Annapurna IV | 2022 NW Ridge

A Russia expedition to Annapurna IV in 2022 via NW Ridge, led by Ivan Aristov. Summit reached on 13th November 2022. 15 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10913
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN422302
Peak ID ANN4
Year 2022
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Russia
Leaders Ivan Aristov
Sponsor Russian Kuban Annapurna IV Expedition 2022
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach KTM->Besisahar->Hongde by car, trek to BC
Basecamp Date 2022-10-18
Summit Date 2022-11-13
Summit Time 1400
Summit Days 26
Total Days 28
Termination Date 2022-11-15
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7525
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 400
Total Members 15
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(18/10,3800m),C1(21/10,4800m),C2(24/10,5450m),C3(25/10,6080m),C4(08/11,6500m),C5(11/11,7030m),Smt(13/11)
Route Notes Report from Aleksandr Eliseev: Approach: KTM-Besisahar-drive to Hongde-trek to BC BC 18/10 3800m C1 21/10 4800m C2 24/10 5450m C3 25/10 6080m C4 08/11 6500m C5 11/11 7030m Smt 13/11 by Eliseev and Dergachev at 2 pm. The following six members reached C5 at 7030m: Oleg Afanasev, Pavel Chernov, Denis Aleksenko, Sergei Melnikov, Andrei Dergachev, Aleksandr Eliseev The other members reached C4 at 6500m: Ivan Aristov, Andrei Glushkov, Denis Kuzmin, Andrei Filimonov, Vitaliy Davydych, Igor Romanov, Gennadiy Dolgov, Yuri Panov The first summit attempt was on 12 Nov. Left C5 at 9 am. There were all 6 of us. We made it to 7150m, then turned back because the winds were too strong about 60/70kms. We spent one hour climbing up, saw it was impossible, then descended back to our 2 small tents at C5. The others didn’t want to try again because it was just too cold and windy. On 12 Nov they all went down to BC whilst us two remaining continued the climb to the summit on 13 Nov. The second attempt was on 13 Nov. Team left at 8 am. The weather was very clear, but the wind was different – sometimes silent, sometimes strong. It made us very nervous. We hesitated many times. We spent about 1 hour on the summit. The conditions were the best. Clear. Little bit of wind. We descended to C4 at 6500m where the snow cave was set up. Arrived at 7 pm. Next morning left at 9 am from snow cave, made way to BC on 14 Nov. Arrived there BC 6 pm. Our first idea: we wanted to climb for C4 to the top in one shot. But it was not easy, it was too long. On 9 Nov we tried to go to the top from C4. We ascended to about 7000mt at about 11 am. It was too late to continue. If we kept climbing we would be descending in the dark and the weather was going to be too cold, it was too risky. We returned to C4 at about 1.30 pm that day. The next day 10 Nov, we rested at C4. Snow cave was warmer and quiet and no wind, better than when you are in a tent. We can stand up, walk a little and cook. We can also watch cinema on our phones! The snow caves were difficult to make because the snow was hard, it took us 5 hours. We made two entrances, and inside there were two rooms with a corridor going through. Taam left BC on 15 Nov, walked one day to Hongde. Stayed there 1 night. Next day 16 Nov drove to Besisahar. We used 400n of fixed rope; little bit below C2, little bit below C5, little bit below C3. Ropes are still there. Too tired to clear the ropes. We were also too scared, too tense and our back packs too heavy. Most technical part was a little bit below C5, there was a snow wall about 15m, it was vertical, but snow, no ice. I used snow bars like ice tools in both hands and dug steps with my feet. Ice tools were of no use and wouldn’t have done the job. The snow was not hard enough to make anchors.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Chatours Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2466014
Year 2022
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw ridge

Members

15 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ivan Aristov M 1958 Russia Leader Krasnodar, Russia Businessman Details Other expeditions
Oleg Gennadievich Afanasiev M 1972 Russia Climber Krasnodar, Russia Mountaineering club president & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Denis Aleksenko M 1997 Russia Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Pavel Chernov M 1986 Russia Climber Krasnodar, Russia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Vitalii Davydych M 1980 Russia Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Andrei Dergachev M 1971 Russia Climber Krasnodar, Russia Geologist Details Other expeditions
Gennady Viktorovich Dolgov M 1962 Russia Climber Maykop, North Caucasus, Russia Alpine coach Details Other expeditions
Alexander Eliseev M 1972 Russia Climber Krasnodar, Russia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Andrei Filimonov M 1964 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Sportsman & alpinist Details Other expeditions
Andrei Glushkov M 1969 Russia Climber Krasnodar, Russia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Denis Kuzmin M 1981 Russia Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Sergei Melnikov M 1969 Russia Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Oxana Morneva F 1975 Russia BC Manager? Sochi, Russia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Yuri Panov M 1962 Russia Climber Krasnodar, Russia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Igor Romanov M 1964 Russia Climber Krasnodar, Russia Rescuer & cameraman Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN422302 - - https://explorersweb.com/annapurna-iv-russians-ready-for-summit-push/ - - -
ANN422302 - - https://explorersweb.com/russians-summit-annapurna-iv/ - - -
ANN422302 - - https://mteveresttoday.com/annapurna-iv-summit/ - - -
ANN422302 - - https://explorersweb.com/nepal-attempts-on-annapurna-iv-chumbu-and-pungi/ - - -