Annapurna IV | 2019 NW Ridge

A UK expedition to Annapurna IV in 2019 via NW Ridge, led by Stuart Peacock. Summit reached on 27th October 2019. 17 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10382
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN419301
Peak ID ANN4
Year 2019
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Stuart Peacock
Sponsor Adventure Peaks Annapurna IV Expedition 2019
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Germany, Russia, Spain, USA
Approach Manang Valley
Basecamp Date 2019-10-12
Summit Date 2019-10-27
Summit Time -
Summit Days 15
Total Days 18
Termination Date 2019-10-30
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6500m due to knee-deep snow and dangerous avalanche conditions
High Point (m) 6500
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 6000
Total Members 11
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/10,4850m),C1(15/10,5440m),C2(17/10,5910m),C3(26/10,6450m),xxx(27/10,6500m)
Route Notes Notes from Adventure Peaks website: 29th October The team are doing well, Steve and Norbu are now down with the rest of the team and they plan to clear the mountain and descend to Hongde tomorrow. 28th October Stu called this afternoon to say that the team are back down safely at base camp after a challenging summit attempt. Steve and Norbu Sherpa have stopped at camp 1 on the way down to rest and will follow on down tomorrow. The team made it past the step to camp 3 and on the way to camp 4 the neve soon turned to knee deep snow which was tough going but unfortunately the avalanche risk was too high to continue. The weather conditions have been on side and otherwise conditions have been good so it’s not for lack of trying but most importantly the team are down safe. 24th October The team are at base camp today, having one more rest day before they start moving up the mountain tomorrow to be in place for their summit bid early next week. The rope fixing team have made good progress, fixing almost 6km of rope so far. The plan is for them to get most of the way to camp 4 tomorrow. 21st October Stu called in this morning from base camp with the main request being the all important world cup rugby results and premier league results from the weekend! They plan to head up to camp 2 tomorrow and the Sherpas will fix the lines up to camps 3 and 4, then the rest of the team will head up on 25th. 20th October All the team are now down in the comforts of base camp. On the 15th we moved up to camp 1 after sorting out the food we needed for the next few days. From crampon point we were straight onto the fixed lines working our way up progressively steeper rocky terrain until we reached a steep slab corner. There is quite a bit of loose rock around so the team needed to be really mindful of this during ascent and descent. This was the first crux of the route which had to be negotiated with some awkward thrutching on the jumar and some huffing and puffing. Once above this the route traverses around to a snow filled gulley which winds its way up to rock step number 2, which has now been named Andrei’s step after Andrei assisted several of the team over this awkward rock step. The key is footwork on this tricky ground. Above Andrei’s step was just a couple of snow slopes bringing us into the snow covered rocky area of camp 1 at 5440m. On the 16th most of the team made a carry of personal gear up to camp 2. The Sherpas have done the hard graft of team kit carrying. Isabelle opted to stay at camp 1 and rest. The route to camp 2 is much more straight forward on snowy slopes with just one short steep section of 65 degrees before reaching the camp. This took around 3 hours and once we had spent a bit of time there and dropped kit off we quickly dropped back down to camp 1. The 17th saw the team move up to camp 2 at 5910m. Evaldas decided to stay at camp 1, having sustained a pull or something to his calf on the route to camp 1. Upon arriving at camp 2 the weather started to change and eventually the winds picked up and snow started to fall. It got quite windy through the night and we did sustain some damage to a couple of tents with one broken porch pole and one porch tear at the bottom of the fly. Due to the weather it meant that it was impossible to touch camp 3 on the 18th. So four of the team decided to head down to base camp, picking up Evaldas on the way, with five of the Sherpas. The rest of us decided to stay at camp 2 for an extra night of acclimatisation and then headed back down on the 19th. We are now enjoying some rest days at BC. Soon the Sherpas will make another rotation up the mountain to rig towards camp 4 and then we will head up for our summit bid, but in the meantime we will keep an eye on the weather. 15th October Stu phoned in to say that the team were all at camp 1 after moving up the fixed lines today. Tomorrow they will try to touch camp 2. 13th October Today the team walked up to 5200m, where they refreshed their ice axe, abseiling and jumar skills. They are looking forward to their puja tomorrow, with a plan to walk up to the start of the fixed lines after it. 12th October Team AIV (Annapurna IV) are now at a very luxurious base camp 4818m. The Sherpa team have really done themselves proud with a lovely mess tent, shower and individual sleeping tents with thick matress, pillow and towel waiting for us on arrival. Stuart Peacock (SVM) - 17 July 2020 Stuart Peacock, Andrei Kuznetzov, Jorge Egocheaga, Johannes Siebert, Edward Skipper, Steven Marin reached 6500m on 27 Oct. Expedition abandoned due to very high risk of avalanche across the face to get to our planned C4. Snow was too deep to get on to the ridge. During the whole expedition we only experienced one night of bad weather, which is when we were at C2 for the first time. Other than that there was very little new snow, but the snow conditions left from the monsoon made the route above 6500m very dangerous. No other teams were on the mountain, so our sherpas fixed everything, using over 6km of rope, starting from 5000m to our high point. Emergency oxygen for medical use only (nobody required it).
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Makalu Adventure
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2462648
Year 2019
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw ridge

Members

17 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Stuart Christopher Peacock M 1972 UK Leader Kendal, Cumbria, England Expedition leader Details Other expeditions
Andrei Kuznetsov M 1968 Russia Deputy Leader Ekaterinburg, Russia Expedition leader Details Other expeditions
Francois-Alexandre Austin M 1966 UK Climber Henley on Thames, Oxford, England Management consulting Details Other expeditions
Evaldas Bogusis M 1982 UK Climber Carluke, South Lanarkshire, Scotland Clinical pharmacist Details Other expeditions
Jorge Egocheaga Rodriguez M 1968 Spain Climber Oviedo, Asturias, Spain Physician & alpinist Details Other expeditions
Steven Marin M 1961 UK Climber Beverley, E Yorkshire, England Fire safety advisor Details Other expeditions
Isabelle Moneke F 1985 Germany Climber Freiburg, Baden-Wuerttemberg, Germany Thoracic surgery resident Details Other expeditions
John Nigel Robson M 1961 UK Climber Durham, England Lecturer & outdoor retail assistant Details Other expeditions
Upendra Madhav Shevgaonkar M 1968 USA Climber Santa Clara, California IT analyst Details Other expeditions
Johannes Sebastian Siebert M 1984 Germany Climber Bavaria, Germany Finance Details Other expeditions
Edward David Skipper M 1976 UK Climber Zug, Switzerland Accountant Details Other expeditions
Dasange Sherpa M 1987 Nepal H-A Worker Waku-9, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Lakpa Sherpa M 1982 Nepal H-A Worker Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Nurbu Sherpa M 1975 Nepal H-A Worker Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Phurba Ongel Sherpa M 1981 Nepal H-A Worker Sedua, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Phurba Wangchhu Sherpa M 1975 Nepal H-A Worker Waku-9, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Phursemba (Phur Temba) Sherpa M 1979 Nepal H-A Worker Robesa, Makalu-5, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN419301 - - https://www.adventurepeaks.com/annapurna-iv-expedition-5th-october-2019/ - - -