Annapurna IV | 1978 NW Ridge
A S Korea expedition to Annapurna IV in 1978 via NW Ridge, led by Chun Byung-Koo. Summit reached on 23rd April 1978. 9 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 33 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | ANN478101 |
| Peak ID | ANN4 |
| Year | 1978 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | NW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | S Korea |
| Leaders | Chun Byung-Koo |
| Sponsor | Korean Alpine Club |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 11th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola (BC) |
| Basecamp Date | 1978-04-07 |
| Summit Date | 1978-04-23 |
| Summit Time | 1550 |
| Summit Days | 16 |
| Total Days | 21 |
| Termination Date | 1978-04-28 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7525 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 7 |
| Summit Members | 1 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 5 |
| Summit Hired | 2 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(07/04,4000m),C1(09/04,5000m),C2(14/04,5640m),C3(17/04,6200m),C4(20/04,6600m),Biv(22/04,6900m),Smt(23/04) |
| Route Notes | Summited during storm, bivouacked two nights. Yoo Dong-Ok, Shanta Bhavan Hospital - 6 May 78 Left C4 6600m 22 April to biv site 6900m and next morning 23 April to summit with 2 Sherpas. 23rd morning weather good but afternoon very bad: strong wind, snow and very cold. 23rd left biv 6 am and reached top 4 pm in very bad weather after 2 pm; returned to biv site 11 pm: couldn't see site 11 pm: couldn't see site at first in storm and made temperature biv in crevasse that night very cold and strong wind. Toes and foot frostbitten on 23rd and night 23/24. Sherpas not frostbitten. Reached BC 27 April because very bad weather with heavy snowfall; could leave C4 only on 26th; 26th night C1, 1st summit assault team was Ok and Sherpas; then with frostbite, bad weather with avalanche danger (Ok and Sherpas hit by avalanche near C3 on 26 April) Leader called halt to climbing; had plans for 2 more summit attacks. Many crevasses on route and deep snow - NE Ridge. All members came to KTM 7 or 8 May and all return to Korea 14-15 May. SR Sharma, Tourism - 27 April 78 Annapurna IV conquered by Yoo Dang-Ok, 32 Sirdar Passang Norbu Sherpa, 25 Sherpa Pemba Lama, 30 10 Baisak = 23 April, afternoon without oxygen. When climbing to summit there was storm and heavy rain. Byun You-Keun - 16 March 78 Same NW Ridge route as 1955 and 1974 Germans, Yugoslavia and Japan. To Sisuwa by bus 20 March and then to BC 10 days - via Pisang. BC 4000m; 4 camps above BC and biv site at 7000m; C4, last fixed camp at 6450m. 1 sirdar and 4 Sherpas above BC, up to Advance BC (C3) at 5900m as well all members No oxygen for climbing or sleeping. 25-28 April summit, 28th April big Korean national day. 6 Koreans on expeditions (probably no doctor). |
| Accidents | Summiters fell 500 feet on descent |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2448660 |
| Year | 1978 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | nw ridge |
Members
9 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Byung-Koo Chun (Jun) | M | 1944 | S Korea | Leader | Seoul, S Korea | Owns business: electric engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Tak-Young Hahm | M | 1938 | S Korea | Deputy Leader | Seoul, S Korea | Govt office granting permission for telex & wireless installation | Details Other expeditions |
| Dong-Ok Yoo | M | 1947 | S Korea | Climber | Seoul, S Korea | Department store sports goods salesman | Details Other expeditions |
| Myu-Keun Byun | M | 1949 | S Korea | Climber | Seoul, S Korea | Exports industrial electrical fixtures | Details Other expeditions |
| Myung-Ho Lee | M | 1949 | S Korea | Climber | Seoul, S Korea | Driver of construction equipment (cranes, fork lifts) | Details Other expeditions |
| Doo-Sung Chun | M | 1953 | S Korea | Climber | Seoul, S Korea | Student in Kwang Woon College (Electric College) | Details Other expeditions |
| Ki-Joo Rhee | M | 1938 | S Korea | Exp Doctor | Seoul, S Korea | Physician (surgeon) | Details Other expeditions |
| Pasang Norbu/Nurbu Sherpa | M | 1954 | Nepal | Sirdar | Namche Bazar, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Pemba Lama Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
4 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ANN478101 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. | - | - | 53:274 (1979) | - |
| ANN478101 | AAJ | Hahm Tak-Young | - | - | 53:623-624 (1980) | - |
| ANN478101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198062302/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-IV-Northwest-Route-1975 | - | - | - |
| ANN478101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197927404/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-IV | - | - | - |