Annapurna IV | 2009 NW Ridge

A Bangladesh expedition to Annapurna IV in 2009 via NW Ridge, led by Mohammad Musa Ibrahim. Summit reached on 14th June 2009. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 6330
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN409201
Peak ID ANN4
Year 2009
Season 2
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Bangladesh
Leaders Mohammad Musa Ibrahim
Sponsor North Alpine Club of Bangladesh Expedition to Annapurna IV
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 33rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed True
Countries Nepal
Approach Besisahar->Jagat->Danaki->Chame->Hongde
Basecamp Date 2009-06-03
Summit Date 2009-06-14
Summit Time 1154
Summit Days 11
Total Days 12
Termination Date 2009-06-15
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7525
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 1600
Total Members 3
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 3
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/06,4600m),C1(11/06,5400m),C2(13/06,6650m),Smt(14/06)
Route Notes Fixed rope: 1600m between C1 and C2 and some part above C2. Hossain, Ibrahim, Sarin, Som, Ganesh and Kailash started at 2:30 am on 14 June from C2. The team reached summit at about 11:54 am, stayed on summit for about 15 minutes and descended to BC where they reached at 8 pm. The weather on summit day was good at the beginning. The weather started to become cloudy from 7300m till the top, for some time it was completely white-out. The team returned to Kathmandu on 20 June and trying to leave on 25 June. Nepali Member: Sarin Prakash Pradhan, (10/04/80), Ason Tole-15, Tansen, Palpa Hired: Som Bahadur Tamang, 53 yrs, c 24/6/31, Kanku-5, Solu Ganesh Bahadur Rana Magar, 53 yrs, 20/3/57, Kerung-8, Solu Kailash Tamang, 13/2/82 (2/11/2038), Kanku-5, Solu, Everest 15/5/07 This ascent has been disputed by multiple sources from Bangladesh (see following commentary): Rahman Mohammad Mustafizur - 25 May 2010 (by email) Dear Sir/Madam One Bangladeshi name Mr. Musa Ibrahim claimed that he climbed Mount Everest (North Col) on 23rd May 2010.  Mr. Iswari Paude of Himalayan Guides Nepal, Treks & Expedition Pvt. Ltd. Tel.: 4268211, 4260205 is claimed the organizer of his climb. But we didn't find any clue anywhere that support his claim!! I personally checked the 23rd May climb list where I didn't find his or that companies name. Your support providing any information regarding this will be highly appreciated. Also please note that we found his/his group name in your list "Annapurna IV Ascents - Summer 2009" later inquired as false. Regards Rahman Mohammad Mustafizur Director Inpace Management Services Limited Phone: 8802 9127062, 8802 8119536 Fax: 8802 8124715 Mobile: 880 1711 530016 Richard Salisbury - 25 May 2010 (response to above email) A couple of points about Muntasir Imran's comment: (1) Chame would most likely be the closest location for transmitting reports to the outside world. This does not mean that all of the reports were written there, but could have been sent there by a messenger. So a report from base camp could have been sent to Chame and then dated June 9, the day of transmission. (2) It is a reasonable 3-day walk from Annapurna IV BC to Chame going downhill. If Ibrahim left BC on the morning of June 16, he easily could be in Chame on June 18. I was on this trail myself in 1991. The Daily Star - 18 June 2009 (Musa Ibrahim, from Chame, Nepal) Bangladeshis Conquer Mt Annapurna IV Musa Ibrahim, a sub-editor of The Daily Star, and Tawhid Hossain hold the Bangladesh flag along with other climbers at the peak of Annapurna IV, which they conquered without supplementary oxygen. Photo: STAR It was 11:54am Nepalese time on June 14. Two Bangladeshi mountaineers achieved a feat many compatriots dreamt of. Musa Ibrahim and Tawhid Hossain conquered the Mt Annapurna IV, a Himalayan peak at the height of 24,682ft, as first Bangladeshis without supplementary oxygen after tremendous hardship. They were accompanied by Nepalese climber Sarin Prakash Pradhan. All three are members of the North Alpine Club Bangladesh (NACB). There was shivering cold with 2-3 degrees Celsius, mighty wind, continuous snowfall and whiteout. And there were chances of falling into crevasse and avalanches, the height and the acute mountain sickness. But teamwork was the key factor that beat all odds. Sherpa Sardar Som Bahadur Tamang, Ganesh Magar and two-time Everest climber Sherpa Kailash Tamang were in the lead to set the route from camps one and two to the summit. High altitude cook Tashi Tamang and porter Sardar Dawa Tamang were the next great help in achieving the feat. A support team of 22 porters and three sherpas had started the journey from Kathmandu on May 29, the day that commemorates Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay's climbing the Mt Everest. The team reached the Annapurna IV base camp at 15,091ft height on June 03. The three NACB members reached the base camp on June 08. The sherpas established camp one at a height of 17,716 ft on June 06 and camp two at a height of 21,817ft on June 08. After resting on June 09, the NACB team moved for camp one on June 11. Having a training on climbing rock and ice the team reached camp two the next day. It was approximately 2:30am on June 14 when the final ascent to the top of Annapurna IV started. The six-member team moved with headlamps and full climbing gears. But the team got stuck halfway from camp two to the summit as all of a sudden a 6 ft crevasse gaped ahead of them. The sherpas had to open a new route. Climbers had nothing to do but wait for around two hours, standing on an ice wall of 60 degrees gradient and braving snowfall with strong wind. Finally, group leader Musa Ibrahim--a sub-editor of The Daily Star, Tawhid Hossain and Sarin Prakash Pradhan reached the summit of Annapurna IV at a height of 24,682ft without supplementary oxygen. They flew the Bangladesh national flag as a new history for Bangladesh was recorded. Another group of NACB, consisting of Dhrubo Jyoti Ghosh Mukul, MH Jaiedi Tusher, Abdul Halim, Munira Farzana Tania and Sk Badruddin Omar, finished the amazing Annapurna Circuit trek that started on May 29. The NACB team is supposed to reach Kathmandu on June 20 and Dhaka on June 25. Navana Group was the title sponsor for the NACB's endeavour. Mattra, Summit Group, Kohinoor Chemicals, and Destiny Group co-sponsored the trekking while Channel i was its media partner. Incitaa Tourism and Muktinath Holiday's Pvt Ltd were the event partners. Internat comment to above article - Thursday, June 18, 2009 09:56 AM Muntasir Mamun Imran I am really happy to learn about the endeavor they made with the name of Bangladesh. As I love mountains I know that every summit has a sheer pain and joy like giving birth of a child! I am really surprised to see that our mountaineer claimed they have started their summit push on 14th June 2:30am and reached the crest in a same day from a height of 21,817 ft even they had to face troublesome crevasse on the way to summit! I really wonder how fast the team could climb at that altitude so that they have reached to the top only in few days from Basecamp. As far as the route is concern its a dedicated 16 to 20 days climbing route for the summit of Annapurna IV (from BC to BC). Again the time our mountaineer has chosen to start their bid it was quite optimistic. Since from the classic Annapurna I French expedition (1950) which was the first ever successful expedition to any 8000, expedition leader Maurice Herzog was about to killed due to the delayed of the climbing period as monsoon has already out broke. Climbing in Annapurna region is not at all suitable during monsoon even then our mountaineers could tackle their fate and climbed the mighty mountain with that very short span of time! For this mountain a standard itinerary says it takes nearly 40 days from the start to end including 16-20 days climbing period from Basecamp to Basecamp and establishing 3 or more camps after the Basecamp. Another article has been published in DS on 9 June 2009 reported by the same person from the same place where from he wrote today's report. But in this report he said they have reached to Basecamp on 8 June. My question is how does he do that? As far the standard itinerary is concerns Chame is far away from the Basecamp (BC) which will take nearly another 3 days (Day 05: Besisahar - Nagdi | Day 06: Nagdi - Jagat | Day 07: Jagat - Tal | Day 08: Tal - Chame | Day 09: Chame - Pisang | Day 10: Pisang - Sabji Khola | Day 11: Sabji Khola - Annapurna 4 th Base camp) to reach to the BC. In a same way how fast does he decent to Chame and write this report within 4 days after the summit? And how can the team reached to BC on 8th and write a report from Chame on 9th? Another thing, reporter Mr. Musa Ibrahim have mentioned that the other team of 5 have successfully finished the amazing Annapurna Circuit trek but as I know Mr. Dhrubo Jyoti Ghosh-who is still in Nepal and other members of the team came back to Dhaka before completing the course- MH Jaiedi Tusher (team member of the trekking team) confirmed. Few days ago we have found another interesting article in The Daily Prothom Alo regarding mountaineering in Bangladesh, where it was clearly written previous expedition lead by the same person who lead this expedition. That article was written by his team member and also he was member of the most of the expeditions claimed successful summit without reaching to the top. Years back after claiming successful summit of Mt. Chulu West, he wrote many articles to many news papers but after some days he has published the real story of the expedition, where he confess they could not summit that peak but claimed that instantly due to media manic behavior. After this summit ISPR wrote a complain letter after their news expressing some facts about heights mountains ever climbed by any Bangladesh till that day. But they tactful managed that complain. Mahbud Azad - 1 October 2010 (by email) Dear Ms. Hawley, I want to begin with a salute for the amazing documentation you have been administering for decades. A curious case arose to which I want to draw your attention. Musa Ibrahim from Bangladesh claimed to have summited Annapurna-IV on June 14, 2009. Here is a short description of his expedition for your perusal, written by himself: http://www.thedailystar.net/newDesign/news-details.php?nid=93071 (this article is printed above) Musa Ibrahim had made summit claims earlier, which were dubitable, and at least 2 of them have been proved to be untrue. He claimed a certificate from NMA for Chulu West, without having summited [he admitted it in one of his articles written in Bengali], and claimed another for Langsisa Ri for having summited on December 01, 2008 which he did not actually achieve [admitted by his fellow climber] [Mir Shamsul Alam Baboo (see below)]. Annapurna-IV is a difficult peak, and in mid-June, it is also challenging. I have discussed with other teams who have tried to scale this peak, but failed, and they have opined that it is nearly impossible to summit this peak within 4 days. Musa wrote that he and his two fellow climbers [without any mountaineering training] left the base camp on 11th for camp-1 [17,716 ft] and camp-2 [21,817 ft] on 12th. Members of other expeditions that attempted this peak before, mentioned that this is nearly impossible for Annapurna-IV. One of his fellow trekkers [Mr. Dhruba Jyoti Ghosh (see below)], who helped to pitch the first camp, mentioned in an interview that they had no ladder, and without that, bridging the crevasses was impossible. Musa also mentioned that his Sherpas pitched camp-2 on June-8th, is another false statement, attested by his fellow trekker who were at the base camp on June 8th with the Sherpas. Without any ladder, how could they even pitch camp-2 at an altitude of 21,817 ft? Besides, the route is so difficult that climbers usually make 3 camps, and intermediate camps in between. Apparently, they did not care to acclimatize, and just kept moving on [with two mountaineers, who are from Bangladesh at sea-level altitude and one of them suffering from severe headache due to altitude] and bagged the peak like an apple. The pictures they showed to media were certainly dubitable, and do not feature any of the geographical signs expected around a peak. Musa Ibrahim covered every expedition with one common guide named Som Bahadur Tamang, who testified for the false claim of summiting Chulu West and Langsisa Ri, as well as in Annapurna-IV. I request you to take these facts into account, and if you have little time, express your opinion on these facts. Please let me know if you want to examine his summit pictures. Have a nice weekend. Best regards, Mahbub Azad Kassel, Germany Statement by Mr. Dhruba Jyoti Ghosh - 4 October 2010 (by email from Mahbub Azad) SOLO ANNAPURNA TRAIL TREKKING, ANNAPURNA-4 B.c. & C-1 & CROSS THORUNG LA PASS I, Dhrubajyoti Ghosh Mukul, join with Annapurna-4 Expn. 2010 during pre-mansoon, but I can't perticipat as a climbing member. Seperetly I took permisson from Nepal Government's tourism authority of Annapurna Conservation Area Unit Conservation Office Bhujung VDC, Lamjung, on 29th May 2009. My Entry Permit no.66 dtd. 29.05.09. I got a permit for solo trek on Annapurna trail & B.c., Camp-1 of Annapurna-4. On 2 June reach Humde. Stay at night. 3 June departure for B.camp of Annapurna-4, and reach wher expedition's sherpa mate Shom Bahadoor Tamang pitching 4-twomen tent, 2-kitchen tent (1-dining & 1-cooking space). Shom Bahadur allow to use me one tent which was pitched extr. northern side of B.c. 4 June rest day. On that day cheque all mountaineering equibments. I have not seen any Al.ladder which will be used to cross the hazardous way on the crevasse field. At B.c 3-sherpas, 1-porter met. 2-cook mets & myself only stay in. 5 June: all sherpa members & myself going to camp-1 to rekky & dumping on NE cwm near to rock buttres wher we have seen abanden camping materials of previous mountaineering team and back to B.c. 6 June Shom, Koilas, Pasang, Ganesh, Ang Kami going up for dumping fix rope, al.pegs, ration, H.A.-tent. I am also going up with them. After noon we back B.c. Porter mate (mail runner) come back from Humde & meet with us at B.c in the evening. On 7 June Sherpas are going to serching way on the Hanging gl. for right way to reach the ride Wher lying three Domal spar point (aprox. 2500ft.-4000ft.) above C-1. I gaze top of the spar long ridge with vast deep snow field going up SW towards the Annapurna-4 peak. Its very tough to catch the ridge with out technical ice craft and with out ladder. Though it's a good mansoon weather. and climbers favourable weather. I can say it's dry mansoon on the Himal. Snow line rise 17,oooft. Gl. are flowing with stone back. Snow diposition are poor due to global warming. Last day at B.c: that is 8 June 2009, sherpas are ready to go up & I am to desending to go Humde for solo trek Annapurna trail (total H.A. Way 325Km.+50 Km.=375Km..) and cross Thorang La (18,000ft. aprox). Its my noble misson. Ater few hours I meet Nepali mountaineer Sargn Ater then Mountaineer Musha and 100ft. back Rajeeb climbing up.in the forest 5Mint.spent friendy & humbly attitude. See of them I asening lonely Jangle Wild way Solo with R.S. load on back. I have not seen L. officer on the way to Humde. I leave Humde on 9 June. March on ward to MuktinatH on 12 June 2009 in the good morn. Alone cross the Thorung La > I am the First Bangladeshi With out porter & guide Solo cross the Thorang La pass. Even Iam first Exotic person, Cross this pass(it's my demand). Trekking long route:Vulvule>Jagat>Dharapani>Barga>Humde>B.cAnnapurna-4 C-1, (5dys.) Humde>Yak kharak>Fadi>U.camp><THORUNG LA12.June>Muktinath Ranipwa>Jomsom>Ghasa>Tatopani>Sikha(upper)>ghorepani><Poone>Nayapool(18 June). Mountaineer Dhrubajyoti Ghosh Mukul, `NANIVILLA'Melandah -2010, Jamalpur, BANGLADESH 04 Sept. 2010. Statement of Mir Shamsul Alam BABOO - 6 October 2010 (by email from Mahbub Azad) Langsisa-Ri Expedition. North Alpine Club, Bangladesh arrange there 1st Mountaineering Expedition in Nepal in 2008. The peck was Langsisa-Ri. Hight 21,081 ft. I was in Langtang area. The Expedition leader is Musa Ibrahim. Member - Towhid Hossain Razib & Rafa Uddin Siraji from NAC, B. Afrin Khan, Rimon Khan & Mir Shamsul Alam Baboo (me) from Team Extreme. Among the Member Musa, Rimon & I have Mountaineering Course. Musa has Basic & Advance Course from HMI. Rimon has Basic Course from HMI. I have Basic, Advance, MOI & S&R Course from HMI & NIM. Afrin also doing lot of trekking in Bangladesh & Everest Base Camp. Other two member Towhid & Rafa has trekking in Bangladesh. We start on 15 November by Air from Dhaka. The agency was Muktinath Holidays. Guide was Som Bahadur Tamang & Gonesh Magar with 9 other Sherpa. Climbing equipment was taken from Bangladesh & Nepal. Before Base Camp after 4 day trek Afrin get sick. If she can get one day full rest then she can go again, But Musa told her to go Back. For that Her brother Rimon also back with her. After reach to Base Camp we take rest of two days & start rope fixing up to Camp-1. Its need 3 more days. I also do the rope fixing. After that on November we move to Camp-1 in 29 of November evening. Next day the Guides want to the Summit route the see the way to Summit. At the evening they came & told us that we can not go up to Summit of Langsisa-Ri because of have crevasses & lack of equipments. In that time we do not have more time & money to stay there for more days. Then Som Bahadur told us that we can go higher ten the Camp-1 & get photo there. The height maybe more then 20500ft. Musa agree to do that, I told Musa that we can go there but we can not claime the summit. He agree to me. Next day on 1 December in morning 6 am we start. At 10 am we reach that place, We took Photo there, I get the height of that point was 20600 ft in my altimeter, which is less then 481 ft of the actual Langsisa-Ri. After Back to Khatmundu & Bangladesh, Musa told everyone that we summit Langsisa-Ri. He told the height of Langsisa-Ri is 20600 ft. But the actual height of the Langsisa-Ri is 21081 ft. Mir Shamsul Alam Baboo
Accidents -
Achievement 1st Bangladeshis on Annapurna IV
Agency World Himalaya Expeditions
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2460066
Year 2009
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Tawhid Hossain M 1980 Bangladesh Climber Mulkhana, Narail, Bangladesh Web designer Details Other expeditions
Mohammad Musa Ibrahim M 1979 Bangladesh Leader Dhaka, Bangladesh Journalist Details Other expeditions
Sarin Prakash Pradhan M 1980 Nepal Climber Ason Tole-15, Tansen, Palpa - Details Other expeditions
Som Bahadur Tamang M - Nepal H-A Worker Kanku-5, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ganesh Bahadur Rana Magar M 1957 Nepal H-A Worker Kanku-5, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Kailash Tamang M 1982 Nepal H-A Worker Kanku-5, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.