hospital - 6 May 78 Left C4 6600m 22 April to biv site 6900m and next morning 23 April to summit with 2 Sherpas. 23rd morning weather good but afternoon very bad: strong wind, snow and very cold. 23rd left biv 6 am and reached top 4 pm in very bad weather after 2 pm; returned to biv site 11 pm: couldn't see site 11 pm: couldn't see site at first in storm and made temperature biv in crevasse that night very cold and strong wind. Toes and foot frostbitten on 23rd and night 23/24. Sherpas not frostbitten. Reached BC 27 April because very bad weather with heavy snowfall; could leave C4 only on 26th; 26th night C1, 1st summit assault team was Ok and Sherpas; then with frostbite, bad weather with avalanche danger (Ok and Sherpas hit by avalanche near C3 on 26 April) Leader called halt to climbing; had plans for 2 more summit attacks. Many crevasses on route and deep snow - NE Ridge. All members came to KTM 7 or 8 May and all return to Korea 14-15 May. SR Sharma, Tourism - 27 April 78 Annapurna IV conquered by Yoo Dang-Ok, 32 Sirdar Passang Norbu Sherpa, 25 Sherpa Pemba Lama, 30 10 Baisak = 23 April, afternoon without oxygen. When climbing to summit there was storm and heavy rain. Byun You-Keun - 16 March 78 Same NW Ridge route as 1955 and 1974 Germans, Yugoslavia and Japan. To Sisuwa by bus 20 March and then to BC 10 days - via Pisang. BC 4000m; 4 camps above BC and biv site at 7000m; C4, last fixed camp at 6450m. 1 sirdar and 4 Sherpas above BC, up to Advance BC (C3) at 5900m as well all members No oxygen for climbing or sleeping. 25-28 April summit, 28th April big Korean national day. 6 Koreans on expeditions (probably no doctor).
Accidents Summiters fell 500 feet on descent
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448660
Year 1978
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Byung-Koo Chun (Jun) M 1944 S Korea Leader Seoul, S Korea Owns business: electric engineer Details Other expeditions
Tak-Young Hahm M 1938 S Korea Deputy Leader Seoul, S Korea Govt office granting permission for telex & wireless installation Details Other expeditions
Dong-Ok Yoo M 1947 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Department store sports goods salesman Details Other expeditions
Myu-Keun Byun M 1949 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Exports industrial electrical fixtures Details Other expeditions
Myung-Ho Lee M 1949 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Driver of construction equipment (cranes, fork lifts) Details Other expeditions
Doo-Sung Chun M 1953 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Student in Kwang Woon College (Electric College) Details Other expeditions
Ki-Joo Rhee M 1938 S Korea Exp Doctor Seoul, S Korea Physician (surgeon) Details Other expeditions
Pasang Norbu/Nurbu Sherpa M 1954 Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Lama Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN478101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 53:274 (1979) -
ANN478101 AAJ Hahm Tak-Young - - 53:623-624 (1980) -
ANN478101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198062302/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-IV-Northwest-Route-1975 - - -
ANN478101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197927404/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-IV - - -